Thread: Treat MDF for router table?

Hi Anthony,

I put a hard wood edge around the MDF and then covered both sides with laminate. Easy to clean and slippery. When the pieces are large I rub on a little parrafin wax to the laminate surface too.

Buz.

If you are looking for a cheaper option then a gloss paint on the MDF will help enormously. Don't forget to paint both sides.

A spray sealant is another option. Such as Varathane (acrylic polyurethane). A couple of coats will make it slide, and clean up easily. If you really want the wood to fly then rub on some wax afterwards!

AA we dont get Varathane over here!
Acrylic poly? Is it acrylic or poly... cant be both. Is it poly with acrylic qualitys or is it acrylic with poly properties?

I'd imagine you'd need a finish that dries hard, some waterbased finishes I've used seem to stay a bit "grippy" for a while.

I'd go with contact cementing laminex on both sides, and either hardwood edging (wot buz sed) or laminex the edges as well. Rub a white (paraffin) candle over the surface every now & then. Go to a postforming place, ask nicely to have a scab in their bin for some laminex scrap.


Good luck..............cheers.............Sean

why not try Mr Sheen! works for just about everything else

Because it has silicon in it...

oops stuffed that one up. sorry harry72 but are you sure?

Thanks for the feedback.

So it would seem that the best bet is to laminate it hey?

Would a second prize be clear ployurethene?

Polyurethane works well, though laminate is more durable

Anthony, if you do end up laminating it, I'd recommend getting Laminex brand contact cement, sold specifically for that purpose.

I found it thinner that stuff like Norton or Selleys contact cement, making it easier to spread out with a notched scraper.

I did one side of mine with the Norton stuff, then needed more cement and got the Laminex stuff for the second side, came out much flatter.

Ring laminex for stockists near you if you can't find it in your local hardware (my local Mitre 10 had it)


Cheers..............Sean

Thanks scooter.

Is the reason for doing both side to prevent the laminate causing bowing?

Is this necessary with a 32mm MDF table?

I saw some acrylic sheeting at bunnings woudl that be good for laminating with?

Originally Posted by Oz Digger

oops stuffed that one up. sorry harry72 but are you sure?

Not entirely sure, its just what I've heard a few times... try painting over a surface thats been sheened, not good!
Plus its a water guard thats not a oil... so it might be a silicon(any industrial chemists here?)

Originally Posted by anthonyd

Thanks scooter.

Is the reason for doing both side to prevent the laminate causing bowing?

Is this necessary with a 32mm MDF table?

I saw some acrylic sheeting at bunnings woudl that be good for laminating with?

Hi Anthony, What I have read you will need to laminate both sides to ensure the surface remains flat and does not cup. The same principle applies to the edging to prevent moisture entering the exposed sides. I run jigs along the edge so chose to put a hard wood edge on to increase wear etc.

My top is two pieces of 18mm MDF laminated to give a 36mm top with laminate on both sides. I bought my laminate from bunnings, found a piece with a small tear in it and got it for 20 per cent off. The tear was on the edge and I managed to cut it off. I am happy with my table top and would do the same again if building a new router table.

I like scooters advice with the contact cement, wish I was aware of that last year.

Cheers,

Buz.