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9th August 2011, 11:10 PM #16I am told that sharpening handsaws is a dying art.... this must mean I am an artisan.
Get your handsaws sharpened properly to the highest possible standard, the only way they should be done, BY HAND, BY ME!!! I only accept perfection in any saw I sharpen.
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9th August 2011 11:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th August 2011, 07:23 AM #17
Just went to buy chain oil in the big smoke - $121.80 for a 5 Gallon bucket (almost 19l) not nice, and even the DanG file was almost a dollar more down here as compared to Peter & Jo in M'bro
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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10th August 2011, 01:39 PM #18.
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For those tempted to use used engine oil this is what Martrix found when he opened up his saw.
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10th August 2011, 02:20 PM #19
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10th August 2011, 07:39 PM #20.
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Yep, I have sometimes seen this amount of residue in saws which have always used new B&C oil. Usually it's where the oil cap has not been wiped down before opening and the oil tank has never cleaned out. The colour depends in what is being cut usually it's a dark or mid brown.
I was justing appealing to the emotional YUCK reaction that usually is associated with black.
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11th August 2011, 09:02 PM #21
Hi Al,
If you are on the Nth side maybe give Otech a try, on Boundary Rd if I remember right, just googled it and yep on Boundary Rd, 20l was a bit over $3 last I bought some last xmas
Pete
PS just had a bit of a look at the Otech site, there are two bar and chain oils one is a bio oil, it's a bit more environmentally friendly, from the data sheet looks like it's a bit thinner at the lower temp but somewhere close at the higher temp, dunno about price tho
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12th August 2011, 08:48 PM #22
Thanks Pete I will look them up - don't wanna drive to M'bro everytime I need some bar oil
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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12th August 2011, 09:36 PM #23
thats better thanks too Pete I went around today chasing up oils the mill boys were having an RDO and I am not felling solo out there had a cranky brown on tuesday and I dont fancy letting one bite me
BP quoted castrol 2T Active 2 stroke oil 20L $143.55 (BP owns castrol)
Bar and lube 20L $114.75
" " 205L $968.75
Gulf Western Bar and Lube 20L $96
Gulf Western 2 stroke 20L $105
Mobil 2stroke 20L $114.30
GAS branded
Bar oil 205L $760
2 stroke 205L $750
bar oil 20L $92
2 stroke 20L $87
I am looking more at alternatives to the manufactures branded oils only, Took me 2 weeks to clean out the 660 after the accesser put his Husky mixed used diesel oil mix in my saw.Last edited by itsposs; 12th August 2011 at 11:38 PM. Reason: forgot some prices
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13th August 2011, 07:25 PM #24
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14th August 2011, 01:49 PM #25.
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The Otech bio oil viscosity values (ie 85 cSt @ 40ºC and 10 cSt at 100ºC)
look like those for canola and similar vegetable oils. Viscosity is only one aspect of oils that need to be considered for B&C oil, another important factor is tackiness. To increase oil tackiness, tackifiers are added - these are proprietary additives that cost quite a bit if one tries to buy the separately. Some of these tackifiers contain glycol but that's not all they contain.
BTW Olive oil would be the best of the bio-oil to use if it was not so expensive. It also has the highest heat capacity so would also remove the most heat.
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14th August 2011, 09:57 PM #26
Because of reading this thread I decided to clean out my two old saws oil and fuel tanks this weekend. I rinsed oil tanks out with kero, sucking out with plastic bottle and tube, filtered thru SS mesh, repeat 3 or 4 times to get the last bit of gunk out. Did the same with fuel tank but used fuel. All were clean so to speak, only had bits of sawdust and a couple of bits of orange paint. (Husky) Came from around the oil filler area. Couple of chips just inside. (I hope that is all) Topped them both up with oil. Today I realised I was going to keep the 2101 Husky oil tank empty as it leaks thru the oiler. A problem I am told is common and unfixable. Made up a squeeze bottle just for that and used it to clean out oil tanks. Now I have to clean out this bottle, of sawdust chips (only a few) and oil before I can use it for its proper purpose. Sigh.
Dean
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14th August 2011, 10:39 PM #27.
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14th August 2011, 11:39 PM #28
Who are you trying to kid? That would involve forethought. I will buy a couple each next time I get a chance and change them. I removed the one from the Husky and blew it out with comp air tho. Will do both fuel and oil filters on both. The smaller saw is a Mobilco Echo and has a plastic filter screen at top of fuel tank about half the depth of tank. Because of this there was only a tiny bit of muck in it. Nearest shop is 40km away but it will happen soon.
I have just bought a cheap plastic chainsaw sharpener. I had to do some work to tighten it up for accurate work but is working well now. Next I have to look at the rakers. I am guilty of neglect in this matter. The only time I filed the rakers I used a ruler and vernier to set the depth as per spec and the saws both bogged down. I have been reading the instructions you sent me from Stihl, Carlton and Oregon and I am going to try the Carlton File-O-Plate. I used to have one but did not know how to use it and now I guess it is lost.
Today for the first time I used a new chainsaw we bought last week. My wife wants to learn to use one but not a big heavy one like the others. It is a Stihl Mini Boss. It is great for small branches. My wife has been telling me to cut up branches for the fires (Kitchen range and lounge slow combustion) for years. I tell her if she wants to cut 4inch branches a foot long to do it herself. This is when I am cutting up downed trees or branches(Real branches). I stihl don't think it will feature much in getting firewood. Pun intended. It is good for trimming bowl blanks for turning tho.
Dean
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