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Thread: How to rip with a ryoba saw?
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3rd January 2005, 11:55 PM #1
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How to rip with a ryoba saw?
Earlier this year I bought my first Japanese saw, a fine crosscut saw, and was very impressed. So out of the festive season came a second aquisition, a general purpose ryoba saw with a dual purpose blade to both rip and cross cut. Cross cuting is easy when the wood is in a vice and the blade is used at right angles and this also works for ripping if the workpiece is small enough. Today I tried to rip a long board holding it across two "horses" but to get the blade at right angles requires a strange working position and a significant effort. The other problem I found is that it is quite difficult to keep an accurate straight line and once off line the saw has a mind of its own and contiues on. Any advice?
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4th January 2005, 12:41 AM #2
Will finish one day
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sounds like me
I have had the same problem, I "borrowed" my dad in laws triton bench, works great.... but needs to go back!
I will watch with baited breath on the solution as I will have 140mm lining boards to rip as well in the future.
I like all my fingers
at this stage I would like to hijack this post and mention some sort of food , not pancakes (that seems to be done!) but maybe a nice stirfry?
GAzGaz......
In this world there are people who allow dogs in their lives, and people that cats allow in theirs.
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4th January 2005, 10:24 PM #3
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First thing I would do is toss the standard blade in a cupboard until you need to cut firewood and get yourself a decent blade 40 or even 60 teeth, the blade that comes with the saw has got dragons teeth and is too rough for a decent cut.
As for the 140mm boards (I assume x20) they should not be a problem.
TaffyRemember if ther were no Mondays there would be no weekends.
(I'm retired now so to hell with mondays)
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6th January 2005, 09:16 AM #4
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Saw blades
Get a Forest blade. It will cut anything you want. High grade carbide and are they sharp. My 10" blade for my Delta Unisaw cost $120 USD. I spend no time Sanding saw marks and never change blades for cross cut. Now part of the problem is a small saw. Another problem is that you do not have a good out feed table to support the length of the board. Make sure that you have roller stands set up so that the board toes to tilt up when you come to the end of the cut. Some boards that are a little green can cup and twist which make it hard to cut streight. Vermont American also is a good blade. Not as good a Forest. I have tryed more than a dozen companies when it comes to blades. I will never buy anything other than a Forest Saw blade. No I do not work for them. They are so sharp that you need to ware a leather glove so you do not get cut. I just touched mine leaning over the table adusting something and cut my arm wide open. No it was not running.
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6th January 2005, 12:43 PM #5
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I use a Ryoba mainly for cross cutting, but also for ripping when separating the lids of boxes from the base. I first score a line with a marking gauge, then with the box in a vice, start the cut at a corner.
Stand well back from the box, and in with the blade at a low angle to the workpiece, cut carefully, being careful to keep to the line.
If you try to cut too quickly, the blade develops a bit of a whip. If you have the blade near a right angle, rather than a low angle, it tends to run off line mre and is harder to correct.
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