Thread: Advice appreciated

Local mill here mills lots of Marcocarpa and I’ve transported lots of it and that is a common feature of the cypress.

Probably 60 percent of the cypress I’ve carted ends up at primary schools and park grounds for outdoor uses in playgrounds etc with the rest to private properties for outdoor entertaining areas and community gardens for planter boxes and garden edging. Most of it gets left as is, so that it ends up with the silvery patina.

This company uses it quite extensively and has a gallery showing its various uses in their designs.

RB Landscapes

Can you both tell me the names of the saw mills (gippsland and east warburton?) - I'd love to buy some green slabs to directly from a mill

There is a mill in Hastings (Mornington Peninsula) that tend to do sleepers, but they can cut to order.

Originally Posted by qwertyu

Can you both tell me the names of the saw mills (gippsland and east warburton?) - I'd love to buy some green slabs to directly from a mill

Premier Timber Milling, located at 3045 Warburton Hwy, Millgrove. Contact is Colin 0407 662 866‬.
No website or fb links as they don’t have any.

At this time of year fast drying is going to be a problem. Particularly when timber is moved from one location to another. Your Canberra summer is harsh and the cracking will be inevitable. Best place for it would be indoors, out of the weather, until things cool down and there is more moisture in the air.
I never mill in summer.

The mill I used is Ruslin - see link in my thread.

Plastic sheet over your stack is likely to cause it to cook. Your best bet is to put a layer of dry or sacrificial wood on top, then some bearers around 100mm plus high, then some roofing iron on top weighted down. You want the dry or low value wood + airspace to keep heat away from your good boards. Then use hessian sheeting (potato bags) on the upwind side of the stack and wet the bags down thoroughly of a morning... it'll keep a cool damp breeze flowing across the wood which will slow moisture loss.

On the bright side if you've got it down to 20% without anything but end splits you'll do okay. (Hopefully.) What happens is the checks and splits form at high moisture levels as microchecks and then as the moisture content drops away they become visible to the eye, which many mistakenly think is a drying fault occuring at lower moisture levels. Below 20% you can dry them hard and fast with no issues provided they had no issues develop getting to that 20%.