Thread: Saw set for small tpi

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=29147

The topic of saw sets got a bit of discussion a couple of days ago on the thread at the link I've pasted above. In this thread forum members Schtoo and MikeW discuss a saw set made by Somax of Japan that would do the job. This particular saw set covers the range 12 to 26 points per inch.

Regards,
Mirboo.

I been using Somax sets for over 20 years and haven't looked back.

Excellent design.

I have a Somax, no 250. It only does to 12pt, so the one you are referring too must be a different model. Any idea of the model number.

thanks
Arron

The link to identify or order the models in question is in the linked thread above...

Here tis again...
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...&Category_Code

thanks Mike.

Arron

You are most welcome Arron--hope it helped.

Do note that most types of sets can be modified by filing down the strike pin, if you happen upon a used set for the lower ppi saws. It can be a pita to disassemble, but some can be filed down assembled. Might save on time and money.

Take care, Mike

For high tpi the burr left by filing may be all the set you need. I did not put any set on dovetail saw at 14tpi. Cuts fine, and only needs to cut less than an inch.

Originally Posted by Heavansabove

For high tpi the burr left by filing may be all the set you need. I did not put any set on dovetail saw at 14tpi. Cuts fine, and only needs to cut less than an inch.

Excellent point.

The ideal amount of set is the minimum amount that prevents the saw from binding in the type of wood the saw is asked to cut. Airdried softwood at 12% EMC will require more set than kilndried hardwood at 6% EMC....but not much more on the setting tool. Taper ground blades in expensive handsaws require considerably less set than blades of a uniform thickness in cheap handsaws and most back saws. Most saws today set up by factories or sharpening shops have more set than required.

When I rehab a saw, I joint and shape the teeth, then before setting and final filing I make a test cut in my wood just to see if the saw binds in the cut without set. Only if it binds do I add a small amount of set, then I try it again. Generally, the thinner the blade, like in a .0028 dovetail saw, the less likely it is to bind, the more taper in a larger handsaw blade's grind, the less likely it is to bind,, and to a lesser extent the more tension on the blade, the less likely it will bind. There can be variances in individual saws of the same model, usually depending on whether the blade was ever bent, straightened and retensioned.

I work primarily in 12% EMC softwoods and hardwoods, yet I have a couple of taper ground .0035 Disstons that run with no set, and a couple of .0028 dovetail saws (full-back saws generally aren't taper ground) filed rip that also run with no set. At the same time I have a Disston 68 dovetail saw with a .0032 blade that requires some set, as does one of my taper ground Disston 12's at 10ppi.

I went to the markets yesterday and bought a couple of Somax 250's. I dissassembled one, ground the pin down to about 1/4 of its previous width, and ground a bit off the flat of the strike plate (?). Reassembled. Problem solved.

thanks
Arron

Originally Posted by Arron

I went to the markets yesterday and bought a couple of Somax 250's.

Arron,

Where in Sydney (I assume they're in Sydney because that is where you're located) are the markets that you went to in order to buy the saw sets? Do they have many other woodworking tools?

Regards,
Mirboo.

North Rocks Markets, at the Deaf and Blind Childrens school, every Sunday morning. It can be very good for old tools, or very ordinary, it just depends upon which stallholders turn up. On Sunday one fellow had about 6 of the Somax, all priced at $8, including the ones which were missing bits.

A large Dawn woodworking vice at $22 looked interesting. Quick action model.

Not a lot else on the day.
Arron

Thanks Arron for the info on the North Rocks Markets.

Regards,
Mirboo.