Thread: Saw size and bar length

I'm using a Stihl 038 Magnum which from memory is 66 or 68cc with a 20" 3/8" bar and 25" bar for when I need that extra bit.

This has done just about every log bar a couple, but my next saw will probably be a 066 with 20", 30" and maybe a 42" bars.

But whatever you decide on, I'd aim for a minimum of 70cc's

i have a 034 with 25" bar and it can handle any log i hae thrown at it so far. i have cut logs up to 1.2m diameter. a saw any bigger and you are just wasting energy unless you have monster logs.

I run a Husqvuarna 395xp (94cc) bought new in August 2006 for $1899 with 28inch bar and 3/8 chain to crosscut and fall trees and 42" .404 pitch to mill with. I had no problems so far, good power to weight and excellent to mill with.

Compliments the new 6-18 lucas beautifully

Shayne

Originally Posted by weisyboy

. . . . . . a saw any bigger and you are just wasting energy unless you have monster logs.

Awe, comeon Carl, I can't believe you're that green! Hang the fuel, you know you would rather be fanging around with the saw with the biggest possible donk you could get your hands on! Think of all that PPE you could leave aside and increased risks you could take with a big saw

Jokes aside, a 20" bar with a very well sharpened chain on a 50 cc saw will get you a hell of a long way!

Originally Posted by Burnsy

I am interested in what people are using to buck logs and what size the logs are. With the new lucas on its way I am looking at my options regarding chainsaws. I currently own a Jonsered 2050 with an 18 inch .325 bar and have access to a Stihl 310 with a 20 inch 3/8 bar. As I have just spent a large sum on the mill, a chainsaw upgrade is going to have to wait until the business is making money. Until then I intend on buyig a new bar and chain from sawchain that will get me by with the above saws and fit onto a future power head upgrade.

What length bar are people finding adequate for bucking what size logs and what powerhead do they have on it?

Would like to buy once and make it last when it comes to a new bar and chain, it is only for bucking and should not see that much use as I intend to mill most logs as they come from the tree loppers.

I am a retired chain saw mech. and jonsered dealer. I would say that a jonsered , husky,or sthil 60 cc with 20" bar would be good . but a 65cc with a 24" bar is better. And would suit your needs and keep you happy. Keep your chain tight, your chain sharp, your rakers the correct height. And the rails in your bar level. Be sure your bar has a roller nose. Have fun.

Originally Posted by Lone Duck

I am a retired chain saw mech. and jonsered dealer. I would say that a jonsered , husky,or sthil 60 cc with 20" bar would be good . but a 65cc with a 24" bar is better. And would suit your needs and keep you happy. Keep your chain tight, your chain sharp, your rakers the correct height. And the rails in your bar level. Be sure your bar has a roller nose. Have fun.

Good stuff, the only thing I would slightly challenge is the roller nose. Our conditions here in Australia often require working in dirty dusty gritting conditions where a hard nose does have an advantage at times. Ideally one should have at least one hard nose bar in ones "bar arsenal".

i prefer sproket nose to roller nose.

I know I've already filled you in on what I think Mike, but for the others. I'm really happy with my 372XP with a 24" bar. I could run a longer bar, but it'd get stuck in the dirt too often. I've cut every thing I wanted to with it, 4 foot is a big bloody log to shove around for milling

have a 50cc echo 20in bar for trimming 2x757 shindaiwas 73cc with 20-24-28-36in bars yep will run a skip tooth chain in hardwood .and a 066 stihl 90cc 25&36in bars, for the big stuff , use mainly semi chisel but some full chisel chains . try to keep the same chains eg 058 x 3/8 on all the bars if you can . took years to get the saws , but gives you options if you have a choice ,try to get 2 of the same saws , around 70 cc then you can use the bars and chains on both of them . at least have a spare bar and chain if you have one saw, to get the bar out when you get it stuck , axes and chains are a poor mix . happy cutting bob

Originally Posted by weisyboy

i prefer sproket nose to roller nose.

My error, poor choice of words. I ment sprocket nose.

Here we go again, This is like asking what two stroke and how much to use.

If you are going to use a chainsaw for a particular job make sure the saw capacity and bar length match the job in hand.
Also sounds like some people cut up monster logs with mini chainsaws, While it can be done it usually takes a lot longer and works the saw and user way too hard.
I see all too often when someone uses a small saw and long bar like 60cc and 28", these saws were not designed to do this type of work, all that happens is the saw struggles and the job takes a while to complete.

