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  1. #1
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    Default Makita 18V drill wobble!

    Hi all

    I recently purchased a Makita drill from bunnings: DHP456SYE

    http://www.bunnings.com.au/makita-13...rill-_p6240262

    On getting it out of the box to do some jobs today I was immediately aware that it seemed to be vibrating excessively. I put a long drill bit in it and clearly it is out of true or has "run-out." It is quite obvious to the eye and I am reluctant to use the drill further at this stage.

    My father's 18V Dewalt impact drill also has a degree of run-out which I find excessive. We have a couple of old makitas also which are bang on (these are not impact).

    I want a cordless impact drill, and frequently drill bricks, etc. I have had problems in the past with a drill that has run-out chewing out the holes and making the fixings suboptimal.

    An internet search has indicated to me that this is not an isolated problem with cordless drills.

    Is this issue isolated to impact drills specifically and related to play from the hammer action or is it just a poorly designed chuck?

    Will I have an issue returning the drill to bunnings and asking for my money back?

    Anywone have a suggestion for an decent alternative?

    Thanks in advance!

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  3. #2
    crowie's Avatar
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    If the drill itself still looks new and you have the receipt, for sure I'd take it back to ask for a refund or exchange...
    you may need to make a bit of noise plus a song & dance but a new tool should work as it's designed to work..... drilling, driving or percussion......
    I have a Milwaukee M18 cordless hammer drill along with a Bosch Blue & Wolf corded hammer drill and generally speaking all drill in masonry will as long as the bit is in good order.
    good luck, cheers.

  4. #3
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    Arrow LXPH01 Makita Skin

    Hi,
    I recently bought two Makita drills (skins without battery or charger) for $82.50 each delivered from an eBay "Daily Deal".

    These have hammer function and appear to be identical to the one in your Bunnings link (except that the chucks on mine look cheaper. The plastic outer sleeve is longer than that shown in the link.

    However, they both run true and have had little work as yet.

    I've always used Makita and have committed to the LXT system.

    You got a lemon - return it at once.

  5. #4
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    Just to rule out the bleeding obvious (because it does happen):
    Are you certain the the drill bit itself isn't bent (check in a power drill you know is good)
    Are you certain that you had the bit in the chuck correctly (not mis-clamped between two of the jaws, as can happen with small dia bits)?

    If all good there, then you have a dud, and to be replaced. (you'd hate it if you took it back and it worked perfectly because of one the above happening).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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  6. #5
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    Yes drill is brand new and drill bits are also brand new!

    I have tried multiple bits. It is obviously easier to see with longer bits, but it is even noticeable with a small philips head attachment.

    They are also properly seated in the chuck.

    Looks like this one is going to need to be returned.

    Thanks for the comments so far

  7. #6
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    Yep, take it back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Polizei View Post
    ..drill bits are also brand new!
    I had a brand new 10mm Makita Brad Point (didn't even know they made them until I saw it in the hardware store). Bent like a banana, before it was used.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polizei View Post
    Hi all
    On getting it out of the box to do some jobs today I was immediately aware that it seemed to be vibrating excessively. I put a long drill bit in it and clearly it is out of true or has "run-out."
    Will I have an issue returning the drill to bunnings and asking for my money back?

    Anywone have a suggestion for an decent alternative?

    Thanks in advance!
    I reciently brought the combo brushless makita kit from bunnings. when I took it out of the box the nose of the drill had about 2.5mm play in it maybe even more play in it, I used it to drill a few holes and then decided to return it. I was going to explain the problem and have it replace or swapped; but upon speaking with a friend he told me just to return it. So I did. in original box with reciept. I just told them it was not the tool I wanted. (boy was I telling the truth)
    I went straight back into the tool shop and picked up another makita drill (same model) and it had the same amount of slop at the nose of the chuck; really glad I returned it now!! checked out the dewalt and AEG and ryobi one+ . The AEG (not brushless) bearings felt good, ryobi 2 models- the one in the kit sloppy, the one on display that comes in the bag by itself felt nice. Bosh professional the heavy duty felt nice and tight, the lighter too much slop, dewalt old brush- nice and tight, new brushless model too sloppy.
    I have to replace the makita I brought, not sure what I will do. Sloppy head bearings will cause drills to drill oversize and small drills to break. it is rubbish to see this quality in drills that are in this price range.
    I spoke to a Makita rep about it at the beyond tools big EOFY sale and he said 1. that drill is aimed at the handyman 2 the drills sold in bunnings are different stuff.

