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  1. #211
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Over there a bit
    Age
    17
    Posts
    2,511

    Default

    So far the only thing I've bought for it are some magnets to help align the blades on changeover as per Zed's video.

    Next will be to track down some better blades.

    I'm not saying anything has been upgraded to better quality regarding bearings etc., just mine is all goodder.
    Boring signature time again!

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  3. #212
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    945

    Default

    Thanks outback, lets hope I am as lucky as you have been. I am overall happy with the quality of the machine. I do not have the space for two separate machines so it was a no brainer for me. It is also significantly less noisy than my old GMC thicknesser which is a major bonus.

    I will be trying out the thicknesser over the weekend, it may need some alignment.

    The fence may well be a problem for chamfering as it is not perfectly flat but it does a good job of jointing.

    regards

    Marios
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  4. #213
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Over there a bit
    Age
    17
    Posts
    2,511

    Default

    Good luck with the fence, they are a dodgy piece of gear, follow the advice above about packing, shimming, swearing and hitting. I was lucky, mine was straight, it is just a poor system they use for alignment, neccesiatating a full realignment each time it is removed and replaced.
    Boring signature time again!

  5. #214
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    945

    Default

    Ok here it is, a summary of my impresions of the AW106 so far...


    I have used the jointer for a few days and I am very happy with it, I did not need to make any adjustments to the tables at all. The fence needs to be checked every time you move it but adjustment is quick. Extraction on the jointer is near perfect. The finish obtained on softwoods and hardwood is very good, much better than what I have been used to.

    The thicknesser is also a fantastic machine, it is very quick to adjust to the correct height, but dont trust the scales, these need re-calibration. One annoying thing about the thicknesser is that if you are thicknessing small pieces (not very thick that is), when you change back to jointer mode you need to wind down the table. I suspect this is a limitation of all combos. There is NO snipe with my machine which is a huge change between my previous thicknesser, the GMC. Dust extraction on the thicknesser is satisfactory but not perfect, every now and then you have to wipe down the table.

    A huge benefit more me as I live in a residential area is that the machine is relatively quiet compared to my previous thicknesser. Also having placed te combo on a mobile base it makes it extremely portable and very easy to push into the corner of a small shed (I have very little shed space).

    All in all my impressions over this week are favourable. It is difficult to know whether the machine will be reliable in the long run but for now I am very happy with this purchaase and I would recommend it to anyone who needs a jointer and thicknesser but doesnt have the space for stand-alone machines.

    regards

    Marios
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  6. #215
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Over there a bit
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    17
    Posts
    2,511

    Default

    I concure with all your findings.

    I only use the scale a as a really rough guesstimate, if I'm after a perzact thickness I measure.

    Winding down the table is a PIA, but that's life.
    Boring signature time again!

  7. #216
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I have recently brought a ML392 from timbecon. I have had no major dramas other than those listed in the thread. The one issue I do experience which I cannot see that anyone else has experienced is that when in thicknesser mode, you have set the height to what you require, I feed the wood through and the thicknesser, the locking mechanism does not lock the table off fully. I can refeed the wood through 5 or more times and it is still takes a cut from the face. It is like the table is flexing. I have also noticed that the handle drops even with the table lock mechanisim fully turned in.

    Has anyone experienced this problem?????and do you have a solution?????

    I look forward to hearing from all of you users....

    Cheers

    Speed80

  8. #217
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    Take the side cover off and check out the locking rod/nut at the post housing. It may be stripped.
    Cheers, Ern

  9. #218
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    cheers, will have a look at the weekend.

    Speed80

  10. #219
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,989

    Default

    Can anyone comment on where to get the cheapest blades for these machines from, I remember hearing that buying by the length and having them cut was cheapest but don't know where from? Online is good, somewhere in Perth is better. I know that you can get them from Timbecon and Carbatec but am looking for a supplier of possibly better quality at an equal or better price.

  11. #220
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,989

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jakiiski View Post
    The blade size is 260x3x30 (in millimeters).
    Just in case anyone orders some blades based on this thread, I just pulled the blades out of mine and they are 250 x 30 x 3

  12. #221
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,989

    Default Another issue

    Well I have to say that after spending a good few hours now tuning the machine, I am pretty happy I did not buy it and it is just on loan. It is my fathers machine and he reported that he had to force timber through it and it would not feed. My first through was that the machine had the common drive wheel rubber problem but that is in perfect order and the feed rollers are rotating fine (even marking the timber when it ceases to feed). At first I thought it was the bar in front of the kickback fingers catching the timber and causing it to stop, so I raised the infeed table as high as I could and reset the blades to match. This had the effect of bringing the blades out of the cutter head further and naking sure there was clearence between the bar and the timber.

    This has not helped at all, the table is smooth and has been waxed but the timber continues to stall in the machine and when it does feed it tend to draw the timber across to the right. To give you an idea of how hard it is to feed the timber, I can push on it hard enough to move the machine.

    Has anyone else had this problem and if so what was the solution?

  13. #222
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Laurieton
    Posts
    2,251

    Default

    The only time I have had a "jamming" problem is either when the thicknesser table needed cleaning and waxing, or when the side to be cut (top side) varies greatly in thickness. This results in the feed starting OK, then when an unacceptable thickness is reached it jams. Other than that, can't help. I assume that you have jointed one side before running it through the thicknesser. Just had to ask.
    Bob

    "If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
    - Vic Oliver

  14. #223
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,989

    Default

    It has been run through the saw so the thickness is uniform but not jointed and the problem still persists after multiple passes on both sides (when it is definitley smooth and uniform). The machine has freshly sharpened blades and it is not labouring so I doubt it is from the amount of material being cut off (1/2 turn on the wheel).

    The timber is about 40mm square so I am thinking that could it be the smaller surface area causing it - I will try putting through a wider piece tomorrow and see if it still does it.

  15. #224
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    945

    Default

    I must admit I have not had any major problems. I think that the machine is probably underpowered at times but I suppose for the price (and more importantly for me - the footprint) it is an excellent machine. The only time I had troubles with the timber getting through and even tending to veer off on one side is when I hadn't realized that the dust extractor bag was full and I kept planing . After an hour of dismantling, cleaning and sharpening the blades it was all good again . Luckily I hadn't made a mess of the belts!

    regards

    Marios
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  16. #225
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mount Colah, Sydney
    Age
    72
    Posts
    923

    Default

    May have nothing to do with it, but a similar issue with my H&F cheapie.

    You mention timber drifting to side/skewing.

    When this happens on mine, and board reaches either side on machine, there is a sharp edge which digs into the (say) 20mm edge of the board, and jams it, even if it looks like there is still clearance. Have to yank the leading end of the board sideways to clear, and then feeds again.

    If I concentrate on controlling board feed to keep away from sides, problem doesn't arise.

    regards
    Alastair

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