Thread: Makita Slinding Compound Saw Clones

And this is the photo of the Makita clone ... avaliable at discount tools and go tools web site

And finally the Carbatec clone for $495.00


http://svc010.bne011i.server-web.com....html?cache=no

When i checked out the clone at Carbatec, the slide was good, but not quite as smooth as the Makita (but still no problem) and the drop-down action on the clone was certainly not as smooth and easy as the Makita. So I'm guessing there are a few cheaper components on the insides of these clones, but hey, for half the price I think it would still be a good deal

Bought the TWM version two years ago - earlier model so looks slightly different. Have given it a flogging building decks from hardwood. No complaints, especially for the price. Still cuts true. The safety shield sticks a little, and the twin sliding bars need a regular spray of WD40, but that's all.

Hope that helps.

Two years ago or was it 18 months ago I looked at the Makita and the imitations.

I seem to believe the Makita may have slid and dropped smoother but I wonder whether I would have thought that if there was no markings on the machines, the blind taste test.

In the end I borrowed one.

Although I do not need one now its on the wish list.

I'm waiting for the laser site should be a model away.

Take the digital camera to the shop, photo both saws from every angle then post them "spot the difference".

I would think Makita is rather annoyed at just how good the copies have become especially if they come off the same factory product line.

The clone is on the money; go to the store check the slide action and the drop action or anything else once satisfied and buy that one, not the one in the box.

Enjoy

Pulpo

I just had a browse through the Timbercon 2002 cattledog. I'm pretty sure they also sell the same clone under their Sherwood brand for about $500. The copy even refers to their product as "a popular design"...

I just received the Aug/Sep supplement from Timbecon and the Sherwoods are $479 (10 inch) and $579 (12 inch)

Thank you for all the feedback everyone. Even though the clones Do look good I think I will still end up going for the Makita LS1013 A few of reasons...

1: Well known brand.
2: Ease of replacement parts.
3: Good re-sale value.
4: Local servicing.

I possibly would think different if I was close by to the store were the "clone" was purchased But I live in rural/regional NSW and because of this It can some times be a real drama working with distant businesses.

Well thanks again for all the info ...It certainly helps with the decision

Doorstop

It's allways good to get positive conformation of one's dessicion from an "expert such as your self. I'll sleep easier tonight
Thanks

have just bought another makita,LS1212,already have a LS1013,have had the latter for over 3 years,and it's helped to build 6 houses,and about 500 metres of timber flooring.It's had a hell of a hard life with other heavy handed tradies using it but it still cuts true.
My new LS1212 I have only owned for around a month,and it's absolutley delux,it hasn't had such a rough time as yet,but I'm sure that is to come.
Before buying the new saw I did extensive reseach on all of the saws,after cruising the net talking to other tradies and hobbyists alike,and having spoken to reputable store owners with trade backgrounds.I came to the conclusion that the clones are great for hobbyists but that is as far as they go,cause if you treat the clone saws as I do my makita I'm sure they could not keep up the pace,and as parts are not readily availble for the clones,one could reflect on whether the smaller outlay for a clone could have gone towards a saw with more of a proven track record.
In my opinion it all comes down to actually feeling the action of the saw's and knowing what you really want the saw to do for you,sorry if I bored you all.

I was just down at the Perth woodshow yesterday and walked past a stand where someone was demonstrating one of those makita clones.

It was a new saw but sounded to me like the bearings were already stuffed and in need of replacement.

My chippy mates makita one doesn't make thse sort of noises.

Its a bit like the gmc and dewalt bisuit jointers, you know who gmc have copied but try to adjust the fence on the gmc and then do it on a dewalt, there is a difference. I bought the gmc because of the price but have probably spent another $100 in time on getting the dammed thing set up accurately.

Darryn

One of these days I may just purchase a SCMS. My justisification (do I need one?) is that I still have a great deal of general building to do around the house (such as a garden shed that will house all the garden tools that are presently in the garage, so making more room for the REAL tools).

I did look at the clones (10" and 12") at Timbercon. Frankly, I couldn't live with the colour (orange), unless I wore sunglasses in my workshop.

OK, here's the point of this note: one of the reasons for having a SCMS instead of just a CMS is that I would use it to make joints (tenons, laps, etc). This requires the slide to work smoothly and be steady, and it requires the blade to have a height adjuster (and that this be easy to use).

The clone I saw (the 10" and the 12" are identical save for size), did NOT have a user-friendly height adjuster. In fact, when I asked the salesperson (a young lad) where it was, he hunted around, then said the saw did not have one at all! I searched and did find a bolt head that adjusted the height. It was tucked away, clearly not meant to be adjusted on a regular basis (probably just the once when you set up the machine in your shop after purchase). I'm not sure if one could modify it (e.g. add a butterfly to the end).

Does the Makita have the same limitation? Can an experienced SCMS user comment on this fitting on other such saws.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, I've got the Makita 10" SCMS and it has an adjuster located on the left hand side near the pivot point. (It's in "the Shed", 50M away so I'm going off memory here). It has a butterfly end and can be pivotted out of the way. Ie: you can make your reduced depth cuts, pivot the stop out of the way, make a full depth cut and then pivot it back into place to continue cutting your tenons or whatever. You do need to have a pretty even hand though as if you vary the pressure there will be discrepancies in the depth of cut, maybe in the order of 3~4mm total. The old Makita 10" which is also being ripped off has a very unweildy depth stop located on the top, just behind the pivot point. You use the blade spanner/socket to loosen a bolt and then slide a stop forward, after which you need to tighten the bolt up again. It takes a lot of mucking around to get it right and you can't switch between it and full depth cuts. I had the old model for over ten years and I think I might have used this feature half a dozen times at most.

Mick

Mick (and all)

Perhaps the clone on sale is a copy of the "old" Makita 10"? Your description certainly sounds as if this is the case. Or perhaps there are different clones around, that is , copies of the "new" and the "old". The one I saw was at Timbercon. I have not studied the one at Carba-tec.

Mick, I do not see the SCMS as a tool for fine woodworking. I have doubts that the slide mechanisms are stable enough to make really accurate joints (good enough for framing, which is where my primary interest lies). My perception is that my sliding tablesaw is more accurate than a SCMS would ever be. Can you comment on this.

Regards from Perth

Derek