Thread: Advice re fingerjointed laminated pine

Has anyone used this stuff before?
Any advice?

have some finger jointed hoop pine panels,2400x1200x21mm. not sure how you could get them from Qld. I sell pine in Bris,Qld..

Porta mouldings in Fairfield (Melb) used to make pine panels and they were available in the big green shed. Not sure if they still do and whether they are large enough for your purpose.
Hope that helps.

Thanks,
I have found the Porta website from Melb. Looks like they might have what I'm after.
Cheers.

G'day, watch that pine panel stuff wrapped in plastic. It does warp as soon as it is opened. I bought a some from that big green shed and could not use it, but have to add I was refunded all the dollars even after I had cut it. Now that's customer service in NW Victoria. Cheers

Thanks Sawtooth,
I was under the impression it was supposed to warp less due to using multiple narrow widths glued together.
Did you still end up using the same type of panels or did you go for something else?

You're welcome, I had the same thought that it should be more stable, however it is made in Brazil which is a bit damper then here. As for the project; went back to plan A and that was to build a set of book shelves that are knock downable [now that's a new word] using wedges. It worked and does not need backing. I used old 30 mm thick Origan. It was for my daughter's 21st and she's happy with it. My son made up a mallet to knock the wedges in and out. Back to the timber, I do know another shed lover with the same problem. Advice to all "don't buy timber wrapped in plastic". But again; credit to Bunnings for refunding; I did not expect it.

Hi Madddougs,

I have used the laminated pine panels made by Porta Mouldings quite a lot...yes plastic wrapped and bought from Bunnings... and absolutely no problems. So I guess Sawtooth may have been unlucky...but at least Bunnings did the right thing by him.

Just remember, you must finish both sides of the panel exactly the same. That is if you put polyurethane on the top, then put it underneath as well. I have also had an offcut laying in my carport for over a year and it still did not buckle.

I have known people who have glued up their own panels and had them buckle and split.... due to not finishing the underside and not allowing for movement across the panel to the frame underneath and pine is very forgiving!.

Good luck with it all,

Chipman

Thanks for the advice guys. Food for thought.
Just one more thing you said, "not allowing for movement across the panel to the frame underneath"
How is this done. I thought the more attached the less buckling. (sorry haven't built a lot of furniture.. more of a steel man as you can just weld up your mistakes)
Cheers

Originally Posted by Maddougs

Thanks for the advice guys. Food for thought.
Just one more thing you said, "not allowing for movement across the panel to the frame underneath"
How is this done. I thought the more attached the less buckling. (sorry haven't built a lot of furniture.. more of a steel man as you can just weld up your mistakes)
Cheers

Timber expands and contracts more across the grain than along the grain so where the panel sits on the frame across the ends, the grain of the top is at right angles to the fram and if this is not allowed for, the top can buckle, split or even tear the frame apart, especially with hardwoods.

To allow for this, wooden buttons or blocks are screwed into the top and fitted into a groove on the frame to allow it to move. Alternatively you can buy figure 8 clips to do the same thing.

I suggest you visit a furniture shop and have a look under the table to see how they do it.


I have attempted to post a link for you...

www.charm.net/~jriley/ttop.html

Regards,

Chipman