Thread: Home Made Milling Attachment on MS880

Thanks for the pics, Given you have the log on a slight slope, if your chain is set right and the 880 is such a powerful saw it should not need a winch as that saw and mill should go down the slope virtually by itself.

1.5mm = 0.06" (or 60 thou) sounds a bit much for rakers how are you measuring this?

If normal raker setting is 0.025" then you are operating at 2.5x lower rakers than usual.
Depending on your top plate angle at that raker depth the saw will either be grabby, or vibrate like hell which will lead to much more wear and tear on the B&C than necessary.

If you wish, post a close up full side on photo of a cutter or two as per below and I can give you a diagnosis to optimise your cutting operation.
BBs-chain.jpg

Hi BobL,

Thanks for the input mate but I reckon I have the saw cutting ok as it is, for how I use it anyways. I use the same B&C combo for ripping split posts (ironbark) as for when slabbing smaller logs such as that in the pics. When I first purchased the saw I originally started with standard raker height and worked my way down to where it is now and this is where I get the most suitable results. When ripping posts the finish on the sides is not that important, what is important is speed and usability. More posts per day = more $$$!!! With the rakers set as they are the saw is pretty well lugging itself into the logs at just the right amount of "pull", meaning it is a hell of a lot easier on my legs and back.

If I was slabbing all day long then I wouldn't have as deep a set on the rakers, but since I do 95% ripping and 5% slabbing then this is the depth that I have my chain loops set to.

Having said that though, I should probably do as you suggest and make a couple of loops with a reduced raker height and compare the difference, perhaps post the results along with some pics???

As for the winch, I use it on timber that is sitting out in the bush that I cannot get up onto an angle so the saw can run downhill. Again, a lot easier on my back and legs. I have a 64" GB bar on the way to hook into a few bigger logs so will definitely use the winch on these.

I also did a personal comparo after reading another one of your posts on here regarding questions that folks were asking about what chain to run (full chisel vs semi chisel), what angles to set them at (10 degrees vs 30 degrees), skip tooth vs standard, etc. I did this whilst ripping, not slabbing so I guess the results will differ slightly. However I can confidently say that for my operations of ripping hardwood posts, the semi chisel skip tooth at 10 degrees is the most efficient way to go, especially on these big saws. Very little vibration, plenty of big fat chips flying out, reasonable time between the need to sharpen the chain, etc.

And the 880 is a beast to say the least. A little heavier than my old 660, but for an extra kilo or two I would much rather lug this b!tch around the scrub any day!!!

Thanks again though mate for your suggestions, very much appreciated...

Matt

Looks and sounds familiar (re development). One thing I'm doing next is drilling holes directly through the bar so it can be bolted directly to the milling frame rather than clamped. Clamps are a pain when it comes to setting up, especially with a 880, and changing chains.

Dai Senei,

Yep, drilling the bar is definitely the best way to go for sure as far as the mounting goes. I had previously set a milling attachment on the 660 with holes drilled in the bar but i ran over it with the cruiser and buggered it. But can change a chain loop without removing the attachment, easier to get a file in to sharpen, etc.

Once the 64" GB bar arrives for the 880 I will whip up a milling setup for it too, probably with holes drilled... Will see how I feel on the day I guess!!!!

Matt

I only hand sharpen 3 times then change the chain as the cutting is definitely not as good (more about my hand sharpening, although I am getting better). I run a 660 on up to a 60" bar (slowly and carefully, plus not too often) so found the winch a huge help. The main issue is getting the winch to pull in line with the bar otherwise any angle and your cut digs in. My set-up works but still needs some strengthening and refinement.