I run 50 & 60cc saws with no more than 16" 3/8LP or 325 bar, my 72cc saws run 16 & 18" 3/8 although I did run a 25" bar on the 72 it is just slows the saw down.

Two of us just spent the last two days cutting Ironbark logs into 12" lengths, The timber varied from 10" up to 36" diameter, Saws I used were a 660 mag running 20" 3/8 skip and the larger saw an 880 running 30" 404 skip, My friend used a 372xp 18" 3/8 and a 395xp 24" 404, There was a very noticeable difference in cutting speed, with me being ahead by a considerable margin. Tonnage blocked up over the two days was about 50 ton.

Why do you think a lot of commercial cutters use saws in the 85 - 95cc class with bar lengths 20", This combination cuts fairly quick, Time is money when commercial cutting and we get paid by tonnage cut, We do not get paid to stand around scratching our ar$es or pounding keyboards.

In short, get a saw and bar combination that will more than handle the jobs you have to do or don't complain and try stretch things beyond what they were designed for.

Laurie

Originally Posted by Sawchain

Here we go again, This is like asking what two stroke and how much to use.

If you are going to use a chainsaw for a particular job make sure the saw capacity and bar length match the job in hand.
Also sounds like some people cut up monster logs with mini chainsaws, While it can be done it usually takes a lot longer and works the saw and user way too hard.
I see all too often when someone uses a small saw and long bar like 60cc and 28", these saws were not designed to do this type of work, all that happens is the saw struggles and the job takes a while to complete.

I run 50 & 60cc saws with no more than 16" 3/8LP or 325 bar, my 72cc saws run 16 & 18" 3/8 although I did run a 25" bar on the 72 it is just slows the saw down.

Two of us just spent the last two days cutting Ironbark logs into 12" lengths, The timber varied from 10" up to 36" diameter, Saws I used were a 660 mag running 20" 3/8 skip and the larger saw an 880 running 30" 404 skip, My friend used a 372xp 18" 3/8 and a 395xp 24" 404, There was a very noticeable difference in cutting speed, with me being ahead by a considerable margin. Tonnage blocked up over the two days was about 50 ton.

Why do you think a lot of commercial cutters use saws in the 85 - 95cc class with bar lengths 20", This combination cuts fairly quick, Time is money when commercial cutting and we get paid by tonnage cut, We do not get paid to stand around scratching our ar or pounding keyboards.

In short, get a saw and bar combination that will more than handle the jobs you have to do or don't complain and try stretch things beyond what they were designed for.

Laurie

The recommendation I made was not for a professional chain saw man. If he was ,he would not have asked the Question. The range of saw I suggested was for all around home and farm use with a reasonable price tag. I quite agree with you on the choice of saws if you are going to work professionaly . however I find 18" bars a pain in the back if you are land clearing. And working close to the ground. I will scratch what ever and when ever I want thank you. Even if I don't get paid for it. As for pounding a key board , I am more inclined to do the 1 finger peck.

Originally Posted by Lone Duck

The recommendation I made was not for a professional chain saw man. If he was ,he would not have asked the Question. The range of saw I suggested was for all around home and farm use with a reasonable price tag. I quite agree with you on the choice of saws if you are going to work professionaly . however I find 18" bars a pain in the back if you are land clearing. And working close to the ground. I will scratch what ever and when ever I want thank you. Even if I don't get paid for it. As for pounding a key board , I am more inclined to do the 1 finger peck.

All noted and I was not knocking your suggestion, Also the timber you cut is possibly not as hard as what we have in Australia, I did notice that when I was in Washington & Oregon the saws had much longer bars than we run on the same saws here due to the softer timber being cut.
However I still maintain that if you are going to use a saw for a job make sure it is the correct one. It doesn't matter to me whether I am cutting firewood for home, land clearing or commercial cutting, I still use a saw matched to what I am doing and certainly do not go for overkill, I just use something that will do the job comfortably, Do you think I enjoy swinging an MS880 with up to 50, 60" or longer bars for crosscut ?

You should also realise that a lot of the Aussie users on this forum are a little more than just around the home users, Particularly those that have a Lucas or Peterson mill.

Also cutting timber on the ground using the tip of the bar which you seem to do is a dangerous practice, you do not have anywhere as much control over the saw if you get kickback, and dirt and chains do not mix - tends to take the edge off them.So if you like to stick your tip in the ground so be it.

All I am saying is use the right tool for the job, Most of the forum members know the limitation of their saws and use them accordingly.

Laurie