Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default Joining Chain for a 42" bar

    Hi.

    I got my 100 ft roll of chain that I need to join for the 42" bar so I can use it in the Alaskan Mill. The sticker on the wrap for the bar says 135 link . The stamped bar says 134 link . Does it not matter which amount out of those two I count off before joining ?
    Ill just do the 134 ? so I have more room for stretch ? Or ??

    And My spinner hasn't arrived yet . I saw a US guy on Youtube called chainsaw guy explaining the way the old loggers repaired , Broke and rejoined chains in the forest on a stump, the rejoining was very simple , just peen over the rivets with a hammer . Ive got an anvil and hammers . Any one see any problems joining up a new chain this old way ? same as I did my bike chains as a kid. should I just put a drop of oil in and join it up with the 135 / 134? link count .

    If I can get some joined tonight it means I can go use the mill tomorrow . If I really had to wait for the spinner it would mean going back Tuesday if it arrives Monday.

    Rob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    This is the old way of breaking and joining I saw from You Tube .

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwJ7U8mAGJc


    Rob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    You can join it that way but I would practice on an old chain first. If you peen it too hard and it jams its a PITA to fix.
    When you do it peen it a little and makes sure it can move , repeat until its snug but form.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Thanks Bob .

    I dropped my saw off at the Stihl dealer yesterday because the dealer said "Drop it back after 4 hours use and well check it over" Went back this morning and they had been Robbed , a smash and grab at 3.30 AM . Really glad they didn't grab my saw !!! I wonder if I would have got another one ? I didn't ask . Every new saw on the shelves was taken . Hope the *** holes get caught .

    The joining worked , I didn't have old chain to practice on so just went with the new stuff . First I joined it up at 134 DL. It didn't fit . so I cut it and added another DL then over did the peening , cut again. Finally got it together and went and cut some wood to just run the chain in and feel how it worked before I regrind the teeth to 10 degree. Big thing with the 42 " bar on . Be a job carting that all over a rain forest!

    Rob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
    Age
    66
    Posts
    10,766

    Default

    Not sure how much chain you have, but keep some at normal grind for docking those bigger logs. I would not regrind straight away anyway, do it gradually as the chain needs sharpening. BTW the 10 degrees may give a better finish but it will be harder on the saw.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    Not sure how much chain you have, but keep some at normal grind for docking those bigger logs. I would not regrind straight away anyway, do it gradually as the chain needs sharpening. BTW the 10 degrees may give a better finish but it will be harder on the saw.
    Ive got plenty left , this is the first length off a 100 foot roll . I want to have sharp chains at the ready forchanging over so maybe 6 or 8 ? and Ill leave some for the cross cutting .

    I'm hoping the difference in the angle from 30 to 10 will feel as good and efficient at ripping as a hand saw does when you try and rip with a cross cut hand saw and then pick up a proper rip hand saw. I'm looking forward to trying both grinds at the slabbing and seeing how it feels.

    Rob

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Ive got plenty left , this is the first length off a 100 foot roll . I want to have sharp chains at the ready forchanging over so maybe 6 or 8 ? and Ill leave some for the cross cutting .
    I did the chains swapping thing on my first mill a few times and then gave up because I found it a right PITA.

    To maintain optimum cutting speed and minimise the load on the saw in Aussie hardwoods I found I had to touch up the chain after almost every tankful of fuel.
    Swapping the chain involves removing the saw from the mill, swapping the chain, inserting it back into the mill, and re-tensioning etc.
    The constant loosening and tightening of the bar clamps increased the risk of forgetting to fully tighten the clamps and I ended up putting a chain through the clamp bolts.

    On my small mill I started out with 4 chains and found that was not enough.
    On a biggish log (e.g. 36" diameter) you might use a tank of fuel per slab and cut ~15 x 2" slabs.
    The top and bottom cuts will be narrow enough to ignore but that still leaves a dozen slabs - do you really want to set yourself up with that many chains? There has to be a better way.

