Thread: basic question about newly milled radiata

I've had no troubles with it. Some of it may want to bend and twist, it pays to rack them straight away and put a little weight on top of the racked timber. Might be some different opinions on how long you should dry them for. My opinion is a NSW summer should dry them fine. I have cut them at 100mm x 50mm and dressed dow to 90mm x 45mm but you don't have too. I think radiata is perfect for building. Good luck with it
regards John

To use it legally for structural framing you will need to get it graded, including this and the cost of getting it milled it may well be cheaper/easier to just buy it.
But you could use them anywhere else like lining boards or for trims, could be possible to use them whole as chunky columns(no good in ground though, unless you get them treated or use some form of stirrup/foot).

Lucas, I used a heap of radiata which came off our local golf course at the time. My advice would be you do need to stack and strap it,chuck a sheet of tin on top of it and a bit of weight, max of 1m wide and up to 1m high with stickers between, some will go as mentioned, but these can easily be used for nogs and the like.

I wouldn't advise using 4x2 as this isn't a standard size, so getting more if need be will be tough and also building inspectors seem to have problems if it isn't exactly the thing they expect.

Also wouldn't advise using it for trims as there are so many knots in it your trims will be shocking once it's dried out, as a stud this won't be seen anywhere near as much.

Don't forget you can use it for ceiling battens also, getting it treated is relatively easy, my local will do pine for $55 per cube or that works out to be about 13c per metre if your really worried.

Let us know how you go

Originally Posted by Sigidi

I wouldn't advise using 4x2 as this isn't a standard size, so getting more if need be will be tough and also building inspectors seem to have problems if it isn't exactly the thing they expect.

Hi Sigidi, just wondering, what is a standard size for pine studs? I also figured that 4x2 can be machined up to 90x45. Most people I cut studs for ask for 4x2.

70x35 mgp10 is standard pine frame

My building inspector (building surveyor) is happy to grade my timber as he inspects the constuction. Might be different in other states. I had heard that you had to have timber graded before use, I rang and checked (otherwise I was just gunna buy a stamp and stamp them myself) turned out its all good, if I use a knotty old rotted length of 6 x 2 for a span, it will not pass. If I use a good solid 6 x 2 for a span, no problems. handy to know.

regards John

John, I went off and did a course to be qualified for grading. Funny thing was when building inspector came around my place I was building up in Gympie, they didn't even ask about it. I had pine frame using 70x45 studs, I asked do you want to see my grading ticket, he said , slapping the frame" nah, good hardwood frme like this no need" the timber was slash pine

If possible, it would be better to leave felling until Autumn as the sap has now started to rise and will continue thru summer. Your question about twisting will very much depend on your drying arrangements and sawing technique. Quarter sawn timber will stay straight better than back sawn. Have a look at some 90x45 at a timber yard. Look at the end. If the grain is curved like a rainbow across the end, thats back sawn. If the grain is vertical across the end, thats quarter sawn. The latter is usually straighter.

Oh I forgot. Yes 90x45 is a standard size as is 70x45. You can also drop back to 90x38 which would be quicker to dry. Personally,I prefer 90x45. Drying time is about a year per inch thickness, depending on the season.

Remember we are talking across a few different states here and there are different practices.

For example in NSW standard radiata framing would be 90mm x 45mm or 90 x 35 for external walls and 70 x 45 or 70 x 35 for internal walls. These being seasoned sizes.

When I moved to QLD I was amazed and slightly horified to see 70 x 35 used for external frames. The house I built in NSW had 100 x 50 cypress external walls and 75 x 50 internal walls.

When the building inspector arrived to check the frame I was concerned and l asked if he thought it would be strong enough. He laughed and told me when he was learning his trade his boss had said the test was to give the frame a really good shake, walk away and if it was still standing when you looked back it was strong enough!

I was nearly as green as the timber in those days.

Back to the subject. Radiata is normally used as a seasoned timber. However, if the timber type and size is stipulated in your plans and approved, I imagine you will have no problems with the inspectors (did I just say that).

I think the timber grading rules may have changed. I did a course years ago and was given a ticket, which lapsed, but I understand from a recent thread that anybody can grade timber and you don't have a ticket as such.

However, I would suggest that you have to do a course to gain an understanding of the subject or your timber will be challenged.

Regards
Paul



Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by rustynail

Oh I forgot. Yes 90x45 is a standard size as is 70x45. You can also drop back to 90x38 which would be quicker to dry. Personally,I prefer 90x45. Drying time is about a year per inch thickness, depending on the season.

Thats a good idea, 38mm thick is ample and would take less time to dry

We need to get 5 radiata pines (4 live and 1 dead) and 2 small Eucalypts cut down in the next couple weeks. Is there someone who could use the live ones for timber? The pines are about 20m high, with a trunk diameter of about 40cm (one about 35cm). The smaller trees are about 10m high. One, Eucalyptus leucoxylon (Yellow Gum) has 2 trunks c. 25cm diam. The other, a West Australian mallee, has one trunk about 30cm diam. We're in Castlemaine, central Vic.

Some wide and varied advice here. Can I suggest you check out the timber framing guide for your State and the TABMA industry standards.http://www.tabma.com.au/industry-links.php
regards
Steve

Originally Posted by Stopper

Some wide and varied advice here. Can I suggest you check out the timber framing guide for your State and the TABMA industry standards.http://www.tabma.com.au/industry-links.php
regards
Steve

Interesting site, had never heard of them before, I have saved it to favourites. The bit on green timber was good. As for framing codes, I thought they all came under the BCA (building code of Australia) standards do vary eg. cylcone prone areas are different to say sub-alpine areas, bush fire prone areas are diferent to inner city and therefore have different building requirements but form state to state I thought were the same.
regards John