Thread: Getting set to Mill?

Originally Posted by g_man

Questions[LIST=1][*]which C/S would be better? older 032 or newer 034[*]what gauge chain do I order? the std chain is a 3/8 but I was thinking of getting a narrower gauge to make cutting easier. skip tooth or not???[*]does the bar come in one standard size (gauge) or does it have to suit the gauge of the chain?

Which Saw: Newer is probably better but if you use the old one and blow it up you still have the new one!
Gauge/Bar: I'd be looking at an 0.050" bar groove matched with a low profile chain.

Thanks Bobl, Low profile is the term I was looking for.
Some of the guys on the forum talk about de-tuning the saw a little to save the motor working so hard, does running a richer fuel mix have a similar effect. eg 25:1 instead of 40:1

Originally Posted by g_man

Some of the guys on the forum talk about de-tuning the saw a little to save the motor working so hard, does running a richer fuel mix have a similar effect. eg 25:1 instead of 40:1

By detuning and richer they mean increase the fuel to air ratio, changing the fuel to 2-stroke mix is not the same thing.

gady mate.

i run an alaskan small log mill with my 034AV and 032AV.

i have a 25" bar on both saws. and witht eh ay the mill is made can cut timber up to 600mm diamiter with this bar. the 034av has no problems cutting a 600mm cut in any hardwood but it is a little slower than a larger saw.

i currently run 3/8" skip tooth chain. but am just about to order a 25" bar to run 3/8" low profile (stihl pico) chain. this will make the saw pull better and reduce wasteage. there is only one mob (in sweeden) that make bars for the stihls to run the low profile chain. (if we were to order 2 bars i am sure we would get a discount).

where abouts are you?

feel free to give me a call with any questions i am always happy to chat timber.

i would not recomend adjusting the saw to run ritcher it can cause overheating. i tried it on my 032 AV and it would not switch off. it would even keep running without the plug wire attached.

Carl, it just sounds you went a touch too far if the engine kept running.
Here is what a couple of very experienced millers on the other milling forum suggest:

This guy uses a 60" bar with an 088
"Set the high speed jet a little rich and mix your fuel richer than the saw manufacturer recommends (I run 32:1)"
and
this guy uses a 395 on a 36" mill
"As for whether to make the mix a little richer... gosh there are threads miles long over in the chainsaw section on both sides of that fence. I and many other csm'ers do run slightly richer mix on the big saws when milling, as well as tune the saws down a bit."

its jsut a matter of 1/th of a turn to take it from running fine to overheating and 1/8 turn back and it dosent rev properly. it seams to run fine as it is so ill leave it at that.

Weisyboy,
any idea how much they are selling the lower profile bar and chain for?
Where did you get your mill from? I hve had abit of a look on the net and with the exchange rate at the moment i should be able to get one from the states for about $300 delivered.
Will the 30" mill still work fine if I am only using a 20" bar?

i baught mine trew the local chainsaw mob. cots me way more tehn i should have thow. i did not know that then thow.

a 30" alaskan can be fitter to any bar no matter how short.

20" bar is $99 (aus)
25" bar is $154 (aus)
the sprocket you will need also costs $77 (aus)

all prices are inc gst plus postage from melbourne. i can get them threw a mate in melbourne.