Thread: Redgum Log

that should keep you off the streets for an hour or two or at least till smoko.
good thing about timber that old would be the fact thats its already done most of its drying .

while im here laurie when these bars get here i will have to drill them to fit the mill and for the aux oiler ,'(all yet to be built)
is there any special trick to drilling them or just nice slow speed on the drill , never drilled a bar before .
i have some trefolux ( spell ) cutting compound which should help.
then just a matter of marking where the roller is and staying far enough away so as not to impede its function

do bars work harden like stainless does when drilled

Originally Posted by texx

while im here laurie when these bars get here i will have to drill them to fit the mill and for the aux oiler ,'(all yet to be built)
is there any special trick to drilling them or just nice slow speed on the drill , never drilled a bar before .
i have some trefolux ( spell ) cutting compound which should help.

Trefolex is specifically mean for hand tool operation and should not be used on machinery because is breaks down and the vapours are poisonsous. I've used it on a lathe at slow speed but it still made me gag.

I have drilled a number of bars with bits sizes ranging from 5 to 12 mm. There are two approaches both involve using a drill press and lots of water soluble oil as a lube.

One involves using a carbide tipped (masonry) bit. I use old bits but even new bits should be touched up so they have a good edge. For a 5/16 bit I used a slow speed (160 rpm) for 120 rpm for the 1/2". It's best to maintain enough pressure so that the bit keeps cutting - if the bit rubs without cutting the steel work hardens and is even harder to cut. The pressure required to maintain cutting is high but if you go too high the carbide will disintegrate!

The other involves using a cobalt HSS alloy bit. Same method as for the carbide bit, high pressure, slow speed. I use brand new bits - a bit exy but guaranteed to work

thanks bob .
i'll "git er done" one way or another

just remembered i have some other cutting compound some where if i can find it .
my old neighbor gave it to me years ago it is for machine tools.
he was the machine shop supervisor for rheem australia .bloody handy to have as a neighbor he was .
he would do metal machining for me and i would turn wooden plugs for him for making castings

sawchain is there any chance of a pic of the double power head and bar? i wouldn't mind seeing that

Originally Posted by texx

is there any special trick to drilling them or just nice slow speed on the drill , never drilled a bar before .

Hi Johno

Like Bob said, nice n slow, plenty of lube, tungsten bits - the titanium alloy is bloody hard.

I am not looking forward to slabbing the log - it will be difficult with a CSM, however I want full width slabs.

Laurie

Originally Posted by charlsie

sawchain is there any chance of a pic of the double power head and bar? i wouldn't mind seeing that

Hi Charlsie
I have the DE bar on order, and one of my 880 powerheads is at the stihl dealer after the piston decided to disintegrate, lucky i have 2 months warranty left - I think it was a friday afternoon saw as I have had a few problems with it and am ready to stick it in someones a*se.

pics when it's all here.
Laurie