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23rd June 2017, 07:33 PM #1Senior Member
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- Dec 2010
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- Southern Highlands NSW
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- 444
Chainsaw milling, how hard is it?
I'm looking at planking a large tree here in the Southern Highlands (1m dia Holly) and wondering if its worth investing in a chainsaw mill. Not just from a cost perspective but also learning - how much timber should I expect to stuff up??
Any leads on a used rig appreciated (I have a large Still saw with 24" bar - can go longer).
Cheers
Phil
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23rd June 2017 07:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd June 2017, 09:33 PM #2.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 27,790
I dislike sending folks off-site but rather than reinvent the wheel go to the arborist site and read the only sticky on this forum
Milling & Saw Mills | Arboristsite.com
I have around 700o posts on there just on CS milling plus many of my photos that were lost from this site are still their (they also lost all of their pre 2010 photos) but members were permitted to reinserted their photos and I managed to do that to many of mine.
In particular I suggest paying attention to the posts on sharpening.
When you say large Stihl saw - how large?
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23rd June 2017, 11:24 PM #3Senior Member
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- Dec 2010
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
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- 444
Thanks Bob, appreciated, I had no idea about the arborist site! I'll definitely check it out. My saw is the MS381
Cheers
Phil
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24th June 2017, 10:40 AM #4.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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A 381 is considered an intermediate size professional level saw. Professional means it can stand up to the rigours of extended period operation which is essential for chain saw milling (CSM). At 72 cc it's almost identical to my 441 which I use to mill logs up to about 500 mm in diameter using a 25" bar using narrow profile Lopro chain. It's also my preferred saw for cutting and shaping logs for nature playgrounds.
Chainsaw milling, especially in Aussie timbers. is very hard on chainsaws so although you could put a longer bar on the 381 I would suggest not doing this until you have milled up a half dozen or so smaller logs so that you get the feel for the process. This will also enable you to determine if this process is really for you. While it can be a highly additive and satisfying process you may also decide you can purchase enough timber for your needs and you are not prepared to wait for the timber to dry.
There are a wide range of chainsaw mills available and even using more or less the same gear there are many ways to use it.
This is all explained on the arborist site but for hose that only have a passing interest . . . . . .
For example.
Kneeling on the ground with the left hand on the trigger and no high up handles on the right hand side this is hard on knees, shoulders, arms and back
The cut also looks like it was being made up-slope???
IMG_0716.jpg
This is fun, note the log is on a slope and the mill slides down the log rails fair;y easily.
Upright stands with arms higher up and closer together and using a remote throttle (bike break lever and cable)
setup.jpg
and "When the moon is in the seventh high"
bobsmillingstyle.jpg
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24th June 2017, 08:43 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 444
Chainsaw milling, how hard is it?
Hi Bob, that's really great information. Serious thanks. Aside from the big Holly I have 2 to 3 tons of other logs each around 500mm in length. The angled slide arrangement in one of the example set ups would be perfect (I have a tractor so lifting the logs will be relatively easy). Until now I have just been using a chainsaw freehand. Works but wastes a great deal of timber. I also have a couple of very nice blackwoods that will be coming down soon. Plenty of possibilities to use the mill [emoji3][emoji106]
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25th June 2017, 04:02 AM #6
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25th June 2017, 06:30 AM #7Senior Member
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- Dec 2010
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
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- 444
Thanks Ian, yep there is a heap to think about. Its actually turning into a nice story: this conversation got me thinking about a chap I hadn't seen for a good 12 months or so who I used to buy timber from. So I dropped him a line to see how he was going (he's a retired chap). Turns out he's been going through a bit of a downer and was delighted to hear from me. It also turns out, believe it or not, he has an old Lucas mill sitting unused for years in his shed. He's busting keen to get it out and help me with my slabbing! Perfect outcome and good times ahead!