    The first mill I made used standard bar clamps but I speeded up the chain swapping by modifying the mill so the saw did not have to be removed from the mill.
    I removed the lower part of the bar clamps and the bolts, drilled and tapped the upper part of the clamps and drilled holes in the bar which allowed the bar to be directly to the mill.
    This also prevents the chain ever touching a bar clamp bolt.

    Now all my mills have this feature, but I have still found it's quicker to learn how to touch up the cutters and the rakers while the saw is on the mill, than it is to swap the chain.
    I use files, but one of those 12V rotary sharpeners will do the trick for the cutters.

    I only ever touch up just to remove glint from the cutter edge, usually 2/3 swipes per cutter is all that is needed, and every 3-4 tanks of fuel I give the rakers 2/3 swipes.
    After a while you get to be way quicker than swapping chains.
    I can touch up the cutters on a 42" chain (68 cutters) in under 3.5 minutes. Even my 60" bars only take 6 minutes.

    I have a low portable trestle table and a plastic chair I take with me so I can service the saw and sharpen while sitting down.
    I also have one of those Al work platforms that I keep in the van and use that to put tool boxes and gear on so I am not bending over all the time.

    site2.jpg

    At the end of the day when I get back to the shed there's only one chain to sharpen.
    I do a full sharpen on the chain I used that day including setting the rakers using a method I won't go into here.
    I also turn the bar over, dress the bar if required, and put on a different chain
    This means I only need to keep 2-3 loops of chain on hand for each bar size so less storage is required.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Ok , now Im getting the feeling your right on this Bob .You have said it twice . The 12 Volt rotary is what I will need then.

    I haven't said it up to now but Ill admit it . I hate sharpening chainsaws that's with a file, unless I really have to . I know its the smartest way to sharpen , Ive read it and been told. The files don't last that long and the teeth are hard!
    Ive got one of those grinders for chains , the little drop saw looking things .

    You even have a Dingo out there!! You must be surrounded by a huge Hardwood mountain unless you sell the wood off .

    That lumpy log on the right looks nice . Is it Jarrah ?

    Rob

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Ok , now Im getting the feeling your right on this Bob .You have said it twice . The 12 Volt rotary is what I will need then.

    I haven't said it up to now but Ill admit it . I hate sharpening chainsaws that's with a file, unless I really have to . I know its the smartest way to sharpen , Ive read it and been told. The files don't last that long and the teeth are hard!
    Ive got one of those grinders for chains , the little drop saw looking things .
    I'm not a fan of grinders, no matter what I do they seem to remove far too much metal - my chains last a longer if I file them. I like using files so can understand if folks hate using files why they might use a grinder.


    You even have a Dingo out there!! You must be surrounded by a huge Hardwood mountain unless you sell the wood off .
    I wish is was my Dingo. They logs and the dingo are on a property down south that belong to friends. I've milled about 30 logs for them - mainly small ones.
    I have milled many logs and sold a few and used hardly any myself - that's why I haven't been milling anything lately.

    That lumpy log on the right looks nice . Is it Jarrah ?
    Yes it was Jarrah. It was a bit ratty but we got enough good stuff out of it to make this.
    From log to workbench

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post

    Yes it was Jarrah. It was a bit ratty but we got enough good stuff out of it to make this.
    From log to workbench
    Nice solid bench Bob .
    Same wood ( Jarrah ) I did my workbench from but I didn't mill it . Mine was re used from some winery that was pulled down some time mid eighty's I think ? . I bought the wood of a guy who had something to do with the salvage .

Similar Threads

  1. Chain saw Chain Quality
    By STAR in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 40
    Last Post: 6th March 2012, 07:20 AM
  2. Breaking down & joining chain.
    By STAR in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 23rd July 2011, 06:21 PM
  3. eBay: How long can you "Save" the "Draft"-listing of an item you want to sell?...
    By Batpig in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORK
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 22nd January 2011, 06:04 PM
  4. holz her edgebander "overload feed chain"
    By himself in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 19th May 2005, 10:01 PM
  5. Chain "anchors" in concrete...
    By dallas in forum CONCRETING
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 25th March 2005, 12:14 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •