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Thread: Jigsaw blades

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    The makita
    Jigsaw I own has oscillating function on it.
    I've meet two other owners of same saw who had know idea it was there.
    A little lever towards the front right side.
    Which moves to three indents.
    Makes a big difference in cutting quality

    Cheers Matt
    I have the oscillater on 1. probably should have it on 0 for curves.

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  3. #17
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    Incidentally, I have an older Makita. It does not get used much as I have a bandsaw. My main gripe with the jigsaw is that the blades cut roughly. This is due to the excess set on the teeth. What I do is flatten the set with a hammer on an anvil. Note that the main use (when used) are tight curves on hardwood or 3/4" ply. The low/no set teeth work perfectly and leave a cleaner surface.

    Tony, as I wrote earlier, the reason for the quick wear of your blades is most likely the abrasive nature of the wood you are using. You have not stated whether you are using HSS (high speed steel) or HCS (high carbon steel) blades. The latter will wear even faster. Switch to HSS if you are not using them. I very much doubt it has to do with the setting on your jigsaw - that will only affect the finish quality.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #18
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    Using HCS & Bi Metal which I have just broken, took a couple of piccies. Pushing to hard with lots of smoke.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #19
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    Tony, sorry, but this is all wrong. You cannot push a machine that hard and expect a good result. Smoking means burning (self evident) but this also means that you have destroyed the temper of the blade, more than likely. That means the blade will go blunt very quickly, which means you need to push even harder, so the blade gets even more blunt.....rinse and repeat until the machine ends up being thrown against a wall.

    You will either need to get the correct blades for cutting these tight curves and take your time, or maybe cut your way into them by cutting a square, then cut the corners off, then cut those corners off, etc.

    Either that, or as I think someone suggested yesterday, get a bandsaw for this sort of task. If you keep on as you are the jigsaw will be jiggered by tomorrow.
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  6. #20
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    Tony, I agree with Brett - you are using the wrong type of blade. Those are for straight line cutting. You need something with less meat to go around corners. You should also not be pushing hard on the blade - it should cut all by itself. Needing to push hard is saying something is wrong with either the blade sharpness of the teeth or the stroke of the jigsaw (the longer the stroke the better). Teeth need to be for coarse cutting.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
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  7. #21
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    Broke another of the bosch T101AOF brand new out of the packet. I was pushing firmly I suppose but the wood was about 40mm thick mountain ash I think.
    I'm confused on which blade to get after reading the Bosch catalogue.
    Your right about the cornering I was just trying to go to quick.

    Yes I would love a bandsaw. Might have to rejoin the wood club.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Teeth point to back of blades measurements (roughly):
    344 is about 9.5mm, and I assume a 144 is the same but for shallower cuts. They have very aggressive teeth, hence why the straight line cutting icon shows splintering as well.
    T101AO is just under 5mm and much finer teeth which is why they are slow
    T308BOF just over 7mm and with one fine tooth and one coarser tooth.
    And if you still have problems with that then a T101AO just for the curves and do the straight cuts with whatever you like - you can probably rip and bust the straight cuts without problems.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  9. #23
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    Maybe have a look at a carbide tipped blade; they're not cheap but they're much more heat-tolerant. You'll have to do your curves in sections though, I don't believe they come in 'tight corner' versions

  10. #24
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    I'm not so sure that carbide tipped won't snap Elan. Yes the teeth will tolerate the temperature and not go blunt, but the blade is still probably HCS and subject to the same physics as the current blades that are snapping. Although, the snapping may be more a result of the excessive force being applied because of the bluntness, so maybe.....

    In any case I think a bandsaw is the best solution, especially if it will be ongoing.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  11. #25
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    After seeing the pics.
    Maybe a jigsaw is not the best choice.
    Like Brett and others have suggested.
    Maybe a different solution would be a kerfing cut then knock out the waste and trim and smooth the curve cut with a belt sander.
    Granted a bandsaw would be best.
    But not everyone has a bandsaw sometimes we have to work with what we have.

    Cheers Matt

  12. #26
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    Thanks guys, yes I'm using the tools that I have rather than the tools designed for the job. I was just a bit surprised that the blade blunted quicker than I thought.
    With a fresh blade all is well but ive cut 30 spoons and gone through 3 blades. Maybe that's expected as I push very hard.
    I measured the hardwood I was cutting and it was 30 to 35mm. Anything under 20mm seems really easy.

  13. #27
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    Cutting 30 blanks and using 3 blades, I'd say is a pretty good average for the timber and thickness of it. To get a better run out of the blades, DON'T push so hard, let the saw do the work, you're only to guide it. It might take a bit longer, but the effort will be less and the blades will last longer, in turn saving time.
    Kryn
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