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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    tasmania
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    Default Saw chain recommendation

    Currently using 404 Stihl on my 066 cross cutting my mill logs. All hardwood. Cutting a lot of firewood from logs not suitable for milling.
    I am going through some chains, $50 a chain for a 25” bar. It is long lasting chain but is there any other brands that are as good cheaper?
    There is a brand on ebay called Hurricane, has anyone used this chain?
    is there any brands that members have used that would use again.
    The old “you get what you pay for” is good advice but 50 a chain is getting a bit much.
    I Was think of buying a roll of chain and make my loops up, I do not know what brand to go with. Any advice is appreciated.
    cheers

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,757

    Default

    I used to use Stihl chain but have used Carlton chain for the last 10 years and found is lasts almost as long as Stihl chain. I buy it in 25ft rolls from a bloke called Matt Ward in SA. PM me if you want his contact details

  4. #3
    Join Date
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    Default

    Thanks Bob, I will see how I get on.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Darkest NSW
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    Default

    Our local Stihl dealer frequently does a "2 for the price of 1" deal on ready made chains, and they always supply Carlton brand for this offer. I've had several of these over the years, and found them equal in quality to the Stihl. Slightly less meat on the teeth, but apart from that no real difference.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
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    69
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    2,810

    Default

    If the wood is really hard and prone to wearing chain quickly, what about upgrading to a Stihl tungsten carbide tipped variant. Haven't used it myself but know a few who do and seem to prefer it to steel. Pro's much harder cutting tips to withstand hard timbers, 6-10 times as much work between sharpenings, con's about triple the price of steel, needs to be sharpened with diamond rather than file or silicon carbide so probably needs a machine sharpener of some type rather than hand sharpening with a file, more prone to shedding tips if it strikes foreign material in timber.

    I run smaller Stihl saws 034 @20in and 170 @14in on Stihl or Carlton chain without issues for occasional use, have avoided the temptation to go to a cheap Chinese chain primarily because I am not an extremely trusting guy, and don't know anyone who is using them to give reliable feedback.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  7. #6
    ajileguitar Guest

    Default

    I use a chainsaw cutting hardwood every day, that's what I do. I use 404 chain as well and have been using Stihl chain for the last few years. I was using Oregon previous to that. I tried Carlton a long time ago but didn't like it. I think if you like the chain you are using buy a roll even if it is only a 25' roll, it will save you some bucks. You can spend a lot of money buying chains that aren't good enough for the job. I would be a bit sceptical of Chinese made chain.

  8. #7
    Join Date
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    tasmania
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    Default

    Thanks, yes I think I will leave the cheaper stuff alone. I think sharpening is an issue with tungsten

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Darkest NSW
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    Default

    IMHO, the higher cost of tungsten, and sharpening issues, only makes sense if you are going to be cutting a lot of perfectly clean wood which is free of dirt or grit of any kind. In the real world, I have rarely found this to be the case.....

  10. #9
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    Default

    Agreed, most of my logs are off the ground using an excavator but still plenty of dirt etc caught up in the stringy bark from me moving them around. I’ll stick to the normal servicable chain. Cheers

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    the sawdust factory, FNQ
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    1,051

    Default

    Stihl or Carlton. Oregon in third place... I ran Oregon for years but then it seemed to get soft halfway through the tooth, maybe just a bad batch whi knows but I find stihl to be the most consistent.

    What tooth type you running, and what angles? That can make a huge difference to edge retention. Carlton still do a 404 chipper. .. for really dirty work that's the king but slower cutting than semi chisel.

  12. #11
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    Default

    Full chisel, 30 or 35 degree angle, I use a standard file guide so what ever its set for. I have thought about a semi chisel. I am looking at prices of carton and stihl roll 25ft and a breaker and spinner.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    Default

    Full chisel is a pretty poor overall performer in hardwood... cuts fast while it lasts but edge retention is poor. You'll find a marked improvement in durability with semi chisel, it wont cut as fast as full chisel but will cut almost as fast a whole lot longer.

    Still not great in dirt though but then no chain is.

  14. #13
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    Default

    I might have to try one. I do touch up the chain lightly on every tank, seems to fly through the wood ok.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    Default

    That's half the battle - frequent light sharpenings (as you do every tankful) beats running the chain until it is really blunt. I've borrowed large Stihl saws from friends for specific jobs, usually to be amazed at the state of the chain and the fact that they were obviously still using it in that condition !! I always return these saws with chain sharpened and rakers set correctly, which has led more than one mate to think I'd fitted a new chain.....

    How often you you check/file the rakers?

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    East Warburton, Vic
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    1,604

    Default

    What John.G said, semi chisel for hardwoods. I also use full chisel but only on pine, cypress and if just felled, on hardwood with thick bark
    Cheers

    DJ

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