Thread: Cross cutting problem

As Gumby would say build a crosscut sled.


Peter.

Wassy,

Iam guessing that this is crosscutting in the tablesaw mode. If it is, a scrap of timber behind the piece you are crosscutting will support the edge fibers and greatly reducing the tearout.

If you are getting the tearout in the crosscut mode, it will likely be at the back side of the cut. Loosen the MDF faces on the crosscut fence and bring them in together again. This way the kerf that the saw cuts in them will be again directly aligned with the blade and they will give maximum support.

Over time this gap grows because the fairies in the night, or the gremlins make it so.

Most tearout will occur on the exit of the blade. Where possible if you cut from the face side to the back side whatever tearout there is will be less relevant.

For the more adventurous, there is a technique called a climb cut that is good for reducing tearout. I am not going to explain that here, as it is a technique that you are better off learning from someone who can show it to you and watch you do it a few times.

Visit a Triton club for this one.

Hope this helps.

Steve

Originally Posted by Sturdee

As Gumby would say build a crosscut sled.


Peter.

And use a piece of scrap to support the tail end of your cut, do the same when using a router table across the grain.

Thanks for the prompt replies. As I have the sliding extension table I don't think I will build a cross-cut sled. I will work out a simple way I can use a peice of scrap behind the timber when I can't hide the cut.

To add to this, is it normal to get some tear out on cros-cut with a decent saw blade with radiata?

Cheers,
Mat

Originally Posted by Wassy

To add to this, is it normal to get some tear out on cros-cut with a decent saw blade with radiata?

Cheers,
Mat

YES!

Originally Posted by DPB

YES!

...but you can also buy specialist cross-cut blades that will give you far less problems with chipping out, and will leave a very smooth endgrain surface.

Originally Posted by Wassy

As I have the sliding extension table I don't think I will build a cross-cut sled.

The extn table is OK for larger pieces. Not small stuff. I had both. The sled was better. It supports the work (minimal tear-out) and is easier to set accurately since the kerf is in the backing fence and you just line the work up to that.

Sleds rule

Originally Posted by Wassy

To add to this, is it normal to get some tear out on cros-cut with a decent saw blade with radiata?

Cheers,
Mat

They don't call it Crapiata for nothing.

Thankyou to all for the advice so far.

Cheers,
Mat

Maybe consider how far the blade is protruding through the work, generally get a better cut by having the saw blade reasonably low, this is also considered to increase the risk of kickback though so ensure you use the splitter & guard, etc.


Cheers...........Sean, kickbacks please

Blade lowering or height is a good point Scooter.

If the blade is set low, it will reduce tearout on the underside of timber being crosscut in the table saw mode. It will however increase the tearout on the back side.

Both are due to the angle of movement of the teeth as they exit the timber. The less support the fibers have, the more likely they are to tear out.

Unless you have a zero clearance infill strip (A very very thin gap for the saw blade to come through on the table top) You would need to slide the timber being cut on something such as ply, MDF or other similar support to reduce tearout on the underside.

By lowering the blade, tearout is most likely to move to the rear of the timber, which is easiest to support.

A very good alternative to a zero clearance infill strip would be....(Here it comes Gumby)...a crosscut sled.

The sled provides zero clearance both at the underside and back or front, depending on how you use it.

The plans and article that Bob Jager (Spelling?) did are well worth a read. He has some innovative suggestions for a fairly simple to make and effective jig.

A lower blade is more likely to cause a kickback. This is because any pinching of the blade for any cause will result in a force directing the timber laterally back toward the user.

A higer blade is harder for timber to ride up on from the side. If timber closes on the blade at the back, its initial movement will be upward before coming at you. In either case, a riving knife or the Triton safety guard will save you a lot of pain.

Mind you all of this is greatly affected by your choice of timber. Can't make chicken soup out of chicken S#%t.

Steve

Hi

Go the cross cut sled. Best addition for the Triton IMO and a pity that Triton never built one with some of the innovations that they have put into other stuff.

Cant be beat!

dazzler