Thread: Rip fence issues

figure 6

Well, the fence doesn't look great quality but at least you have the problem in the right direction. If the gap was narrower at the back you'd have big problems.

There's a school of thought which says a bit of toe-out (wider gap at back of the blade) stops any chance of re-cutting on the back teeth and many people set it up like that. In this case though, I think 1.5mm over that short distance is too much and i'd be making any adjustments you could to get it back to 0 - 0.5mm out. If it can't do it and still has play in it, check out a better fence.

Hi...

If your saw is still in warranty, I'd be getting a new rip fence. Have you checked your fence extrusion with a straightedge? Is there any way to shim the mounting point to compensate?

If your saw's table is cast iron, you can use a magnetic dial indicator base to prevent the far end of the fence from toeing away from the blade. use caution, obviously, to not introduce toe-in, which is a recipe for fast, fast kickbacks.

hope this is helps...

Greg

Hi Andrew,
Have you checked that the blade/arbor are set correctly and also the table as usually they can be adjusted.
beejay1

http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9

BJ's on to something there, is the blade parallel to the mitre slots?

If your blade is parallel to the mitre slots and you can't get any adjustment on the fence itself then you can place shims between the front rail and the top.

Mick

Have you looked at the fence head.
the adjustments on mine are where the head meets the rail.
Even if there are no adjustments there are there iregularities where the fence head meets the rail.
Does this require a shim or a stroke of the file?
cheers

I eventually complained to the manager of the company I purchased it from and he agreed to send a technician over to check out the problem. I agree the blade is not paralell to the mitre slot but cant figure out how to adjust it. Ill let you all know what the outcome is.

Andrew

Is it possible to unbolt the table from underneath and move it until the slot lines up, then re bolt it ?

Originally Posted by Gumby

Is it possible to unbolt the table from underneath and move it until the slot lines up, then re bolt it ?

I agree with Gumby's post. To align the mitre slots with the blade on Cabinet saws you will need to loosen the bolts that hold the table top to the cabinet and then adjust the table top until the mitre slots line up with the blade. Then retighten the bolts carefully and retest to make sure that you haven't knocked the table top out of alignment again wheb tightening the bolts.

Contractor saws are a bit more difficult just a bit reverse in that you loosen the bolts that hold the trunnions and and move them by a slight tap with a mallet to align the blade with the mitre slots. Same story be careful when tightening the bolts.

Problem is to access anything for adjustment I either have to remove the cast table top that weighs about 60 kg and takes ages or tip the saw on its side. It also has a sliding carriage so I can pull the blade towards me. Basically playing around with the whole thing scares me because I am sure I will make things worse. Anyway the technician is coming tonight so I will watch carefully so I can do it myself next time.

I hope problem is solved now. Technician came round and we removed the whole table to top as the adjuster was not easily accessable. But If need be I should be able to do it myself now. Its now about .5mm difference

Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors

I hope problem is solved now. Technician came round and we removed the whole table to top as the adjuster was not easily accessable. But If need be I should be able to do it myself now. Its now about .5mm difference

where was the adjustmebt made? Saw, Table top or fence?

There was an adjustment system underneath the table top. The whole cast table had to be taken down. Weighs a ton glad there was two of us. Hopefully will stay put should do as there was quite a complex locking mechanism. Should have taken photos bummer