Thread: How do you clean sump oil?

Originally Posted by glenn k

here DJ Jack Master,Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filters,

Ta

try purex dbl length they are pretty tightly wound

Thanks Glenn I'll check them out - it's the internal cardboard cylinder diameter that is critical as it is supposed to fit closely over the aluminium centre-post of the filter.

if you have to use sump oil cut a thread on the end of your 44 drum pump screw on a in line filter base and filter like what hydraulic oil filters spin on and pump oil thru this into another drum

Originally Posted by glenn k

I just read this artical these dunny role filters seem very good.
Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter
Maybe less messy and a lot smaller to use one of these to filter for chain oil with gravity feed.

I suppose the added advantage is that you will have dunny paper if u get caught short when you need a crap, albeit a bit slippery though.

These filters are not really designed for gravity feed and require 20 + psi to operate effectively.
Maybe u could filter the oil and put it back in ur vehicle.
It beats me why people will spend good money on bars & chain then use sh*t oil, no thanks.

Originally Posted by Sawchain

I suppose the added advantage is that you will have dunny paper if u get caught short when you need a crap, albeit a bit slippery though.

These filters are not really designed for gravity feed and require 20 + psi to operate effectively.
Maybe u could filter the oil and put it back in ur vehicle.
It beats me why people will spend good money on bars & chain then use sh*t oil, no thanks.

Do you honestly believe that chain oil works any better than sump oil?
I used some very sticky chain oil once and had to keep freeing up the chains then had 2 nose sprokets bugga up (I have never had that happen before) so we diluted it down with 20w50 engine oil and it worked as well as sump oil.
I used to run 2 identical saws (change when one was empty) so I decided to run one on sump oil and the other on chain oil after a couple of weeks an employee put sump oil in both so I couldn't tell the difference. It was too soon to tell anything but they had the same tiny amount of wear.

OK motor oil and it's contaminants.

The simple version.

Oil filters are only sieves. They work on two principles. fineness of mesh or fiber weave, and depth or thickness of filtration medium.

The solids are mostly soot (carbon / lamp black) and a little other crap.

The particulates are measured in microns. Most crap car oil filters allow 25 micron sized particles and under to pass through.

Most carbon particles suspended in the oil tend (I recall) to be around 1 - 5 microns.

Yes pulling the core from a toilet paper roll and the fitting a filter specific housing to it does work - the oil comes out as clear as honey.

While the filtering medium will trap enormous volumes of contaminants - it's slow and takes a long time to filter large amounts of oil.

Plain 80gsm paper will filter everything out of any solvent, first pass but the thicker the fluid, and the more contaminants the quicker the flow rate drops to almost "0".

My personal favourite for cleaning solvents in part washing - such as petrol, turps, kero etc., is to use the coffee dripolator filters on the glass jugs.

The filter paper will take several loads of dirty solvent and the "dirt" will coat the filter and also act as a very fine filter - thus enabling one to clean the dirt from and recycle solvent/s when scrubbing dirty engine parts etc., tho contamination from oil pick up and repeated exposure to the air will accelerate the oxidation of the solvent (rancidification) .

But it will enable one to clean an enormous amount of dirt off an awful lot of parts with a very small amount of solvent. Tho where oil free surfaces are requires a second rinsing in a suitable solvent will be required.

Yeah back to using sump oil for chain lube.

Stupid idea. Carcinogenic - from skin contact and inhaling mist.

As the process is a single use application and it's low temperature, maybe look at vegetable oils - canola or sunflower seed.

These are cheap, non toxic and lubricate very well. Just be sure to flush the tank with regular bar oil before storage.

Originally Posted by HammaHed

Most carbon particles suspended in the oil tend (I recall) to be around 1 - 5 microns.

Yes pulling the core from a toilet paper roll and the fitting a filter specific housing to it does work - the oil comes out as clear as honey.

There are huge numbers of soot particles made by internal combustion in the submicron range. Diesels in particular make many particles <0.1 microns so their lube oils are full of this stuff. These small particles are impossible to see with the naked eye and crudely filtered oil is full of these particulates. So your filtered oil may be crystal clear but still full of nanosoot. But the real nasties are the dissolved metals which no amount of physical filtering or magnets or magic can remove.