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25th June 2017, 07:40 AM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- NSW
- Posts
- 489
Philly, years ago I had a go at ripping some timber with a chainsaw. It was a less than enjoyable experience and I vowed I would never waste my time doing it ever again.......But, and there is always a "but" with these things, I was doing everything wrong. The saw was wrong, the chain was wrong, the log was in the wrong place, I really made things hard for myself. Had I done more research and followed in the steps of BobL the task would have been easier and the results would have been better.....I would advise you to have a go, it will only cost you a ripping chain and some time to fabricate a jug to carry the saw. Give it a go, but be aware that sawmilling is addictive.
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25th June 2017, 08:18 AM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
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- 444
LoL, been there done that and embarrassed myself to boot. Like the time I was so focussed on setting the logs up at the best angles, safety etc but for the life of me couldn't work out why my new chain wasn't cutting. It improved amazingly after I turned it around! A great deal of timber cut since then and I'm far wiser. Wise enough to know that there's a lot I don't know - hence my questions on the forum. Brilliant to have access to folk with Bob's knowledge and enthusiasm.
It will be fantastic to have my old mate show me how its done with his Lucas It will also assist greatly in improving my understanding of whats involved and what to invest in for my specific requirements.
Cheers
Phil
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25th June 2017, 09:54 AM #10.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,790
The Holly would definitely need a bigger saw and bar, but the 2-3 tons of other logs is not a lot of wood to mill with a Chainsaw mill.
Provided, like anything, you
- don't mind doing it. Just try it it can be VERY addictive - its taken me ~130 logs to get over the addition.
- you have the time
- you have the $$ to set up properly
- you have the space to set up and store the timber.
It really helps if you have mechanical aid in the raising of logs and movement of slabs.
When it's working I find it quite a cathartic process. The roar of the saw, the smell of the exhaust and fresh sawdust and the chance to see wood as it really is - it's never the same even a few minutes later and whatever finish is generated when its dry is a pale shadow of the original wood. After cutting a slab the refuelling and touching up the chain manually is a quiet and peaceful interlude before getting back into it.
Initially I would milling anything I could get hold of. Branches on verges put out for council kerbside collection, scraggly looking yard trees etc. These days I am more selective. I won't mill pine (there's plenty of that around_ or dirty/white anted logs. Urban trees need to be special for me to put a chain into.
If you are "product" focussed then chainsaw milling is very slow, but if you are after an interesting "journey" then I classify chainsaw milling as an excellent adventure. For me it was not just the milling but the fact that It provided an outlet for making all manner of gizmos, jigs and rigs, tools etc to go along with the process.
Apart from making four chainsaw mills here's just a few.
Bar box
Boxopen2.jpg
Cant hooks
pair.jpg
Bar dresser
dresser.jpg
Saw stand
IMG_8958.jpg
Custom trestle table with insets to hold mill/saw while tuning/sharpening/refuling.
table1.jpg
Bar rail closer.
Finished1.jpg
Steel band roll holder
IMG_3052.jpg
This one is weird, a chain cleaner
42incher.jpg
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25th June 2017, 06:45 PM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 444
Far out, now that's a Serious hobbie!!! To clarify, I'm more a turner so I use the chainsaw to rough out the blanks rather than slab. If I have a particularly large trunk I'll slice it, though invariably very untidy.
Most of my timber comes from arborists or folk letting me know that they are felling a large tree. I cut the timber into just manageable chunks, seal it, and leave it out in a paddock under black plastic - with plenty of air space. A very crude solar kiln arrangement but works fine.
A few years ago I was given access to several old Holly trees but had little idea about how to handle the timber. It went grey and cracked badly, ruining nearly all of it. I kicked myself for the waste.
So this time I'll be far more careful. I may even be able to access a real kiln so the combo of my mates Lucas, antifungal soaking and a kiln will hopefully result in some beautiful white, rare, timber.
I'll see how the Lucas goes before deciding on the approach for the big Blackwoods. Some valuable timber in them!
Thanks again for the great advice.
Cheers
Phil
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