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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustinH View Post
    In addition to this, reading the SDS for the treatment chemicals, it seems, as BobL mentioned, a very large quantity of the pure chemical would need to come into skin contact or be ingested for it to be toxic. It would be difficult to touch or consume that much of the chemical once applied to the wood and I'll be planing all surfaces so the most saturated areas will be removed anyway.
    As long as you are aware that Toxicities quoted in MSDS are based on an average response across the population but not everyone has the same reaction which is where allergic reactions come in.

    If you are going to plane (I assume you mean them I recommend using good dust extraction - you haven't mentioned what you have in this regard.

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  3. #17
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    You won’t get rid of all the blue tinge in places particularly if there are little splits or knots as it will have seeped through.
    It is fine to do for a workbench etc but wouldn’t do it for furniture grade with a natural finish as you will likely get some blue hues through the job

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    You won’t get rid of all the blue tinge in places particularly if there are little splits or knots as it will have seeped through.
    It is fine to do for a workbench etc but wouldn’t do it for furniture grade with a natural finish as you will likely get some blue hues through the job
    You might be able to bleach those bits out with Oxalic acid, but this could lead to a patches of slightly different coloured wood so you would have to do the whole area of any visible pieces.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    You might be able to bleach those bits out with Oxalic acid, but this could lead to a patches of slightly different coloured wood so you would have to do the whole area of any visible pieces.
    By the time you go through all these extra processes and a percentage of your timber is shavings/dust it is not looking such an attractive option to me,

  6. #20
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    I think the H2 will be fine for your work bench. Especially if you dress it so the blue is gone from anywhere work pieces might be clamped to. You could even cover it with plywood.

    If you are brand new to woodwork and have limited tools then you might want to start out with DAR untreated timber for furniture. You'll find why after you have hand planed all those boards for your work bench without a vise.

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  7. #21
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    Thanks everyone. After all this, someone selling 2500lm of untreated 90mmx45mmx6m for $2.50/lm appeared on Facebook marketplace. I ended up getting double what I needed for the workbench and still saved money. It was used for racking in a clean, dry warehouse and stored inside once disassembled, so I assume that means it should be nice and dry. Just need to finish off a few other jobs around the house and it's time to build a workbench!
    At least I know quite a bit about wood treatments, safety precautions and applications now

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