Thread: Electric chainsaw sharpener..

The one you have linked can go for as little as $30 on Ebay. There is a better one that is 350watt version with a number of blades that is better value.

Overall though, these are fine for your hobyist and work well, but not for the someone who regularly uses it or seriously into milling. The frame is plastic and does tend to flex slightly, and angles for sharpening can only be varied on one axis.

Depends on your ability, but hand filing, or sharpening with a stone in a dremmel also work.

Cheers

Montiee,

I find these pretty easy and very reliable to get consistent angles if you are doubtful about your free hand ability...

Hand file jig

Added bonus is wherever your saw goes it can go, pretty quick to chuck on the saw and give the chain a good sharpen, adjustable enough to take care of any angles needed for any chain.

But other wise I use one of those 'clip on' things to show the different angles the file should be at.

Most newbies I see buying these grinders are often disappointed because they are looking for a magic fix for their sharpening woes. Reality is much more complicated that this and there is no magic bullet and even a grinder will take practice to learn how to use properly.

Maintaining a sharp chain requires tools that can
a) fix a damaged chain where the cutting edges and angles may need to be completely reformed
b) sharpen a blunt chain maintaining the required cutting edges and angles
c) adjust the raker heights
d) lightly "touch up" cutters that have just lost their edge

Grinders, files, jigs like file and joint, depth gauges, filoplates, dremel and dremel type tools all have their uses but no single tool does everything perfectly.

Grinders are very good at a) and b) but cannot do c) completely, and require some skill to perform d). So they are not a complete solution but when I mangle a chain I head for the grinder.
While files can do the lot, unless they are used in jigs they require some skill to maintain angles etc. They are very slow at a) relatively slow at b), OK for c) and easy to use for d)
Dremel and dremel type tools are like files, in that they require some skill to maintain angles, and like grinders, in that they require a power supply. They are very useful and not hard to learn to use for d).

Depending on what is being cut, the cutters should be touched up after as little as a using tank full or two of fuel. Operators that only use grinders typically have a bunch of chains and swap out. But if you only have one or 2 chains you could be stuck with running just a few tankful of fuel before you have to take the chain off to sharpen - ie a PITA. On a chainsaw mill I can touch up a chain with a file faster than I can swap out most of my chains. I can do it a little faster with my Ddremel with the CS chain jig if I have power. Likewise with my 12V granberg sharpener and 12V battery pack but I still prefer to touch up by hand.
Attachment 119387
A battery powered dremel would be even more portable for touching up.

Most newbies are put off files by the level of skill they think that is required. It's not so much skill as practice. I don't think it takes much more practice to learn how to use a file well compared how to use a grinder well, especially for touching up. For sheer portability it is really worth learning how to use a file to be able to touch up in the field. If the chain cutter angles are already well formed by a grinder you just follow the existing angles and remove the cutter edge glint. The most critical angle is the top plate cutter which can be maintained using a simple file guide. I can show most people ho to touch up with a ile guide in about 5 minutes.

Despite all the above, grinders are very useful, and I am very please I have access to one especially for fixing damaged and really blunt chains, but a couple of things to be aware of.

I suggest not practicing on your new chain, find an old chain and practice on that. Most newbies I see using grinders tend to try and take to much metal off too quickly and overheat the cutters. My favorite was the newbie who somehow ground a cutter the other way! By the time he ground it back and evened up the cutter lengths he had lost 1/2 of his cutter lengths. If this happens just leave it short, you won't notice one cutter being shorter, eventually the others will catch up to it.

Those cheaper grinders don't automatically file the left and right cutters to the same length (my limited experience is the more expensive ones are not that exact either), some adjustment is required when doing the left and right cutters.

It is possible to just touch up with a grinder but it takes quite a bit of practice, maybe even as long as learning how to touch up by hand . Just enough metal has to be shaved off to remove chain cutter edge glint - sure one can take more but that's just $ down the drain. Being able to see chain cutter edge glint also means having really good lighting and because grinders are typically used indoors where lighting is poor and the grinder often shadows the chain it means setting up extra lighting. The best place to do this is actually outside.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

There is a better one that is 350watt version with a number of blades that is better value.

Mind pointing me to it. I can't really see what you are referring to..

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Overall though, these are fine for your hobyist and work well, but not for the someone who regularly uses it or seriously into milling. The frame is plastic and does tend to flex slightly, and angles for sharpening can only be varied on one axis.

Yeh I don't expect it to last a lifetime. I'm in place atm where I'm not going to be using it regularly. I also like buying something cheaper first time round when I'm not suire because I find it teaches me what the shortcomings are and what is imoprtant should I really find it useful.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Depends on your ability, but hand filing, or sharpening with a stone in a dremmel also work.
Cheers

Might look into the dremel option also but I like the electric sharpener since it has more chance of ensuring the angle is right and is quicker. I'd rather carry 3 chains and swap them over than sharpening after a tankful.

Originally Posted by montiee

Mind pointing me to it. I can't really see what you are referring to...

See here or here for a few - wait for ones to bid for, rather than buy now, as there are heaps and you can bid low. Just type in chainsaw sharpener and there are heaps all the time.

Here's one similar to the one I got but when it was offered with 6 baldes of each size, I got it for similar cost delivered after months of bidding - the others went for $150-350. It is certainly a more solid unit with heavy duty motor, and can vary grind angles on 2 axes, but still not perfect.

