Thread: Australian hardwoods for martial arts contact training weapons

Hello Stu and welcome to the Forums.

I expect there are a a whole range of Australian timbers that are suitable to some extent, but many of them may be a little difficult to obtain. However, in the first instance, I suggest you look very closely at Spotted Gum (Corymbia Maculata) as this has been the preferred, commercial Australian timber for tool handles: This is because of it's ability to absorb shocks and indeed many of it's properties exceed that of Hickory. Hickory's reputation, I believe, comes from that fact that only very select specimens were used for handles (such as for axes etc).

Initially I don't think you can go far wrong if you chose straight grained defect free timber. If you want to find out more properties of Australian timbers, get a copy of Keith Bootle's book "Wood in Australia" from the local library as it is the bible for timber properties.

I should add that Ironbark, while being very heavy and strong, can be a little brittle. Also it produces splinters like almost no other timber.

Regards
Paul

Hi Paul, thanks for that.
I have been working my way through a few timbers, mainly what falls on my lap, which a decent piece of Spotted Gum hasn't yet.

Because for a couple of the wooden swords have quite a curve on them, I drive the timber yard mad (not really, Matthews timbers has been great) pulling planks out, looking for that elusive one that has enough curve in the grain that I can cut pieces out that are one integral piece.

The pics below sho the curves I am looking for, so it is a curve in the grain I am looking for.
As you can see, these don't have the grain following the curve of the sword, though these are test versions, which will still break 25mm Tassy Oak dowels, which I am using as my test at the moment.

Interesting what you say about the Ironbark, I haven't been able to break one of the Bokken yet, but I am stepping up the testing slowly to find it's limits in breaking things.
Being brittle, does that mean that it will be great until it breaks suddenly (not good during training)?
With the splintering, what type of impact damage would produce them?

All the best,

Stu

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Stu

I understand your quest for the curve in the grain. With Ironbark there are several different varieties so it is possible that some are more brittle than others with a tendency to snap. However this may be at elevated levels compared to many other timbers. I have just thought that you should look at Grey Gum, which I find is tougher than Ironbark and also White/Grey Box.

The splinter aspect of Ironbark is more in the rough sawn state. For the moment I would suggest that Spotted Gum (Lemon Scented Gum is similar and sometimes sold as Spotted Gum in QLD) is still your most likely candidate because of it's impact resistance. I noticed that you had seen Greg Thatcher's thread on saw handles and I did make a comment there before I saw your latest post on this thread. I don't know how the grain aspect would go on a copy lathe. Maybe just careful positioning to take advantage of the natural grain would be sufficient.

Perhaps you could also consider steam bending of straight grained material. Spotted Gum is particularly suited to steam bending. However I don't have any information as to whether that would affect the strength compared to unbent material.

Regards
Paul

Ive trained in Aikido (Iwama) since 20 and broken dozens of bokken.

This is a good problem, but considering how cheap they are....

The oak ones are great. They don't shatter *often* and I've still a couple that are 25 years old. Well worn and could do with a sanding

Some of the properties I think would be useful are extra weight (they are too light compared to a katana). Personally I think training with a heavy one would be preferable. I use the "thick" style.

Other factors would be the reverb. Its nice to have the timber adsorb some/most of the impact.

I also agree with BushMiller, steam bending is the way to go.

It is good you are investigating Aussie timbers for this. It will prove popular.

Hi woodPixel,
Thanks for the reply.

I hear you on the Bokken, being disposable. I have worked in Manufacturing for 30 years, and am thinking carefully through where to invest my time and energy if I am going to compete with low cost labour mass manufacturing.
I've seen sadly at first hand the dismantling of our manufacturing base, both in machinery and skills.

The conclusion I've come to so far is aim to be the best in a quality and artistic ability and cater for those that want something special (and have money haha).
A couple of makers that come to mind are Kingfisher Woodworks in the States, and the traditional (?) workshops in Japan, via Seidoshop martial arts supply.

I'm with you on the weight thing too, the Redgum and Ironbark Bokken have a great feel, compared to one of the Jap Oak ones I am using as a template.
They break things without blinking too.

On reverb, I am still figuring this out, but I have used both Blackwood and Teak and found that there is almost no transmission of shock to the hands....almost feels strange.

All the best,

Stu

Have you considered laminating bent wood strips? Say start off with strips 3mm thick and bend them to your form.... Then glue laminate and shape.... Done well - it would be easy to make and would not have potential problems with crossgrain runout.

You could also pick "edge" woods that are more direct impact resistant and "core" or "spine" woods that are flexible and provide some measure of damping...

This would also allow you to customize patterns and colors for people.

Hi Paul and truckjohn,
I have no experience or gear for steam bending, so maybe that's in the future.
As for laminating, that is interesting, as the traditional Japanese steel swords use this concept, with a softer steel core and a harder edge, which they can do by differential tempering.
Again, I come up with the problem of cost and competition if I am going to make a go of competing in the marketplace.

There are a few people doing it, but as far as I can tell it's hobby level, so I'm back to choosing timber with the correct characteristics and carving them.
I'm good with this, being a bit old school, nothing like a beautiful piece of timber that performs as expected.

All the best,

Stu

I have used spotted gum in the past to make Bo which is a straight stick some times with tapered ends. our club used them for 5 years until the club disbanded, they suffered many dents etc but I only remember one breakage (we were trying to see how tuff it was)

Hi China,

Well, spotted gum seems to be the general consensus, I'd better run with that.

Cheers