Thread: chainsaw mill

What size are the logs and exactly how poor is the access? Can they be winched out for example?

longest is about 10'. No access to whinch them out - only way would be to hire a crane and lift them over the fence which would cost more than the timber is worth. there is also no place to park a trailer based unit either. There is a mill at the bottom of the street and one of the guys came up and said, the only way to mill them would be with a chainsaw jig. I have just discovered the Logosol jig which is prety cheap (they also sell thiner bars and ripping chains) and so would just need to hire a saw.... If there is nobody out there with one already set up.

thanks

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

What size are the logs and exactly how poor is the access? Can they be winched out for example?

Originally Posted by WRB

only way would be to hire a crane and lift them over the fence which would cost more than the timber is worth. ~ ~There is a mill at the bottom of the street and one of the guys came up and said, the only way to mill them would be with a chainsaw jig.

Ok, I do log removals for the Sawmill that you mentioned, depending on which guy you got, one will say yep cranetruck no worries and the other will say geez it's gunna be a big drama blah blah. If I can drive upto to the fence, I can pick them up when I'm driving pass as I only live 15 minutes from there.

What diameter are the logs? No point giving the the length, chainsaw mills can cut any length but it it will depend on the diameter of the log, I've got one here which will do about 15" or I can borrow one to do bigger stuff.

If your sister doesn't mind, PM me the address and I'll drop in and suss it out for you.

Hi DJ and all else who contacted me.
I have decided to by a Timberjig and hire chainsaws for the time being as I have other stuff to slab (and will continue adding to the stock) as well as the blackwood.

cheers

Warren

Originally Posted by WRB

Hi DJ and all else who contacted me.
I have decided to by a Timberjig and hire chainsaws for the time being as I have other stuff to slab (and will continue adding to the stock) as well as the blackwood.

cheers

Warren

Just a word of warning. Chainsaw milling is very hard on especially modern chainsaws. Unless you are prepared to burn out (and pay for the hired chainsaw) chainsaws need to be detuned for CS milling and the most accurate way to do this is with a tachometer so unless you know how to tune a chainsaw with a tachometer I would advise against hiring a chainsaw to undertake any CS milling. I'm sure if you tell the hire company you are going to mill with it that will void your hire insurance. If you don't tell them and it comes back broke you'd better have a good story. Chainsaw milling also immediately voids any manufacturers warranty on a chainsaw.

Chainsaws are also not that cheap to hire for long periods of time. The most cost effective way to do this is to buy a used saw and tune it specifically to mill.

Also although the timber jig is OK for a couple of logs, an alaskan mill is much easier to work with than running the saw in vertical mode where the operator gets constantly covered in shyt3! If the log is set up right an alaskan mill can cut on a slope under it's own weight with minimal operator intervention. Given that an alaskan mill can be made with a piece of 5 ply an a couple of blocks of timber and two bolts I wonder why people bother with things like timber jigs.

The chainsaws are $70.00 a day to rent and, I am going to get a thin kerf ripping blade and bar. I would really be interested in making my own Alaskan mill though as they look a lot easier to use and, as you say, more accurate. I was looking at buying a Granbourne but, they are expensive. I do however, have a shitload of white oak that I have no use for so, if you know of any websites that show you how to make your own alaskan, I would really be greatful if you could point me in the right direction.
When I spoke to the guys the sell the granburne mills, they didn't mention anything about de-tuning or reducing the revs so, I will take it really slow.... Anymore info on this would also be good too - Thanks for your input

Originally Posted by BobL

Just a word of warning. Chainsaw milling is very hard on especially modern chainsaws. Unless you are prepared to burn out (and pay for the hired chainsaw) chainsaws need to be detuned for CS milling and the most accurate way to do this is with a tachometer so unless you know how to tune a chainsaw with a tachometer I would advise against hiring a chainsaw to undertake any CS milling. I'm sure if you tell the hire company you are going to mill with it that will void your hire insurance. If you don't tell them and it comes back broke you'd better have a good story. Chainsaw milling also immediately voids any manufacturers warranty on a chainsaw.

Chainsaws are also not that cheap to hire for long periods of time. The most cost effective way to do this is to buy a used saw and tune it specifically to mill.

Also although the timber jig is OK for a couple of logs, an alaskan mill is much easier to work with than running the saw in vertical mode where the operator gets constantly covered in shyt3! If the log is set up right an alaskan mill can cut on a slope under it's own weight with minimal operator intervention. Given that an alaskan mill can be made with a piece of 5 ply an a couple of blocks of timber and two bolts I wonder why people bother with things like timber jigs.

Originally Posted by WRB

The chainsaws are $70.00 a day to rent and, I am going to get a thin kerf ripping blade and bar.

$70/day won't rent you much of a saw. What diameter are the logs you are looking at.
I'd mill with a 50 cc saw if was a freebie or a cheapie I picked up out of dumpster but not a rented or a new one - the danger of destroying it on Aussie hardwoods is too high.
The smallest saw I would mill with long term (more than a couple of logs) is a quality 70+ cc saw. That will allow you to use a 25" bar for about a 20" wide cut
But it's not just having the ability to make wide cuts that counts in the long run.
Cutting speed is a combination of chain speed and torque so if you want to make progress moving up to a 90 cc saw will make a big difference.

I would really be interested in making my own Alaskan mill though as they look a lot easier to use and, as you say, more accurate. I was looking at buying a Granbourne but, they are expensive. I do however, have a shitload of white oak that I have no use for so, if you know of any websites that show you how to make your own alaskan, I would really be greatful if you could point me in the right direction.

They are easier to use but best of all they are a lot more comfortable to use.

For a thread showing a few designs on this forum look here. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f132/m...aw-mill-43925/

For comprehensive link to chain saw mills look here - http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/.
Lots of threads on different CS mill design on that site as well.

See if you can get a hold of Will Malloffs book on chainsaw milling - that has heaps of DIY designs in it. It's a little dated but it has a heap of stuff in it.

When I spoke to the guys the sell the granburne mills, they didn't mention anything about de-tuning or reducing the revs so, I will take it really slow.... Anymore info on this would also be good too - Thanks for your input

The guys that flog the mills generally know nothing about using them or how to optimise chainsaws or chains.
If you refer to that site above you will have many hours, no days of reading

There is a 70cc stihl on ebay I am watching (now everybody knows about it!!). It will be a long time before I could afford a 90cc Stihl. Largest log would be about 18-20" wide.

thanks for the links and I should be able to pick up a copy of the book through "Alibris"

cheers

Warren

Originally Posted by BobL

$70/day won't get you much of a saw. What diameter are the logs you are looking at.
I'd mill with a 50 cc saw if was a freebie or a cheapie I picked up out of dumpster but not a rented or a new one - the danger of destroying it on Aussie hardwoods is too high.
The smallest saw I would mill with long terms (more than a couple of logs) is a quality 70+ cc saw. That will allow you to use a 25" bar for about a 20" wide cut
Even then, if you want to make progress a 90 cc saw will make a big difference.


They are easier to use but best of all they are a lot more comfortable to use.

For a thread showing a few designs on this forum look here. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f132/m...aw-mill-43925/

For comprehensive link to chain saw mills look here - http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/.
Lots of threads on different CS mill design on that site as well.

See if you can get a hold of Will Malloffs book on chainsaw milling - that has heaps of DIY designs in it. It's a little dated but it has a heap of stuff in it.


The guys that flog the mills generally know nothing about using them or how to optimise chainsaws or chains.
If you refer to that site above you will have many hours, no days of reading