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  1. #1
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    Apr 2012
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    Default Norfolk Island Hibiscus

    Hi,

    I have a 12m Norfolk Island Hibiscus in my yard that will need to come down soon.
    The local council is not a fan of them either due to the itchy pods it drops.
    It is about 450mm diameter at the base and pretty parallel for the first 4 or 5m till the first branches.
    Will this yield much usable wood?
    How should you cut it?
    I can't find out much about it other than it is a very light coloured wood.
    Might be useful to keep some for some trim or inlay.

    Thanks.

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  3. #2
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    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    I think I just wet myself . White gold I'm so keen to get more of this stuff I grew some from seed and planted them in the backyard!!! It's one of the whitest timbers I've seen if it is dried properly (eg: sawn, stickered and allowed to breathe well) and is an absolute pleasure to work with machines or hand tools. It sands easily and if you wax it instead of an oil or varnish type finish, it comes up looking like Ivory. If you weren't so damn far away I'd happily come and take it off your hands but . .
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    belgrave
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    Default

    I had a few precious pieces and made a couple of while finials with this wood. Its great.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  5. #4
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    Apr 2005
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    Nerang Queensland
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    Default

    If you want the precious white wood, cut it as small as practical and coat with an anti-fungal from your local nursery will do, then after the spray drying, spay with Boron dissolved in water. This is about the only time I would use the good Boron and not Borax as it will retain the white better and avoid any yellowing. Then seal ends and stack well in well ventilated but dry area.

    If you want some spalted sections, just block it noting growing direction, then stack it on some mouldy concrete or a damp area with the bottom of the blocks on the bottom. Also place something over the top end so it is protected from moisture entry. As it dries the moisture and mouldy spores will then be drawn into the timber. If you can find any of that orange fungus around, grind it up into a paste and place on the bottom of the blocks.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks for the info.
    Any view on the best way to cut it? Slab it, quarter sawn?
    Is there much difference between the sapwood and heart?

    Cheers.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Can't say I am familiar with milling this timber but I would have thought quarter sawn is more stable. Perhaps TTIT can shed some light
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  8. #7
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    Dec 2005
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    Emerald, QLD
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    Can't say I am familiar with milling this timber but I would have thought quarter sawn is more stable. Perhaps TTIT can shed some light
    With a log that size I would definitely try quarter-sawing it. The pieces I have were just sliced through and the outer slices (backsawn) did cup quite a bit which quarter sawing will avoid.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  9. #8
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    Thanks for the input.
    I should be able to mill it on the band saw with some willing assistants.
    I'm keen to see how it turns out.

  10. #9
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    Don't forget, even left over scraps can make good pen blanks or finials
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

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