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  1. #1
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    Wink So... engine oil vs chain oil

    Just for Bob's pleasure and because Travis brought it up....

    pro's and con's of engine oil versus chain oil on chainsaws....?

    Who does what? who mixes the two? just uses motor oil or just uses bar oil?







    Sorry Bob, I just had to...
    I love my Lucas!!

    ...just ask me!

    Allan.



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  3. #2
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    Bar oil in the chainies, cheapest motor oil I can find in the Lucas slabber.

    Hasn't this been done to death before?
    Cheers,
    Craig

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exador View Post
    Bar oil in the chainies, cheapest motor oil I can find in the Lucas slabber.

    Hasn't this been done to death before?
    Doesn't mean we can't do it all over again.

    Whether you use bar oil or not might depend on your chain speed. If the chain speed is high too much not-so-sticky oil will get flung off at the nose and not make it around to the cutting side.

    I use bar oil in the saw and canola in the Auxiliary oiler. The Auxiliary oil point is after the nose so the viscosity of it is not so relevant.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exador View Post
    Bar oil in the chainies, cheapest motor oil I can find in the Lucas slabber.
    Same here

  6. #5
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    depends where i am when i need to buy it.

    always cheep oil in the lucas slabber.

    and more often than not i run cheep engine oil in the chainsaws to.

    i have also been known to use 2 stoke oil.

    its all good

    Hardwood Sawmillers - Gatton,qld - 0417982589

  7. #6
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    Just bar oil in the saws.
    Peter

  8. #7
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    In the lucas & chainsaw the cheapest engine oil I can get, when I was falling full time I would get a 60l drum of used ATF at a time from the local auto transmission shop for nothing which would last a month or 2, If your using a chainsaw a lot & using bar oil the extra cost over the life of a bar would buy a couple of bars so really there is no point in using it.
    regards inter

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by InterTD6 View Post
    In the lucas & chainsaw the cheapest engine oil I can get, when I was falling full time I would get a 60l drum of used ATF at a time from the local auto transmission shop for nothing which would last a month or 2, If your using a chainsaw a lot & using bar oil the extra cost over the life of a bar would buy a couple of bars so really there is no point in using it.
    regards inter
    I've been offered ATF from time to time but I hate the rubbery feel of that stuff on my skin. After reading the MSDS for ATF that convinced me that its neither environmentally friendly and what little they do know about it, its not that good for you either - it's classed as having a moderate level toxicity, whatever that means. Every now and then one of my saw or my aux oilers leak oil in the back of my van and the whole van gets full of oil fumes - the thought of breathing in ATF fumes doesn't really thrill me. In environmental terms I know probably more gets spilt in workshops and on roads and highways every day than any one chainsaw users would use in a year but if everyone used it as bar oil that would only make the environmental contamination problems worse. What actually worries me more is what they do not know about it because no one has really studied it. Mind you, bar or any mineral oil is also no holy water or that good for us either. I'd prefer to use an all vegetable oil if I could get it cheap enough.

  10. #9
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    I have posted this before. For the last 30 years I have been using used sump oil that has been allowed to settle for at least 12 months.

    Admittedly I only use my chainsaw in the winter to get fire wood but my brother in law who has been using it for the last 45 years and he also cuts firewood as well as cutting mill logs for the local timber mill.

    I have only used about eight chains in 30 years and replaced my bar once.

    Another thing that I do is mix a product called Roil Metal conditioner in the oil as well as soak any new chains in it over night before I use them.

    Neways Australia the fourth product down.

    This Roil makes the chains and the bar run unbelievably cool. As well I also mix a bit in the fuel
    Regards Bazza

    Skype Username: bazzabushy

    "Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards."
    -Vernon Sanders Law

    The views expressed by the poster are general in nature and any advice should be taken in this vein. The poster accepts no responsibility if this advice is used. When undertaking any work personal professional advice should be sought from suitably qualified persons in the field of work being undertaken.


  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry_White View Post
    I have posted this before. For the last 30 years I have been using used sump oil that has been allowed to settle for at least 12 months. l
    For those that are not aware, sump oil (standing for 12 months or otherwise) has an even higher level of toxicity than ATF, new mineral, or bar oil.

    From an MSDS sheet on sump oil;
    Compared to new motor oil, used motor oil typically has a much higher concentration of carcinogenic compounds such as Poly-aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) that are formed as by-products of inefficient combustion reactions. Certain metals also of concern include:
    Cadmium,
    Chromium and
    Arsenic.
    As it is illegal to dispose of sump oil by dumping, so unless all the sawdust generated while using it is collected, using it in a CS probably technically means breaking the law.

  12. #11
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    did you know that sawdust is classed as noxious waste. dont ask me why but it is according to the epa.

    it was in teh papers iv just had to fil out for an environmental impact licence for the mill.

    any uncontaminated sawdust must be disposed of in an apropriate manner enclosed compost i remember is one, or it has to be removed by an approved person.

    contaminated sawdust (including any sawdust generated during slabbing, lubricated saw or chainsaw use) must be disposed of at a toxic waste dump.

    its a load of crap.

    Hardwood Sawmillers - Gatton,qld - 0417982589

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by weisyboy View Post
    did you know that sawdust is classed as noxious waste. dont ask me why but it is according to the epa.

    it was in teh papers iv just had to fil out for an environmental impact licence for the mill.

    any uncontaminated sawdust must be disposed of in an apropriate manner enclosed compost i remember is one, or it has to be removed by an approved person.

    contaminated sawdust (including any sawdust generated during slabbing, lubricated saw or chainsaw use) must be disposed of at a toxic waste dump.

    its a load of crap.
    In WA uncontaminated sawdust can be legally used without a permit in compost, compressed into burnable billets, in mulch, and in stables where animals can crap on it.

  14. #13
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    That was 20 years ago using the 2nd hand ATF, now its the cheap engine oil, which is probably recycled oil anyhow. Exposure to the nasties in the exhaust fumes are the biggest risk to health.
    regards inter

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    Quote Originally Posted by InterTD6 View Post
    That was 20 years ago using the 2nd hand ATF, now its the cheap engine oil, which is probably recycled oil anyhow. Exposure to the nasties in the exhaust fumes are the biggest risk to health.
    regards inter
    Yep I agree for the operator it probably is. Which is why I advocate using the minimum amount of 2 stroke lube and fresh petrol to give as clean a burn as possible

    It's probably the critters that live in the creeks passing through a clear felled valley that end up copping the nasties in any used oils.

  16. #15
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    Default Bar oil !! no brainer

    A topic talked to death over the years.

    I for one only use bar oil in the oiler and now switched to semi synthetic 2-stroke after a partial seize in my 80. Why would you use anything else. Here, bar oil is $3.50 a liter from the drum...cheap engine oil is $15 for 4 liters...doesn't add up to me.

    bars larger than 28-30" really tell you...with engine oil they get really hot and the saw tells you when they start to drag and smoke...even on my small 60cc saws the oiler can be adjusted back to use a lot less oil per tank of gas in any situation.

    NEVER never use, used engine oil...thats false economy big time...sure the chain can get by on small saws up 60cc/18" bars...but it takes its toll on the bar...and worse...how many saws will you find out the back of the local saw shop with stuffed oil pumps...and the economics aren't typically worth the cost of a new pump, ground out by waist oil particles...na...just aint worth it for the sake of "saving" how ever much over the life of the saw.

    Some auto trans fluid is carcinogenic...think of the fine spray flicked off the chain...I know the front of my overalls get quite oily by the end of the week from my shoulders to my boots, so I'd dare say I breath a bit of it in.

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