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Thread: ride-on mower keeps dying
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15th November 2015, 08:43 PM #46Woodworking mechanic
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If the diagram is correct, the plug should have either:
a) 4 wires - 2 white in separate terminals and 2 black in separate terminals ie. 4 terminals. This is the clutch/brake switch. Bridging the 2 white wires allows you to start the mower.
b) 6 wires - 2 white in separate terminals and 2 black in each of the other 2 terminals ie. 4 terminals. This is the attachment clutch switch. Bridging the 2 white wires allows you to start the mower.
In either case, disconnection of the plug has removed the black "ignition kill" wires from a potential short to ground at that switch which is why it starts and runs. When you jumped the two black wires, you brought the seat switch back into play
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15th November 2015, 09:13 PM #47
So the black is only the kill switch for the seat and nothing to do with the wire going to the solinoid at the carbi?
I think the carbi wire was red.
It was only four terminals on the plug but beat i can see is 2 blacks in one one black in another and one white in eah of the remaining two which have been looped with non colour coded red
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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15th November 2015, 09:14 PM #48
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15th November 2015, 09:19 PM #49Intermediate Member
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Had a similar problem with my old ride on. It was a short happening by the linkages hitting an electrical cable...one of the safety kill switches. It took me forever to find it. I disconnected all the things and replaced one at a time. If you are not good with this kind of stuff get someone to look at it for you...safety switches are there for a good reason. Anyway, found the one acting up and traced it to a rubbing linkage that wore through the wires insulation. Adjusted the linkage and replaced the wire and good as gold.
Hope this helps.
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15th November 2015, 11:40 PM #50GOLD MEMBER
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Can't help you with the carbi but as I said, the so called "safety" switches need to be clean and kept clean. I blow mine out every time I clean the air filter which is about every 3 to 4 mowings.
From the look of your connections, air may not be enough and could even blow crud where you don't want it. Even though you have got it going the cause of the problem is still there. Just a suggestion, Jaycar, Dick Smith or your local TV repair place can sell you a tin of contact cleaner, this would "wash out" the crud to ensure you have no further electrical issues.
This is my Husky, AWD with a mulching 112 cm, 3 blade deck, magic machine.Regards,
Bob
Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
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16th November 2015, 06:04 AM #51
I like your machine
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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16th November 2015, 07:28 AM #52
Dave, plug it back in and see if the carby still floods. You may have disconnected the fuel shut off valve.
I've seen a similar problem the same as Dave Stanton describes. Except it was the throttle linkage that was hitting on the kill wire.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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16th November 2015, 07:38 AM #53
Buy a few sheep, horses, alpaca, not only will they mow but they wool, meat and fun the kids can have with them. Just no goats they eat anything.
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16th November 2015, 07:43 AM #54
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16th November 2015, 03:07 PM #55
Go the goat
A lot more adventurous
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16th November 2015, 08:37 PM #56Woodworking mechanic
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If it has five wires, then the wiring diagram is wrong The black wires are all to do with the ignition kill circuit. According to the diagram Pete gave the link to, the red wire goes from the charging system regulator up to A1 on the ignition switch and the wire to the fuel cut solenoid is blue? There should be an orange wire, joined to the red and blue going to A2 on the ignition switch. Have a look at the diagram which shows the back of the ignition switch and compare wire colours to yours. The fuel cut solenoid, if it goes into the carby body, is used to cut off the fuel circuit in the carby when the ignition is switched off to prevent the engine "running on" when the engine is switched off.
if you wanted to bypass the safety switches, but I'm not recommending it, you could disconnect the black wire from the ignition unit and the "m" terminal on the ignition switch, then run connect a wire from the ignition unit straight back to the ignition switch "m" terminal. This would allow you to start and stop the mower normally but all the safety switches would be bypassed.
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16th November 2015, 10:12 PM #57
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