Thread: which CSM for cypress?

I have a MS362 with the biggest bar recommended for the chainsaw.

The bar is 25", so possibly not the ideal chainsaw for the log sizes you are considering.

Cypress should be no drama so nothing special is needed for them

Those size trees are definitely 90cc territory if he uses the 362 on that he is likely to kill it.

Either a Stihl 660/1 or Husky 395 would be my go to saws for that size.

Regarding a mill folks on arborisite have been discussing these Granberg knock offs
Tools and Accessories | Portable Chainsaw Mill
Discussion here.
Granberg vs. Holzforma 36" Alaskan Mill (A Comparison) | Arboristsite.com
DOn't know if you can get them in Oz or not.

Thanks for responding guys - I passed on the info to the young bloke, he didn't really like the idea of buying a bigger saw but he may see the light when he realises the smaller saw could die a premature death.

I said buy the ebay portable mill and use the money saved to buy a bigger 660/1 power head.

Ebay mill -

Brand New Chainsaw Mill suits up to a 36" bar. | eBay

Chainsaw Mill suits up to a 48" (120cm) bar. | eBay

If you have access to a welder (person or machine) a basic alaskan chainsaw mill is very easy to make. My first one cost only me about $20 (then I got fancy). Rather than just using a tool you learn a lot about what works and what doesn't.

Hey Bob, his F.I.Law is a boiley by trade, as a matter of fact the old bloke was 1/2 way through building a chainsaw mill using a 22hp petrol motor, he got the frame done, winches (raise and lower) engine trolley done, then he just stopped.

So i said to the young bloke try and use some of the frame and engine trolley etc, I have something the old fella wants, i might chew his ear about modifying it, don't like my chances, but asking won't hurt.

Other wise just buy the tubing etc and get the senior member (his older than me) to knock it up

The young fella went and brought the ebay csm, now some heads up info

1- Read the instructions twice or more.

2- DO NOT clamp on the nose sprocket, - yes I know, very silly, because it compresses the bar onto the sprocket and will F*(& the nose! lucky I said STOP after after he started it up.

3- Don't bother with the silly perspex guard, if you use the guard DON'T over-tighten because it will crack and break under the screws, but not tightening it enough, the nuts vibrate lose.

4- Get or grind the proper chain angle.

5- I can definitely see the advantages of the additional nose oilier.

We only milled a small cypress log 200mm wide using the bigger bar 24 or 25" what ever it is?

I kept saying to him there must be an easy way to flatten the log so the first cut is ok, does anyone do any special prep work, obviously remove any twigs branch stubs etc or do you just suk it and see?

The booklet does give some info on making timber rails etc but I just thought someone might have a quick/easy fix - hope that makes sense?

Stevo

Originally Posted by Not enough!!

2- DO NOT clamp on the nose sprocket, - yes I know, very silly, because it compresses the bar onto the sprocket and will F*(& the nose! lucky I said STOP after after he started it up.

You can clamp to the nose PROVIDED you drill the bar through the centre of the nose and put a short 6 mm tensile bolt through the hole and add a nut. Tighten the nut 0 you cant damage anything as the stationary bearing race inside the nose is riveted to the bar. Cut the excess thread off the bolt and drill a shallow (2mm) hole the width of the bolt head and nut and clamp (hard) onto the bolt.
The description above is option #4 in the picture below. As you can see there are lots of the options. Number 8 is the best since it allows the chain to be removed from the bar without removing the saw from the mill.

You could sandwich a 3mm thick disc of metal between the nose and the clamp but I would not trust it to stay there.



Nose-options.jpg

I kept saying to him there must be an easy way to flatten the log so the first cut is ok, does anyone do any special prep work, obviously remove any twigs branch stubs etc or do you just suk it and see?.

This is done using what are know as log rails.
Do to the arborisite and look at the first thread (sticky) and you will see heaps of log rails designs including a couple of mine
CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks | Arboristsite.com

BTW I use log rails on EVERY cut because there are so many advantages.
Using log rails that overhand the start and finish of the cut provide a convenient place to start and stop the powerhead so it can cool off.
It's much easier to start the powerhead in this position
Wholesaw.jpg
There is less resistance/friction between a mill and metal log rails so a small slope on the log allows the mill to slide down more easily than over rough wood.
Sawdust on top of the previous cut should be cleaned off so the rails sit flush to the top
Log rails enable stuff like wedges and a hammer to be placed on the top log as the mill will slide over the top of these because it is on the rails.
Log rails allow for easy correction of any twist or bend in the previous cut using small wedges under the rails. If you make a bad cut and keep cutting over the top of this you will continue to make bad cuts.

Thanks Bob, I will show the young-un the above, just have to get him out of that 'bull at a gate" mind set, might take 10 years or more, he will be 40 then!

Originally Posted by Not enough!!

Thanks Bob, I will show the young-un the above, just have to get him out of that 'bull at a gate" mind set, might take 10 years or more, he will be 40 then!

My young bloke was a bit like that, quickly changing though. he's starting to get the idea than a bit of time spent preparing etc really pays off in the long run.