    I am both a tradesman (with papers) and a handyman. As a handyman I used to work fulltime in building maintenance, this year as a "home" handyman I have remodelled a kitchen- built my own custon cabinets, sheeted a roof and flashed it, built a campervan interior (not finished) and a ton of little jobs. I am not impressed by tool manifacturers using "handyman" aimed products as an excuse for expensive junk. If I want cheap tools I will buy cheap tools, If I am paying $400 dollars for a makita drill and driver (with tiny 1.3 amp batteries) I do not want a tool that comes already flogged out!!
    The little brushless driver that cam in the kit seemed a gem (tested it in some railway sleepers) I have the makita corded driver. I think the brushless driver may possibly better than the old model, but definatly as good.

    If I decide to buy dewalt i will definatly buy the brushed drill not the brushless as the head bearings are sloppy on the one I looked at.

    ps. by slop I mean side to side, not backward to forward as many hammer drills will move alot there.

    I would like to hear from owners as to the problems with there cordless tools. Some felt like the batteries may start to become a bit loose. How is the bearings? have they become a bit looser?

    As I am planning to go back to work soon, I do a bit of roofing, I do not really want the heavy duty model. the other makits drills I have used are not sloppy like this one. Maybe the new brushless DC technology only works with cheap sloppy bearings left over from barbie rollerskates?? anyhow, I was thinking of going against the grain and might have a look at a dewalt 10.8 kit, just not sure how the driver will go with long tech screws into hardwood? anyone got one and screwed into jarrah, my makita will shear the bolt no problem (only when I test it ).

  9. #8
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    Brushless tech has advantages and disadvantages:

    They have less moving parts, less friction, and generate less heat. In cordless tools this translates to longer runtime, or more work accomplished for a given energy input (greater efficiency); less charge cycles which MAY translate into greater battery & tool longevity.

    But they AFAIK still can't better conventional brushed motors in terms of peak output power and torque. You typically see brushless motors in the sort of tools that don't require high torque outputs: Impact drivers, light drills, SDS hammers and the like. I've yet to see any brushless Grinders, Circular Saws or genuinely heavy duty drills.

    In contrast to the hype, there's a question mark over some tool's longevity. The only brushless tool I've owned (an SDS hammer) has done some 15,000 holes, or about 2 kilometers of drilling in high density structural concrete and concrete brick before failure! This failure, however, was in the gears and pneumatic mechanism and not the motor however, meaning that the drill has performed well above expectations. I have therefore had an excellent run from my one and only brushless tool.

    By contrast, my tool repairer has literally bins of Milwaukee "Fuel" brushless tools that have failed under warranty. He, needless to say, is less than impressed with these tools. The entire motor: coils, armature etc. requres a swap out for repair! Makita's brushless impact drivers by contrast, are ultra reliable.

    I've also noticed in extreme high torque tools, such as an 18v Metabo Circular saw I once had, they actually use 4 brushes to compensate for the low energy available in the 18v platform. Quad brushes improve the rotating force in the same way that 3 phase AC is more torquey than single phase.
    Sycophant to nobody!

  10. #9
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    Quick update...

    I ended up going for a Milwaukee 18V M18 series hammer drill. To be honest there is just as much runout in the chuck of this drill as there was in the makita. With small diameter drill bits it isn't such an issue, but when drilling larger holes in steel or using hammer to punch through concrete you find the wobble is significant and chews the holes out. Perhaps I am expecting too much, but either way I am not impressed. I bought the Milwaukee from Adelaide Tools and they seem to think that you can't expect too much from a $300 drill. Is it too much to ask for a true chuck at this price?

  11. #10
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    No it's not!

    Additionally, I don't think your retailer should be an apologist for low quality East Asian manufacture either. S/he wouldn't be significantly out of pocket with any manufacturer/distributor returns. Instead they might turn you into a loyal customer by providing a form of attentive service.

    You're quite entitled to be provided a good or service that is "suitable for the intended use" in accordance with the Trade Practises and Sale of Goods Acts.

    If any good or service isn't up to snuff you're entitled to a serviceable or satisfactory replacement or a refund. Even compensation for losses incurred!

    It's the law.
    Sycophant to nobody!

  12. #11
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    ("I want a cordless impact drill, and frequently drill bricks, etc. I have had problems in the past with a drill that has run-out chewing out the holes and making the fixings suboptimal.")


