Thread: Whats the difference? ?

Originally Posted by Melbournechris

Thank you so much for that.....There are a few places in my area to try get quotes....

Hey, while I have you. To also secure the treated to the colourbond fence, i should use hex screws?? Will I have to pre drill timber??

Regards,

Chris

Yes and no, and use screws with a timber screw thread. They should drill through the tin too.

Cheers
Michael

you are not using the fence to hold up the wall are you?

you need roofing scresws to attach the timber to tin securely. the ones meant for timber battons not steel ones

Originally Posted by weisyboy

you are not using the fence to hold up the wall are you?

you need roofing scresws to attach the timber to tin securely. the ones meant for timber battons not steel ones

No, not holding it up....

So, one side of the "planter box" is the colourbod fencing and the other is the retaining wall, I am about to build. I just want to put treated pine plinth X2 up the fence to build up the height of the box.

Cheers,

Chris

I think you're just copying my answers weisy and running then through a spell mischecker

Cheers
Michael

youa re copying me before iv finished writing it.

i would not be using the coulorbond fence as a planter box side. fertaliser and watter will make short work of the tin. i sugest u build a wall along the bakc aswell.

Mic-d you keep saying H3 treated pine.....you meant to say H4 right?

H4 is the correct level of treatment for inground use.

and yes 50mm minimum thickness but you will need to support the wall at 800 centres with uprights unless you don't mind a wavy wall. If you try to stretch it to 1.2m centres you will find the boards will warp between the posts.

Most of the info you need is on this info sheet from Timber Qld.

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Mic-d you keep saying H3 treated pine.....you meant to say H4 right?

H4 is the correct level of treatment for inground use.

and yes 50mm minimum thickness but you will need to support the wall at 800 centres with uprights unless you don't mind a wavy wall. If you try to stretch it to 1.2m centres you will find the boards will warp between the posts.

I did say H3 didn't I? I can't even say I meant H4, but I did mean the appropriate level for in-ground use. Looks like the neurone that stored the correct information has died, along with many others. Don't believe a word I say anymore!

Cheers
Michael

Depending where you are, try considering secondhand rail sleepers. Tough hardwood been in the ground awhile already, just my personal preference I hate treated timber. Too many nasty chemicals!

I thought H4 was minimum for ground contact (NSW). In Qld, H5 is preferred/minimum?