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Thread: Replacing Step Treads
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3rd August 2010, 05:17 PM #1Member
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Replacing Step Treads
We are going to replace our timber treads on the steel stringers, is there a shortcut to drilling holes in correct place, eg template? Want to predrill before painting.
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4th August 2010, 10:15 PM #2
it them on and mark underneath.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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4th August 2010, 10:24 PM #3Banned
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They might all vary a bit , also , taking a swag of them off at a time might affect the distance between the stringers.
So start with the bottom tread , take the old one off , mark , drill , fit , and bolt the replacement , and on the to the next one .
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4th August 2010, 11:49 PM #4Member
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Thanks, the painter wants to treat and paint the steel stringers. So if we remove them all for painting, replace the bottom and top one, and go from there???
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5th August 2010, 01:14 AM #5Senior Member
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If there is any chance of the stringers moving when the treads are
removed you could use strips of 1/4 ply to stabilize them while the
treads are off and they wouldn't be that much in the way of the painting.
You could dab some paint on the spots they left as you install the new
treads.
Do some measuring before removing the old treads to determine if
the spacings are the same on all the treads.
You might be able to remove every other one and do the painting and
then install the new treads and remove the remaining treads and paint
those places.
Lots of options??
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5th August 2010, 08:28 AM #6Member
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Thanks so much.
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5th August 2010, 08:44 AM #7
just number the old ones and use them as a template to drill the new ones (check the overall lie of the old ones first to make sure the old alignment is correct, ie nothing that needs to be corrected.)
or do top and bottom treads and clamp a straight edge between them, use that to align the rest and drill each one off the holes- number them before removing to paint(a punch to mark the end grain is best)
Most important thing is to look at the end grain of each tread before installation. You want sit it so the rings make a smiley face and the tread will be happy. If the rings make an unhappy face, the tread will be unhappy. Think I'm joking? The tread will cup slightly due to tangential contraction, if you have a smiley face the cup will be upside down and shed water better. If you have an unhappy face the cup will be right way up, retain water and eventually hasten rot, mould and slippery stuff.
Cheers
Michael
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5th August 2010, 08:54 AM #8Member
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When we picked up the treads, an elderly guy approached us and explained how to choose which way is up, smiley face up. We won't be able to use most of the old ones as a template, because they are rotten around the holes, which is a pain. The head are countersunk.
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5th August 2010, 09:08 AM #9Banned
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5th August 2010, 09:33 AM #10
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5th August 2010, 09:35 AM #11Member
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Makes it easy to remember.
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5th August 2010, 09:44 AM #12
Also... Rather than use bolts, fit the treads with coach screws, then there are fewer spots for rot to start too.
Cheers
Michael
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5th August 2010, 09:59 AM #13Banned
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