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  1. #1
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    Default Saw alignment MK3

    Quote Originally Posted by Sturdee View Post

    The way I used for setting the saw in relation to the fence on the MK3 was as follows.

    1. Set the fence at 100mm on your scale markings.

    2. Accurately measure the distance of the blade to the fence at the front and back of the saw using the same saw tooth. Mark it with a texta.

    3. Do this again for a number of different saw teeth to make sure your blade is okay.

    4. If the blade is okay, subtract 100mm from your measurements else first get a good blade.

    5. Obtain a car feeler adjustment gauge (used to adjust spark plug gaps etc.)

    6. Take of your table top, turn the saw chassis around and then use the feeler gauge to move the locating brackets on one side of the saw to the correct positions using your feeler gauge and tighten. Then move the saw and adjust the other locating brackets and tighten. Then secure the saw with the clamps.

    7. Reassemble unit and make test cuts.

    8. If necessary repeat above. This should only be necessary if you forgot that the front measurement in the TS mode is at the back of the saw for adjustment and vice versa.


    My WC has always been 100 % accurate using the above method. Never try to measure with the fence directly against the blade as the fence will distort your saw blade. Hence the extra gap for measuring if needed you can use a larger gap if you haven't got small rulers.


    Peter.
    The above was posted in another thread on under table dust but as I've had a few queries on my method it might be more appropriate in it's own thread.

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  3. #2
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    Default Use of feeler gauge.

    I've had a request for a bit more information on how I use a feeler gauge to adjust the saw.

    A feeler gauge has many very thin blades ranging from 0.001mm to 1mm. By selecting a number of these blades and folding them together any thickness can be obtained. Most automotive shops would have them and is on special this week at Supercheap.

    The saw in the WC is held down by 4 clamps, one on each corner of the saw. These clamps are in 2 parts, the top being the saw clampdown and the bottom being the stop to keep the saw in place.

    With the saw carriage and saw being the right way up I remove the top parts of the clamps. I then loosen the bottom part of one clamp and insert the feeler gauge (set to the size I need to move the saw) between the stop and the side of the saw and retighten. This will create a gap between the stop and the saw, being the amount the saw will need to be moved.

    I then repeat the above with the other stop.

    With the two stops set I move the saw and move the remaining stops to the side of the saw and clamp the saw securely with the top clamps.

    Using the feeler gauge you should be able to accurately set the saw as you can repeat it to get 0.001 accuracy.


    Peter.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Now it makes sense, however any accuracy is still dependent on having the skill and eyesight enough to set the fence accurately - if someone can make that job easier I'd be a happy little vegemite.

    Denn

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dennford View Post
    Now it makes sense, however any accuracy is still dependent on having the skill and eyesight enough to set the fence accurately - if someone can make that job easier I'd be a happy little vegemite.

    Denn

    Denn,


    That's the easy part.

    I got a pair of cheap magnifying (3.5 magnification) reading glasses from a $2 shop and used the lenses to make the this addition to the fence.

    As the lenses are plastic they are easily shaped to fit on a belt sander and the lenses and little wooden height blocks are glued onto the fence with clear silicone. Make the blocks higher than the low side of the fence but still below the highside so that magnification is increased and you can blow/suck any dust out.

    With this addition the ruler marks are easy to see and no real skill is needed any more.

    Peter.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Now you have me thinking about putting a fine wire hairline underneath rather than the crappy old pointer, keep this up and I wont need to upgrade to a thousand dollar table saw!

    Thanks
    Denn

  7. #6
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    Default

    Good one as usual Peter..

    Al

  8. #7
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    Jul 2008
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    bunbury western australia
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    Default Optical Alignment Inserts

    Sturdee, what a bonza idea.
    Stewie

  9. #8
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    Jul 2008
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    bunbury western australia
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    Default Alignment

    Despite my earlier thread about the Mk3 I must admit dead accurate saw alignment was a bugbear. This method with the feeler gauges et al should do the trick nicely.
    Thanks
    Stewie

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