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  1. #1
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    Jun 2009
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    Question advice on sheoak milling

    Hello
    I have been given someme sheoak (Species??? - central victorian and rich red colour). Most was cut into 6 foot length about thirty years ago. My original intention was to block for firewood. But after opening up one or two of the more sizeable and solid lengths, I know this will be a waste of some very pretty timber.
    Although short lengths, there is a fair bit around 4 to 500mm diameter.
    My intention now is to slab anything solid with a chainsaw mill.
    Can someone please give me some advice on a suitable size to slab for resale? Should I try and maintain maximum size where possible or is there a popular dimension?
    Some of the timber looks as though it will split, is this worth milling into smaller boards? If so what dimensions?
    And given the age of the timber will it need to be seasoned after milling?

    Any help will be appreciated
    Thanks

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Busselton, WA
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    Default cutting sheoak

    Bare in mind that to get the best from sheoak you have to quartersaw it. So is slabbing it the best idea? I cut all of mine into 100x50 and sell it to musical instrument makers but it must be cut on the quarter.

  4. #3
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    Jun 2009
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    Default

    Thanks nifty.
    Maybe I will quarter in the paddock and then take to a miller.
    Would you use a chainsaw mill to quarter it?
    Or just rip it twice and let the miller straighten?
    Thanks again

  5. #4
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    Apr 2006
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    Brookfield, Brisbane
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    Default

    quater saw it.

    quite easy with a chainsaw mill.

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  6. #5
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    Jun 2003
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    Gatton, Qld
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    Default

    Torech, I'd be ripping into quarters by hand with the chainsaw. Two reasons 1) I don't have a 'chainsaw' mill 2) it's quick.

    Then I'd look at finding a mate or a workshop with a bandsaw to re-saw the quarters, at best they'll be 250mm and you won't lose too much squaring them up if the chainsaw is cutting well, plus the bandsaw overall will return more timber.
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sigidi View Post
    Torech, I'd be ripping into quarters by hand with the chainsaw. Two reasons 1) I don't have a 'chainsaw' mill 2) it's quick.

    Then I'd look at finding a mate or a workshop with a bandsaw to re-saw the quarters, at best they'll be 250mm and you won't lose too much squaring them up if the chainsaw is cutting well, plus the bandsaw overall will return more timber.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Don't wish to rain on your parade here but I also think that you might need to be prepared for the fact that it may only be suitable for firewood unless you're after small short boards.

    Logs that were docked to 6' lengths 30 years ago, especially Sheoak will quite possibly be checked and split right through but then again you might be lucky and have some good recoverable timber
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Busselton, WA
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    Default quartering sheoak

    If they are ok, Allens idea would be best. DJ too has a point, usually with sheok its best to mill it soon after it hits the ground, 30 years sounds like a bit too long lying around.

  10. #9
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    Jun 2009
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    bendigo vic
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    Default

    Thanks for the advice guys.
    I gotta say you guys respond to this forum quick.
    Yeah I will just rip in the paddock and hopefully find a bandsaw. If not a ripping bench will have to do.
    And yes there is a lot of firewood amongst it, but of what I have cut so far there does seem to be a small percentage that has stood the test of time.
    I think I will do as nifty sugests and go for 50 by 100 mm.

    Thanks again for the advice. If I am succesful will post some pics.

  11. #10
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    Gatton, Qld
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    yeah we are all self declared addicts of making some form of sawdust
    I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
    Allan.

  12. #11
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    Mar 2009
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    Coffs Harbour
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    Default

    Torech, if you have a chainsaw mill, I have one way of quarter-sawing which is relatively quick, and has the bonus of giving quarters with true sides for easy bandsawing later, and better recovery. Just cut the log sections straight down the centre like usual, then strap the two halves back together with three rachet straps - one at each end and one in the middle. Turn the re-formed log 90 degrees and cut straight down the centre again, moving the straps out as you go, and re-doing them behind the bar as it cuts through. I do this on silky oak, forest oak, macadamia, banksia and anything else with ray pattern. You can then get much more valuable wide boards. Voila

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Busselton, WA
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    Default

    I only do it that way because thats how I can sell it. Keep it as big as you can. If your going to store it, you can always resaw it down later, Just worry about the salvage process first

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