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Thread: How to deal with fresh cut logs?
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24th November 2018, 09:34 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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How to deal with fresh cut logs?
I dropped a Silky Oak for a friend this afternoon, and I would like to know the best way to deal with the logs. The main trunk was reasonably straight, and around 5m long and tapering from approx 450mm down to approx 300mm. I cut it in half to make it more manageable, and I painted the ends with whatever was on hand which was just a can of spray paint.
I probably can't get back there with the work truck until Wednesday, and assuming that I can work out a way to load them and get them home, how do I look after them?
I would like to give the ends a better coat of paint for starters, but what should I do after that? Get them milled green, or wait till they are dry? Cover them with something, or just leave them exposed to the elements?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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24th November 2018, 10:03 PM #2.
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The spray paint will be way too thin,
Get a couple of good coats of thick house paint on it.
After that it's neither here nor there.
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24th November 2018, 10:15 PM #3
Mill the timber green, protect the ends from drying too quickly by slathering them in wax or paint, sticker the milled boards to allow air flow across the faces and store them under cover but with some sort of ventilation.
Dai Sensei posted this handy milling guide Novice Milling Guide for Turning Blanks and Slabs Tables etcNothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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25th November 2018, 07:38 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks guys. I will try to get back there today with some better paint for the ends.
What would be the best way to mill logs of that size? I would like to recover some quarter sawn if possible, or would it be better off slabbed? I'm not a wood turner, so turning blanks aren't on my radar.
Also, regarding stickers, is it best to use the same timber for the stickers or is there something else that is better? I have seen timber with sticker marks across the boards and was told that the "wrong" stickers had been used.
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25th November 2018, 08:16 AM #5
Any clean and dry hardwood timber should be fine for the stickers although using green bits from the same tree shouldn’t be an issue; Bobl can probably answer that more definitively. Softwoods can be subject to fungal growth which can stain the boards, those “sticker marks” you saw may have been caused by using softwoods or green timber from a different species.
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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25th November 2018, 08:34 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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The main thing I found with Silky Oak was that it needs to have the pith taken out more than other timber I have milled. It moves and shrinks quite a lot when drying. Depending on what you envisage as the end use for the timber as to how thick to cut it, just slabbing it will not give you the best figure, it is really nice quarter sawn. Getting it quarter sawn could be a challenge with an Alaskan mill, better with a bandsaw mill (I’m not sure what you have at your disposal). I used Oregon for stickers and didn’t have an issue, keep the stack covered with a tarp or better still under cover in a carport out of the rain (not in a shed). Ratchet straps are your best friend, use them over each sticker and keep pulling them down as the stack dries to reduce warping.
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25th November 2018, 08:36 AM #7.
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Chief Tiff has it right.
Some sticker marks are cause by poorly ventilated storage so mould etc can appear around under stickers.
Sometimes sawdust left on the log under stickers causes the marks.
There's no "correct" way to Mill a log but here are a few generalities that you might find useful.
An all Quarter sawn log wastes a lot of timber, and all flat sawn log can end up with timber losses due to warping/cupping.
Am all slabbed log has at least one slab that is quarter sawn, or two slabs close to quarter sawn.
Milling thicker pieces rather than thinner can lead to few losses due to cracking and warping.
Flat, weighted, in a ventilated, out of the direct sun, storage space is advisable.
Silky oak is so soft it matters naught from a difficulty of milling perspective whether its sawn green or dry.
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25th November 2018, 11:12 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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I was thinking about trying to achieve this out of the larger of the two logs, and just slabbing the smaller one at 38mm.
Thoughts?
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25th November 2018, 11:42 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Personally, I would not cut down to 38mm.
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25th November 2018, 11:47 AM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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25th November 2018, 12:33 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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My own experience is that the thicker boards are more stable when drying, with less twist and shakes etc equals less overall waste as they can be resawn down to size as required.
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25th November 2018, 01:30 PM #12.
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25th November 2018, 05:26 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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I won't be doing it personally. Will most likely take it to a fella with a Lucas.
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25th November 2018, 06:32 PM #14.
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14th December 2018, 09:21 PM #15New Member
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Lyctus beetle likes silky oak sapwood. You need to remove sapwood or treat with borax. 25mm boards dry OK.
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