There is a process off dripping the sump oil along copper wires to leave all the pollutants behind and clean the oil but I am not aware of the exact process.
Try google searches.

Originally Posted by BobL

There are huge numbers of soot particles made by internal combustion in the submicron range. Diesels in particular make many particles <0.1 microns so their lube oils are full of this stuff. These small particles are impossible to see with the naked eye and crudely filtered oil is full of these particulates. So your filtered oil may be crystal clear but still full of nanosoot.

But the real nasties are the dissolved metals which no amount of physical filtering or magnets or magic can remove .

Ohhhhhhhh so CLOUDS are full of teeny little water molecules - coalescing into teeny little water drops - but you can't see them either, not even from millions of miles away....

OK.

Dissolved metals - without truly displaying the limitations of my capabilities:

Typical infernal combustion engine contains the recommended daily allowance of "Iron, Aluminium, Tin, Lead, Copper, Silicon and Upsidasium (makes the pistons rise)"

Mix in condensates containing water, sulphur, carbon dioxide and monoxide, assorted nitrogen compounds blah blah blah blah = several post doctorate thesis's or thesi.

Different temperature ranges, assorted buffers in oil base stock..... age and clearances of engine...

Overall it's a HUGE chemistry set....


Google:

Search No. 1.

cleaning used engine oil

Search No. 2.

recycling used engine oil


Some interesting things here:

Used Engine Oil Recycling Equipment HY oil recycling CN;CHO products

Recycling : Used Engine/Motor/Car Oil Recycling Machine - Suppliers Trade Lead - engine oil decolor - motor oil recycling - car oil filtering

"This purifier can remove water, impurity, acid base, and tiny impurity dispersed in oil such as carbon particles, heavy metal ions, deep oxides, as well as bad substance such as colloid and bitumen"

Used Engine Oil Recycling Plant, Oil Recycling Machine,China oil recycling plant Products,Used Engine Oil Recycling Plant, Oil Recycling Machine manufacturer

"This waste engine oil recycling plant used a physiochemical reaction, which can eliminate the electric charge between polar particulate in waste oil purification, which is gathered into large particles and remove. It is also can remove colloid, bitumen and other compound"

Recycling used engine oil

"Used oil doesn't wear out - it just gets filthy. It can be cleaned of contaminants and recycled continuously. It can even be cleaned to the point where it can be reused as engine oil.

The dirty oil goes through the same refining process as oil that is extracted from wells. New engine oil made from recycled oil meets the standards used in the industry lubrication industry. According to the American Petroleum Institute, re-refined oil is of as high a quality as a virgin oil product.

The recycling process is as follows:

- Removal of any water
- Filtering to remove solids and additives
- De-asphalting to remove bituminous content
- Distillation"

Originally Posted by BobL

But the real nasties are the dissolved metals which no amount of physical filtering or magnets or magic can remove .

Yeah OK - I'll go along with what you say.

These days it is easy to clean sump oil , all that is required is a centrifuge , you buy them , not too cheap though . Cheers MM

Originally Posted by HammaHed

Ohhhhhhhh so CLOUDS are full of teeny little water molecules - coalescing into teeny little water drops - but you can't see them either, not even from millions of miles away....

OK.

The atmosphere contains water molecules (invisible gas), and 100 to 1000 per cc of cloud condensation nuclei (also invisible since they are submicron in size)
The water condenses onto the cloud condensation nuclei eventually form full of droplets of water around 20 microns in size in clouds. Being bigger than a few microns means they are able to reflect and scatter light so they are visible.
See Cloud condensation nuclei - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Originally Posted by BobL

The atmosphere contains water molecules (invisible gas), and 100 to 1000 per cc of cloud condensation nuclei (also invisible since they are submicron in size)
The water condenses onto the cloud condensation nuclei eventually form full of droplets of water around 20 microns in size in clouds. Being bigger than a few microns means they are able to reflect and scatter light so they are visible.
See Cloud condensation nuclei - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Whoopy do , I am sure this has a lot to do with cleaning oil , or is this about egos

sounds like a heap of university types trying to show how smart they are.

but it is of little help in actualy getting glens oil clean.