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26th June 2009, 09:15 PM #1
loading logs by hand the easy way.
I have been asked so many times how I load logs onto my trailer that I thought id do the thread iv been promising for ages.
Here is a pic of how I do it.
Attachment 109078
So you park up alongside the log about 2-3m way (depending on your ramps).
Attachment 109079
Take the rope from your winch from the far side of the trailer over the top of the log.
Attachment 109080
Around the back of the log and back threw underneath the log.
Attachment 109081
Take to hook right back over to the far side of the trailer and hook it on.
Attachment 109082
As you winch the rope is not pulling the log it is rolling it. This is because the rope is pulling up on the back of the log and along the top the rope underneath is not moving at all.
Attachment 109083
It is very simple. The only thing that you need to learn is to pick the rolling balance point of your log. Too far to one end and it will go round in a circle. You need to be slightly closer to the big end as the big end goes faster but not to far as the big end is also heavier.
I use this method to load log onto my trailer, move logs around when on site, and load big logs into the mill.
Many people load log onto their trailer winching them from the end. Using this method puts an enormous amount of weight on the back end of the trailer or truck. Also you cannot pull a log any ware near as big a log as you can roll.
I have a 1.5ton wire rope winch (turfir type) and I have rolled a 4 ton log with it no trouble. There is no way in hell you would roll a log that size with a cant hook.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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26th June 2009 09:15 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th June 2009, 11:00 PM #2
Depending upon the slope, and the size of the log, this method works for hand pulling too. If the log is reasonably round, the mechanical advantage is automatically 2:1, because the diameter is twice the radius. I've used it on sloping ground, but I had to drill a hole (earth auger in a battery drill) under the log for passage of the anchor end of the rope. To avoid untying the anchor end (at a nearby tree), I pushed a length of "rigid" electrical wire through the hole, and temporarily twisted it around the free end of the rope.
Works a treat.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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26th June 2009, 11:01 PM #3
Thanks for that Carl, good advice
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26th June 2009, 11:43 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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nice work carl
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27th June 2009, 12:08 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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That is the same way log trucks could load themselves years ago, except they would have a big tree or stump to anchor to midway along the jinker.
regards inter
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27th June 2009, 12:19 AM #62-legged animal
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Hey really good .Got any more tricks up ur sleeves? how about rolling them under ur mill ,same method??
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27th June 2009, 01:26 AM #7New Member
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thanks for the info
Hi weisyboy,
Thanks for the detailed pics etc..
Looks like you have it down packed.
One question, how the hell do you get them out of the backyard to the front yard in narrow passage ways?
I was thinking of grabbing a few logs from a tree lopper i know but that would be a major issue. any solutions?
thanks,
Peter
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27th June 2009, 02:38 AM #8
With a lot of sweat and grunt or mill them on site.
This thread shows me recovering a Silky Oak log which had limited access.Cheers
DJ
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27th June 2009, 02:41 AM #9.
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27th June 2009, 09:37 AM #10
i use this for loading big logs onto the bolsters to mill.
it can also be done by hand as joe said only with mutch smaller logs.
we used to have a blitz 6 x 6 and a shevy tandem axle truck when we were falling oput of the forestry here. this is the way we loaded the logs. either pulling to logs with teh other truck or with the mid mount winch.
at cetain locations there were soil ramps where we could snig the logs to and load them with the little dozer.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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27th June 2009, 12:02 PM #11
Matt, I've rolled some pretty serious sized logs into my mill, just using can't hook, iron bar and a good shaped wedge of some kind. That is my log handling arsenal, nothing more, nothing less. Some logs you don't need the wedge, they roll pretty straight, some you need it to turn the log parallel with the mill. I only use the iron bar to 'hold' the log while I take a new bite with the hook, also the iron bar is used to hold the log from 'running away'
All my logs get rolled into the mill and lifted onto 6" high bolsters using those 3 bits. I do it regularly on my own without winches or machines.
Hey Carl, good on ya, I tried doing this with the first log I scored - instead of the log coming up into the trailer, the trailer tipped over to the log yeah it was attached to the vehicle, but I figured out early on, moving logs is not a small taskI love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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27th June 2009, 03:50 PM #12Skwair2rownd
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Good illustrations Carl.
You been to art classes?
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5th July 2009, 10:54 PM #13
And here is how to unload them, to load them I just picked them up.................. with a backhoe
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5th July 2009, 11:14 PM #14
i just roll mine off. got a dirt ramp thet lifts one side of the trailer when i back up on it. just untie them and back up then drive away.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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10th July 2009, 11:44 PM #15
This is all great advice.
I picked up a Lucas 1030 a few weeks ago and although i have been cutting boards out of smaller size logs without any trouble, it wasnt untill the other day when i slabbed a log of a bigger size (still not anything massive) that i realised i was in trouble. If the farmer hadnt been there with the tractor im not sure how we would have gotten the slabs on the trailer.
Has anyone got any addvice on moveing slabs on and off the trailer.
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