Thread: Morse Taper problem

Graeme clean the arbour and the inside of the quill .
Rub chalk on the arbour and the push into the quill a light tap is all that is needed.
The arbour and the quill have become polished due to the arbour slipping from time to time and has lost its grip. By using the chalk it give it a bit of abrasiveness to grip again.

Mine started playing up with the same thing a few months ago; seeing Jim's solution makes me feel like a dolt. In hindsight 'tis so obvious.

I used red loctite, which solved the problem but now I'll have to heat the quill if I ever want to remove the taper... :eek:

I like the chalk idea too. When its happened to me I've just belted it a bit harder (with a block of wood between). I read somewhere just to lower the quill down onto wood to push the chuck in but that never held it securely enough.

If it comes to the worst, they do make morse taper reamers.

Not cheap mind you. :eek:

graemet
Just a couple of questions
You say you are using a Wasp Sander , something I am not familar with ,
are you removing your chuck to fit this
If so does it have a tang on the end ot the taper you insert , stopping it from turning in the taper
Is this wasp unit a belt sander if so is the idler wheel possibly been altered and now set to low causing downward pull as well as side thrust

In my experiance for morse tapers to start to drop after long use with no apparent change in operating procedure it's because its been damaged , dropped and there is a bruse or bump on the trper and it is not in contact over 90% + of its sleeve surface

If you can apply bearing blue to the taper insert and check for contact after a LIGHT tap
Take off any raised spots with fine wet and dry on a smooth file
Re test until 70 + % contact 90 + fore preference

or as Tankstand says you can get reamers

Do not endorse hitting it in harder or Loctite
Espically loctite as it can cause slight ofcenter of sleeve and is a bastard to get it all out of the sleeve , espically a small taper




Rgds
Russell





Useless infomation for the day


Man who farts in church sit in his own pew.

Thanks Jim, definitely worth a try. The taper is VERY polished.
Russell, the WASP is a belt sander which is one of the best inventions I have come across - the driving drum fits into the chuck, so the chuck is never removed. The blue idea is a good one which I will pursue before I try the chalk.
Thanks everyone,for the responses.
Cheers,
Graeme

graemet
If you haven't been removing chuck ie the taper and its now starting to drop out then check that the idler drum is at the right height or set it a little high
and that you have the paper the right way up and is not trying to track down.

In my experiance there is always a reason for something to start happening

Do you always use a drift ( a tapered steel wedge driven into the slot at the top of the taper) to remove the chuck and not hit the chuck itself.






Useless infomation for the day

Man who farts in church sit in his own pew.

I tried the prussian blue on the chuck arbor and found that it was only touching the quill at the bottom 10mm. So I bit the bullet and bought a morse taper reamer this morning from McJing. I figured that as the arbour and the reamer came from the same source, there was a good probability that they were compatible. Anyway, a few minutes work and I had contact for 30mm and at least for now I can't get the thing to let go. The reamer was $38 which I calculated at less than the cost of a new drill press, or even a spare part if they still make them for my Hamilco.
Thanks for all the interest.
Cheers,
Graeme

Hi Graeme,

I'm using a new Timbecon Light duty drill press and am having the same problem. What type is yours?

Chris

Chris,
Mine is an old Hamilco that I bought second hand about 5 years ago, it must be 30 years old at least. I put a new keyless chuck on it just after I bought it
Cheers,
Graeme.

Originally Posted by Ashore

Do not endorse hitting it in harder or Loctite
Espically loctite as it can cause slight ofcenter of sleeve and is a bastard to get it all out of the sleeve , espically a small taper

Believe me, I don't endorse it either. I'm really not looking forward to when I need to remove the taper...

Originally Posted by graemet

So I bit the bullet and bought a morse taper reamer this morning from McJing

Now you can rent it out for a modest fee to recoup the outlay!

No doubt other wasp users will have a need for it oneday!

(Your not really meant to apply side loading to morse tapers)

Or should I say (Before I get hounded ) that's not what they were designed for even though most people will never have a problem depending upon the quality of their machinery.

Originally Posted by Tankstand

(Your not really meant to apply side loading to morse tapers)

Or should I say (Before I get hounded ) that's not what they were designed for even though most people will never have a problem depending upon the quality of their machinery.

I guess that I will need the reamer again, then, for my Nova lathe which has #2 morse tapers in both head and tail stocks - turning anything of finite diameter will put a side loading on the shaft!

From my experiment with the prussian blue, it would seem to have been a problem with the original quill taper as it was not contacting at the narrow end. If the side loading was causing distortion, I would expect it to expand the mouth of the socket.

Cheers,
Graeme

Originally Posted by graemet

From my experiment with the prussian blue, it would seem to have been a problem with the original quill taper as it was not contacting at the narrow end. If the side loading was causing distortion, I would expect it to expand the mouth of the socket.

Cheers,
Graeme

Yes Graeme, from the sounds of it, it is possible your taper wasn't machined correctly in the first place!?

I do hope your chinese reamer is accurate! :eek: