Thread: Help needed - Brisbane

Originally Posted by ian

of course you are responsible for your own safety, but I wouldn't attempt the requested 45 degree diagonal cut a 30 mm square section without using a jig. Far safer to take a 45 degree slice off a wider board.

What do you mean by '45 degree slice off a wider board'?

Originally Posted by 35o125

What do you mean by '45 degree slice off a wider board'?

Think of it this way, you have a board that is 30mm thick and the width is 450mm you run the board through the table saw where the blade is set at 45 degrees there is your first piece. Rotate the blade on the table saw back to 90 degrees and there is your second piece. You keep going until you end up with the number of pieces you require.

Originally Posted by Christos

Think of it this way, you have a board that is 30mm thick and the width is 450mm you run the board through the table saw where the blade is set at 45 degrees there is your first piece. Rotate the blade on the table saw back to 90 degrees and there is your second piece. You keep going until you end up with the number of pieces you require.

I am not trying to cut the board.
I need this to be cut 45 degrees throughout https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-30...imber_p0021342
to get something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/porta-19...lding_p0080981

The problem that I see is that the kerf of the blade will take too much through the centre of the 30x 30 square pieces and you wouldn't get a triangle with 30mm sides.

What Christos said......

See attached png file to see the difference in the methods

30x30 Triangles.PNG

Using the wide board method would also be safer and more accurate....Trying to split the 30x30 with a band saw is prone to be problematic.

G'day skot,

Can you explain to me what would be problematic about splitting (cutting) a piece of board on a bandsaw? If you tilt the table to 45 degrees and use a fence, I am at a loss to understand what problems the exercise is prone to.

Geoff

Not sure about all bandsaws but when I tilt mine...the table slopes down from the blade and I have trouble holding the piece against the fence. This can be alleviated by placing the fence down slope from the blade.

I am concerned about placing the fence down slope as this now wedges the piece against the table on one face and against the fence on the adjacent face. This can lead the the pieces being jammed together after passing the blade and causing the blade to bind.

I have found that trying to get a perfectly neat straight line on a bandsaw can be a problem. The blades have a tendency to wander. You can get a reasonably straight cut but this usually involves an expensive bandsaw and a pricey resaw blade.

Originally Posted by skot

The problem that I see is that the kerf of the blade will take too much through the centre of the 30x 30 square pieces and you wouldn't get a triangle with 30mm sides.

What Christos said......

See attached png file to see the difference in the methods

30x30 Triangles.PNG

Using the wide board method would also be safer and more accurate....Trying to split the 30x30 with a band saw is prone to be problematic.

Thanks for the explanation. I am aware that the thickness of a blade will take some from the sides, but that wouldn't be a problem in this case
I am pretty sure this guy is not doing it the safest way, but this is the kind of cut I am looking for.

https://youtu.be/41liBn-QNW4?t=3m45s

Google 'timber moulding Brisbane'. Ring up a couple in your area. I'm sure you'll find one that will make a moulding exactly as you want it and cheaper than Bunnings provided you are willing to cut to length yourself.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I can't believe this is so hard to find

To rip these 30x30 into triangles is an incredibly basic operation that any competent cabinet maker or wood machinist can do with a table saw or panel saw. It will just be a minimum charge job completed in about 10 minutes and maybe another 10 minutes for the inevitable chit chat. I've done the job many times before using much larger stock than what is being discussed here.

I do it as follows.
- Attach a false fence to the fence which has a clearance cutout to allow the blade to extend past the face of the fence.
- Tilt the blade towards the fence to 45°
- set the fence to the desired width.
- shove the timber through until you have almost cut it, then reach to the back and pull the timber through the rest of the way.

Don't worry about the timber being wedged between the fence and under the blade...just overcome the obvious..duh

If your prepared to travel to Bunya, just past Ferny Grove, I'll cut your Pine lengths for you. It should take me about 5 minutes and shouldn't be problematic.
Geoff

PS: I am about 10 kms away from Clayfield and can do the job for you, gratus (?), at any time. One of the joys of being retired and the Boss inviting the family to celebrate Christmas at our place, again!

I'm at Mount Crosby, so a decent drive from you. If your preparedto drive about 45 minutes each way go to bunnings buy a non structural stud that's fairly straight and no bad knots. It'll cost you about $2.

Bring it to my place at a pre arranged time and tell me what sort of triangles you want and how long and I'll rip it up for you on my table saw. This assumes you can wait till january as I'm away atm...

You don't need dressed I can rip it smooth as, or run it through a planer and thicknesser initially, depending on how pretty you want it.

Those studs are about 32 by 75 by 2.4 so plenty of wood to get your bits, if your worried lash out and buy 2.

This just isn't hard. It's a trivial job. How does it turn into such a long discussion and potential argument ??

Originally Posted by damian

This just isn't hard. It's a trivial job. How does it turn into such a long discussion and potential argument ??

Welcome to the Internet.

Originally Posted by TinyTool

If your prepared to travel to Bunya, just past Ferny Grove, I'll cut your Pine lengths for you. It should take me about 5 minutes and shouldn't be problematic.
Geoff

PS: I am about 10 kms away from Clayfield and can do the job for you, gratus (?), at any time. One of the joys of being retired and the Boss inviting the family to celebrate Christmas at our place, again!

Originally Posted by damian

I'm at Mount Crosby, so a decent drive from you. If your preparedto drive about 45 minutes each way go to bunnings buy a non structural stud that's fairly straight and no bad knots. It'll cost you about $2.

Bring it to my place at a pre arranged time and tell me what sort of triangles you want and how long and I'll rip it up for you on my table saw. This assumes you can wait till january as I'm away atm...

You don't need dressed I can rip it smooth as, or run it through a planer and thicknesser initially, depending on how pretty you want it.

Those studs are about 32 by 75 by 2.4 so plenty of wood to get your bits, if your worried lash out and buy 2.

This just isn't hard. It's a trivial job. How does it turn into such a long discussion and potential argument ??

Thank you so much guys!!
Have a great Christmas.

I will send a pm to one of you after Christmas to arrange the time that is most suitable for you to cut my wood.

Much appreciated!