    A lot of my work has been in surface mounting in masonry too. I usually use 5mm Hilti plugs & 25mm x 7 gauge needle nosed screws as they just seem to work better as a combination than the hardware store plugs or spaghetti. In very soft substrates (such as colonial and convict brick) I prefer to use a multi-purpose TCT bit. These are ground without any back relief on the edges, unlike conventional hammer bits. This gives sufficient "bite" in brick, and are always used WITHOUT the hammer function. The Krauts make most of them; sold as Bosch, Artu, Metabo and other makes but most probably all out of the same factory.

    I usually present the fitting to the wall, mark, remove and drill: carefully, and with only just enough depth (I use a bit of tape on the bit as a rough depth gauge) to ensure the plug isn't completely buried. I mount the plug on the screw, the screw and plug assembly to the screwdriver, and with a smart smack from the heel on my hand push the assembly through the fitting and into the wall, not too deep so that there's little chance of the plug disappearing. The little flare on the back of the Hilti plugs assists here in preventing deep burial, and catches on the fitting to prevent turning with the 7 gauge screw. The slender 5mm profile of the plugs allows them to be relatively easily forced through the holes of electrical fittings etc.

    Deeper or more weight loaded mounting will probably require Dynabolts or the like, but the same rule of drilling with multi-purpose TCT bits without hammer still applies in softer substrates.

    Works for me (almost) every time.
    Sycophant to nobody!

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polizei View Post
    Quick update...

    I ended up going for a Milwaukee 18V M18 series hammer drill. To be honest there is just as much runout in the chuck of this drill as there was in the makita. With small diameter drill bits it isn't such an issue, but when drilling larger holes in steel or using hammer to punch through concrete you find the wobble is significant and chews the holes out. Perhaps I am expecting too much, but either way I am not impressed. I bought the Milwaukee from Adelaide Tools and they seem to think that you can't expect too much from a $300 drill. Is it too much to ask for a true chuck at this price?
    I'd be taking it back and asking for a better drill...... a Milwaukee 18V M18 series hammer drill for $300 should be a better quality than what you've described...
    It maybe ever worth shotting an email to the Australian Milwaukee importer....... Milwaukee Power Tools - Nothing but Heavy Duty
    The brand generally has a good name in the trade and I'm sure they'd want to help keep it that way...Cheers, crowie

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    I'd be taking it back and asking for a better drill...... a Milwaukee 18V M18 series hammer drill for $300 should be a better quality than what you've described...
    It maybe ever worth shotting an email to the Australian Milwaukee importer....... Milwaukee Power Tools - Nothing but Heavy Duty
    The brand generally has a good name in the trade and I'm sure they'd want to help keep it that way...Cheers, crowie
    Make sure you let us know how you went with Milwaukee Australia; it'd be interesting to hear there response plus the blokes at Adelaide Tools need a rev-up for talking the Milwaukee brand down.......cheers

  15. #14
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    Admittedly I'm dredging up an old thread here but in my search for issues with Makita drills I came across this thread so I thought I'd throw in my 2c.

    I got one of the brushless combos last Christmas and quite quickly the drill developed a lot of slop in the head. Almost as if the chuck has come loose but the problem is further back in the body of the drill.

    Bit dissapointing because all my other Makita stuff has been great (not that it gets trade use or anything).

    I need to get it back before I run out of warranty.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by browny View Post
    the drill developed a lot of slop in the head. Almost as if the chuck has come loose but the problem is further back in the body of the drill.

    Bit dissapointing because all my other Makita stuff has been great (not that it gets trade use or anything).

    I need to get it back before I run out of warranty.
    Sure it wasn't there from the start?
    It's a real shame they scrimped on the drill as the makita I brought felt really nice in hand. The brushless motor seemed great and had the best battery life of anything I had used to date.
    I ended up getting a brilliant price on a AEG brushed kit with drill, impact driver, multi-tool and torch all for less the just the drill and driver normally. I imediatley brought the 3/8 angle ratched head for the multi tool. no-where near as good my air ratchet, but much quieter.
    They are only selling the BSB18C; the 'c' standing for compact. so the outer chuck is plastic and all over lighter than the original released BSB18. But at least it dosnt flop around like a saggy &^$%.The torch is a bit of a gimic but better than a radio for me (in reality who wants to rip a battery off of a drill etc to power a torch or a radio?) That said I have been using the torch a bit lol.

    The drill/impactdriver/radio kits can still be found in bunnings for $329 Brushed, I dont think I would choose that at this price?

    I dont think any of the brushed stuff can get the battery life that the newer brushless can get.

    If you have the cash take back your kit and exchange it + cash for the real Makita kit

    AEG are giving a 6 year warranty which is a real worry.

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