Thread: Cypress types

Here's examples

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Likely the same species (White Cypress "pine") with different levels of resin in some areas eg around knots. There are a few species of native Australian cypress but mostly ONE is sawn and used as a commercial durable species, Callitris columellaris. The more resinous wood is the more durable.

Don't confuse it with the other true pines (eg Pinus radiata) which are not durable and not as brown or resinous as this cypress.

There is the other cypress that is also milled for its wood Cupressus macrocarpa its wood is more uniform in colour but not sold by Bunnings to my knowledge.

Originally Posted by Euge

Likely the same species (White Cypress "pine") with different levels of resin in some areas eg around knots. There are a few species of native Australian cypress but mostly ONE is sawn and used as a commercial durable species, Callitris columellaris. The more resinous wood is the more durable.

Don't confuse it with the other true pines (eg Pinus radiata) which are not durable and not as brown or resinous as this cypress.

There is the other cypress that is also milled for its wood Cupressus macrocarpa its wood is more uniform in colour but not sold by Bunnings to my knowledge.

Thanks! Will the resin/brown areas stay that colour when dried? I quite like the look would like to make a table with it

Does the resin effect glue or finishes?

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Yes, agreed with Euge (who knows tons more about it than I do). I have some boards milled in the late 1950s that have chocolates scattered through them - when I have recently asked current White Cypress millers if they ever see them, they don't even know what I'm talking about. They are very handsome indeed.

Be aware that WC is very good to machine/hand plane etc but hates being nailed - perhaps only when green.

I think it would make a great table. If it's resinous then wipe it down with Acetone immediately prior to gluing, but the presence of resin might indicate that it is still too green. at 20mm thick it should only take about 6 months or so to air dry.

I suggest you stack it level and supported, sticker it, and maybe strap it up as a stickered bundle to dry otherwise it may be quite twisted by the time you use it. Although Cypress has a low expansion coefficient it will move a lot simply because it's likely to be very wet.

Australian cypress is completely different to cypress macrocarpa, which is far more white and uniform and has less knots / branches. Macrocarpa is also not as durable as Australian Cypress.

Here is a Macrocarpa, or Monterrey Cypress beam sitting on top of two native Australian cypress sawhorses;

IMG_20180710_185651_654.jpg

Both are very nice to work with edge tools but are prone to splitting quite easily.

Cheers, Dom

Originally Posted by qwertyu

Thanks! Will the resin/brown areas stay that colour when dried? I quite like the look would like to make a table with it

Does the resin effect glue or finishes?

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I suspect the resinous darker wood, will make it harder to glue eg with water based glues, and may even effect curing glues, As Fence Furniture says, wipe down joints with a solvent just before gluing or test glue on some offcuts. Same with finishes, some may dry more slowly or tend to lift. (I am not knowledgeable about finishes or glues ... just what I can recall by others. May be worth testing on an offcut. ) Pre-drill holes for screws and nails as FF suggests. Knots remain firm too and it seasons well. But its BRITTLE, so don't drop a board as it may break.

Good luck. Its a wonderful wood, beautiful and fragrant but some react to its wood oils which may cause dermatitis and breathing problems if prone to them so use a mask & avoid skin contact with dust.

It would make a beautiful table. ... should be worth any trouble