I also have files and grind stones, but I am a self confessed tool addict

montiee ,

I am in a similar situation to you

have a chain saw

use it in-frequently

tried the file , reasonable but lacking

got one from Aldi on special , plastic etc , like a drop saw

good enough for me

Well I ended up going for the $99 one ((here). Probably overkill for me but didn't seem too bad. Will order another 3 chains and it should do me for life :lol

Funny how we're all different .
For one person a $150 chainsaw needs a $99 grinder (and a flat file to tidy the rakers)
For someone else a $1500 chainsaw needs a $1 round file (and a flat file to tidy the rakers)

Seriously I'd be interested to hear how you get on and how it works out for you.

I have to admit, it's taken a while, but I'm pretty happy with my sharpening ability on chains now, they get me through what I need 'em for. It did take a bit of practice, but my first experiences with sending 'em off to be sharpened wasn't good. Doing 'em yourself I figure saves you a heap of money, not just the sharpening cost to get someone else to do 'em, but also the extra chain costs needed to carry enough chains to get you through the work you are doing before being able to get your chains dropped off and re-sharpened.

My experience has been hand files for the last 5 years, then a small 12volt grinder, and most recently at an auction got a genuine Oregon bench grinder for $220. In my opinion a chainsaw, whether a cheapy or not is USELESS without a sharp chain, so spending money on sharpening gear is essential, just like any other woodworking gear, from chisels to planers to bandsaws. You have to become self-sufficient at some point, or it costs too much. I'm going down the path of taking three bench-ground chains out for a days work with me, and if that doesn't make it, a few touch-ups with the 12 volt grinder or hand file will see me through. I think everyone should know how to sharpen a chain with a handfile first.

Originally Posted by BobL

Funny how we're all different .
For one person a $150 chainsaw needs a $99 grinder (and a flat file to tidy the rakers)
For someone else a $1500 chainsaw needs a $1 round file (and a flat file to tidy the rakers)

The most important part of the tool is the blade. It's the bit that does the cutting. If it's cactus then you are wasting fuel, chain oil and putting undue stress on the engine wearing it out faster. I'd rather spend equal amounts on the saw and grinder than pay a tonne for a saw and then skimp using a $1 file to maintian the most important part of the whole operation.

Could I have used a round file. Sure. Just like I could walk to work everyday instead of driving. I already spent a good 30 minutes sharpening the blade with a round file and it's in a half decent state but from what I can see it'll take another 30 minutes of work to get it back to 100%. To me that tells me that 60 minutes of fussing around bringing a rooted chain to new condition vs the 10 minutes it will take is a good investment. Even after spending an hour I wonder if it would be as sharp as when I got it new just because I'm not a machine and that accurate.

I know people swear by the file but the simple fact of life is that most end up taking it to the shop anyway to get it ground back and aligned, half of which no doubt was a result of the free hand filing done :lol. I'm not big on getting some weekend kid in screwing my chains up. I've had enough rip off experiences at various mower joints that I no longer bother visiting to get anything repaired. Once you do it yourself you konw you've done it right.

The $150 chainsaw itself performed like a champ over 2 solid days. Can't fault it and would buy another in a second.

Originally Posted by BobL

Seriously I'd be interested to hear how you get on and how it works out for you.

In what way. The $150 chainsaw was fantastic. Really, really great. Didn't miss a beat. I was working along with a friend to fell a tree (fairly large) that was dry and the family worried about it coming down in a storm and when he used it he was exceptionally impressed. The comment was that it performed as good as the stihls he has access too. When I got around to using it it had a heap of grunt and cut through that hardwood like butter until the saw chain basically dulled to the point where it couldn't cut bark on the second days work :lol:.

If the grinder can get back the original chain, and I can't see how it won't, then I'll be exceptionally happy with the entire package I have for the chainsaw, all for a measley $250 all up. Job quoted by pro was $650 and that was the cheapest. Most were quoting around $850 for the work. None included cutting the wood into firewood sized chunks.

Originally Posted by Sigidi

I have to admit, it's taken a while, but I'm pretty happy with my sharpening ability on chains now, they get me through what I need 'em for.

See I don't want to bother with it. I will use them so infrequently that I probably will never really "master" it to get optimum results. It takes a hell of a long time for me to sharpen the chain to get it to a point where I can cut myself on it and I'm hoping the grinder will just get it done with minimal fuss.

Originally Posted by Sigidi

I
It did take a bit of practice, but my first experiences with sending 'em off to be sharpened wasn't good. Doing 'em yourself I figure saves you a heap of money, not just the sharpening cost to get someone else to do 'em, but also the extra chain costs needed to carry enough chains to get you through the work you are doing before being able to get your chains dropped off and re-sharpened.

Chains cost $20 a piece. Buy 3. I doubt you'll go through 3 in a day. I was cutting some seriously hard wood and totally dry and my chain lasted 8 hours of cutting with NO sharpening. Once you are finished for the day go and grind up the used chain to bring it back to new. I think it's a waste of time filing away after every job for an hour plus given a grinder can be had for so cheap. Your filing may be adequate for the saw to keep cutting but I doubt it's optimal meaning you are spending more time and effort than you need to along with the time and effort of sharpening out in the field.

My neighbor has a small small engine shop and uses a China made
sharpener from Harbor Freight and has had it several years without
any problems.

Do they had any thing like that down there?

Look here:

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I managed a equipment rental shop for several years
and we had a high $ one and it was no better than the
man running it. Same with the low $ I am sure. It takes
time, rushing it just messes up everything.

We have similar grinders here. I have one which I used for some time until I could get an Oregon unit, now I just use it to do the raker heights.

You can get good results with the cheap unit, but it takes a lot longer and much more care and attention on the part of the operator. If you abuse your chain, you'll take up to half an hour or more to bring it back into shape without overheating and "bluing" the cutting edge. The Oregon is much faster.

When you compare the price though, the cheapies are a bargain at perhaps a tenth of the price of the genuine article.

I've always done my mill chains by hand until I got the oregon, now they go through too.