Thread: Using Japanese chisels

I reckon if you buy a reasonable set of Japanese chisels (eg Iyoroi)you'll be very happy. You shouldn't find them much different to use to western chisels, except that you probably won't have to sharpen them as often.
They're made to be hit with a small hammer, but you can use a mallet or pare by hand. The back of the blade is very hard & brittle, but it's backed by a more forgiving steel. You can work up a really sharp edge and you'll be surprised how easily you can pare end grain with it.

Buy & enjoy.

If you really want to buy top stuff, PM Goodwoody for the name of a gent he does business with in Japan.

Alex -

Thanks for the tips. As it happens, I remembered a friend had some Jap tools in his garage doing nothing. I gave him a call, and a short 10-minute drive later I had his barely used Iyoroi chisels in my hot little hands!

I'm on hols at the moment, so I'll give 'em a burn on some meranti or maple tomorrow, and give them back to him soon (if I can bear to part with them).

Studying these chisels (and the Dozuki he's lent me) is a lesson in Japanese culture. How differently the Japanese think! (And pretty darned smart thinking, I might add.) I love the logic and minimalism behind these tools. So un-Western!

Thanks for the tip on Goodwoody. I'll buzz him.

Later!
GW

GW

My Japanese chisels are the first I turn to when chopping in hardwood. Nothing else comes close. They are very durable (I never had one chip) as long as you are not silly (such as attempting to prize with a butt chisel as if were a mortice chisel). The handles are short and hooped and designed for a hammer. I prefer to pare with something that has a longer handle (such as my Witherbys).

They get very sharp and hold an edge longer than any other chisel I own.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, Derek.

By the way, when you blokes are using these, do you hone a small secondary bevel on them, or just sharpen the one main bevel?

Cheers,
GW

GW

My Japanese chisels are flat honed at 30 degrees. There is no need for a secondary bevel.

This also makes it easy to hone freehand.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,
Sorry to bring back this thread, but do you use the Japanese hammers or is the old western style claw fine. My Iyoroi butt chisels are getting a hiding :eek: on the small ring on the top of the handle.
Tim

Tim

I use a Japanese hammer. However it should not make a difference - have you set the "ring" on the handle? You know this must be done before using a Japanese chisel?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I was able to snaffle a full set (12) of Iyoroi butt chisels from Garrett Wade Australia as they were closing down, 1.5mm - 32mm (VERY VERY cheaply).

After using a set of Stanley's it was a revelation!! They will hold a really fine edge MUCH longer than all the other western chisels I've tried & will pare end grain without much effort - as AlexS says.

In use there is not much difference, it's the sharpening that will make the difference. You will be more inclined to put in a bit more time & care with these great tools.

My advice is; get out there & buy, buy ,buy!!

G'day guys,
I tend to like western chisels I have some japanese chisels and I'm careful with them but I find they don't hold up to the hardwoods like spotted gum grey iron bark and i never use a hammer with them. But then I have a japanese carving knife and I've never used anything better I love western tools more then jap stuff but thats just me.

Alistair

[quote=derekcohen]Tim

I use a Japanese hammer. However it should not make a difference - have you set the "ring" on the handle? You know this must be done before using a Japanese chisel?

No I have not set them...I have just used them straight from the shop, though the only one that I give a hiding to lately is my 36mm Iyoroi Butt chisel. Could I be as rude to ask you to walk me through this Derek?

Compared to an old set of Bergs from Dad, I love the Iyoroi chisels, though yesterday I was retrieving nails (very carefully) from some old iron bark. Using the chisels to work around the nail for pliers to retrieve, I found the old Burgs with their thin blade cutting very nicely.

Thanks
Tim

Hi Tim

The "rings" are actually termed "hoops", and you should not be hitting them with your hammer. They are there to reinforce the end of the handle and prevent splitting. The aim is to hit the wooden end. So the hoops must be set lower on the handle.

To set the hoops, remove them and mark a line about 1/16" below the existing hoop line (assuming that the top of the hoop is level with the top of the handle - you want to drop the hoop down 1/16" below the top of the handle). Cut this with a sharp knife, then pare away the waste.

Replace the hoop. Now tap the exposed handle wood so that it mushrooms over the hoop.

There you are. The basic version. For a more in-depth tuning of Japanese chisels, go to

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...oop_guide.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

Just printed out the thread and now off to my shed.

Thanks you very much
Tim
Brisbane

Interesting to notice this thread has come back to life.

I got my chisels a few weeks ago through a friend in Japan. I went through the hoop-setting process, flattened the backs and honed 'em up on my fine waterstone. They're real nice ... looking fwd to using 'em in anger.

I have a friend who is doing up a hammer for me at the moment. I got a nice chunk of hexagonal brass (300 gms) which will make a nice and cheap hammerhead once he's finished turning a slight concave surface onto the face of it.

I must say, having to prepare and tune these chisels (as with Jap planes) gives you a real sense of being a part of the tool's story. I think it's just a tradition thing, but I must say (and this sounds corny, I know), I feel closer to those chisels than most others in my shed.

Cheers,
GW

Hi all,
Have now set my Japanes chisels. Could I suggest to anyone that when I did mine, all but one I had around 1-1.5mm (as suggested in the articles recomended by Derek) of the end poking out of the ring. One (my 9mm) ended up being around 3mm. I thought that this one would end up the best...however found that it was too much and finally ended up the worst! In fact when I was hammering over the end wood, the fibres began to pull apart; the result was less than perfect. I ended up chiselling around 1mm of the end and starting again. Hope this helps someone in the future!
Cheers
Tim