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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    The crotch standing is the other half of the tree . I wonder how long that will stand up ??

    Its half though ( do you mean that one ?) is lying down and I cut that off the end of the log, then had to cut another 400mm off the log to give me room to get the mill in . plenty of rot in there any way .
    Attachment 407189
    There is some curly Roots attached to that end bit, lots of dirt inclusions though . I may have a poke around and see what I can get off it . I probably will saw the whole thing up a bit more so its parts can either be taken or moved to the burn pile so the farmers are happy with the clean up . There is a chance my new saw spanner is in there somewhere as well , its missing .
    I got a big pile of wood and they wanted the tree gone . It sure saved them a lot of work and I'm happy!
    Rob
    Rob the piece above.
    It has colour and would cut nice for turning or anything really I guess. Some of us strange we like voids admittedly thats void is oversized LOL.

    A life time of wood I'd say still drooling. I got my first taste of Elm from Hughie have one more piece yet to turn but need to decide what to do.

    The spanner get a bloody strong magnet or vacuum or a metal detector or just run chainsaw through the dust it'll find it for sure.

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  3. #32
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    Sep 2013
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    Cherrybrook,NSW
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    you could saw the rotten section up into bowl blanks or blocks for wood turners/pen turners

  4. #33
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Collector View Post
    you could saw the rotten section up into bowl blanks or blocks for wood turners/pen turners

    Yeah , Last trip to the tree tomorrow so I'll grab what I can. I can imagine Bowls being of interest but Pens from Elm ? I'm used to seeing figured woods for pens, from the little I have looked at .

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Port Sorell, Tasmania
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    Rob
    I have an Alaskan mill similar to yours. Have had one of the clamp come loose on a couple of occasions when in use. Have a nice piece of blackwood where the cut slab tapers off from 100 to 75 mm on one side over the last 2 m of length. Am mindful of this issue now and will often check the height part way through a cut. Use a 150 mm length of tube that will fit over the sliding t-bar to tighten and undo the nut. Make sure the clamp is sitting nice and square as it's being tightened.
    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  6. #35
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    Thanks Tony .
    I don't know if I'd get around to it but I can see some ways of improving the mill I have .
    Building a new one that suited my 42" bar would be nice as well Although it would be all steel as I don't weld aluminium, yet .
    One thing about the mill is its been made to adjust to different size bars so has all these extra adjustable points. I think Id be happy with just the 42" for any cutting . Its unlikely Id cut anything under 12 " . And Id still do that with the 42" The height cutting adjustment with the two nuts per U bolt would be nice with a knob that twisted one thread that tightened the U bolt at each end .

    Rob

  7. #36
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,757

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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Thanks Tony .
    I don't know if I'd get around to it but I can see some ways of improving the mill I have .
    Tips for improving a standard Alaskan mill
    CS Milling 101, Hints tips and tricks | Page 3 | Arboristsite.com

  8. #37
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    We were back for the last load and clean up today . I got stuck into the rotted base with roots and dirt and got a few pieces . It was a bit more figured but nothing special about it .
    IMG_3391.JPG
    The good thing was when I split the thing My spanner fell out !! Very happy with that ! I thought that was the last place I saw it , resting on top a few days back . And I tried looking and feeling into the deep splits but nothing ? Searched the car
    twice and raked up the sawdust searching as well .

    IMG_3389.JPG

    The left picture below was 11 days back and the right is today .
    IMG_3252.JPGIMG_3397.JPG

    One more load of half logs home today with some small freehand slabs as well.

    IMG_3395.JPG

    And this is the slabs resting on sleepers with sticks and ends painted. The whole lot got covered with second hand roof sheeting . I got Two other stacks of half logs and freehand slabs as well , stacked under another tree and covered up . With a rough guess Id say between 4 or 5 cubic meters of wood with the bark and sapwood taken off. And two of us worked roughly 5 days at it .
    IMG_3398.JPG

    Had a good time doing it as well , even if I did feel like Id been lifting logs all day .
    Rob

  9. #38
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    Sep 2010
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    Port Sorell, Tasmania
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    Rob
    Using the chainsaw mill does give a sense of satisfaction. However, I don't cut a lot of timber with my mill so I will put up with it's little annoyances. My preference is to have my timber milled by a professional at a proper mill. As you said, it's hard work and slow. But for the times its not practical to transport timber to a mill then I will have a go at it. To get the best out of a log requires a fair bit of turning of the log. Ill generally back cut blackwood and quarter saw most other hardwood. I don't have a loader and turning the flitches with chocks and crowbar is slow. Have even had to use a jack on a couple of big logs. When quarter sawing I use a basic cradle to hold the flitches once the log has been quartered.
    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  10. #39
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    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Good bit of work there, well done! You may be better off stacking the long lengths on top of each other and strapping them down (rather than 2 stacks) The more weight there is the less movement you will get.


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