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9th February 2009, 07:31 PM #1New Member
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What Timber to use for Outdoor Louvres
I want to build some timber louvres for an outdoor screen. The screens will be above a brick wall with sandstone look alike (coloured concrete) caps.
I am concerned about the timber I use leeching out and into the concrete and brick work.
WA Karri has been suggested however a sample I got seems to leech a little when wet. I have also considered using modwood.
I would appreciate any suggestions on a timber I can use that would be suitable for the Canberra climate.
Many thanks in advance for assistance.
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10th February 2009, 08:34 AM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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out door louvres
Both western red cedar and paulownia are used extensively for window and door frames. They are easy to work with and can be purchased as shaped blades if necessary. I only have paulownia so if you need some more information visit www.paulownia-timber-sales.com.au
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10th February 2009, 03:15 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Western Red Cedar leaches a dark stain. Cypress is clean well so is radiata but it rots.
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10th February 2009, 06:05 PM #4
Do some tests with paulownia. I am a recent convert. It's amazing stuff.
Cheers
steve
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10th February 2009, 08:46 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Red Mahogany - E' resinifera, No stain & durability 1 out of the ground
I can supply, PM if interested
Regards inter
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11th February 2009, 12:18 PM #6
Dingo, whatever timber you use, most will give off tannin stains, that's just part of being Euc's. One way to try and minimise if not stop it all together is to stick it on the lawn and 'rain' on it with a soaker hose/sprinkler for a couple of hours. Yeah I know water restrictions are a bit tough for this, but even creek water would do - although at the moment down there, even creek water would probably be used for much better things.
I know a lot of the merbau/balau furniture used to come with recommendations to 'rain' on it before use to help try and draw out the tanninI love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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11th February 2009, 12:25 PM #7
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11th February 2009, 12:46 PM #8
If you choose to do this, make sure you use an oil based primer and give it two coats of primer. Any other primer will not stop it leaching and I do two coats as I hate painting, so I don't want to go back to something after I find the primer was a bit thin, the timber bled and now I have to do primer and 3-4 coats of top coat to cover up the new primer
I love my Lucas!! ...just ask me!
Allan.
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11th February 2009, 03:25 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Tannin stains
I raised the use of Paulownia as an option. The Paulownia moulding I buy from a wholesaler has been specially treated in a large tank with a 'secret' wash, as advised by the Chinise, to remove the tannin. It is then kiln dried to 11% to stabilise it.
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11th February 2009, 05:17 PM #10
Is paulownia a durable timber?
CHeers
Michael
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11th February 2009, 07:03 PM #11Intermediate Member
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I'd go for teak or jarrah.
Oil the teak with tung oil, 2 pack poly marine varnish for the jarrah.
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12th February 2009, 04:02 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Paulownia
I have 3 pages of information about Paulownia and its properties that I down loaded from a web site. Unfortunately I lack the skills to transpose the relevant portions to this reply. Basically if it is half as good as this articles states then it is well and truly a durable timber.
Having said this it has its limitations as it is not a structural timber and too soft, in its own right, to be used as bench tops etc.
It is recognised by the timber windows & door manfacturers as a viable alternative to western red cedar.
John
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