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Thread: Help - WC2000 out of true
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28th May 2011, 09:54 PM #1New Member
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Help - WC2000 out of true
With hindsight I rather stupidly bought a second hand WC2000 from eBay recently. After 4 weeks it arrived this morning.
However instead of dismantling it the seller shipped it made up, including a Makita saw, and the old router top. To add injury he 'boxed' it up in a very thin cardboard box. Consequently when it arrived it's way out of true having been bashed about in transit. With the saw in place and resting at one end it's around 15mm out from one side to the other. The tops won't fit.
I'm going to ask for my cash back, as I think it's buggered and I'm as mad as hell about it. I even offered to go and pick it up.
However if I loosened all the bolts and then using set squares attempted to square it, then tighten it up again, might that bring it back into true?
I'm well aware that it's construction once assembled is supposed to prevent it getting out of true in the first place, so I'm not hopeful.
Regards
Ian
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28th May 2011 09:54 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th May 2011, 03:52 PM #2
G'day Ian. These things are pretty tough, so it is probably OK.
The accuracy of the machine is determined by how accurately (parallel) the saw blade is set with the fence, when the fence is set exactly on zero at each side.
If you set it up perfectly parallel, and you set the saw blade perfectly at 90 degrees to the table top, you are most of the way there.
The only other thing you you may have to 'Tune' is the accuracy of the fence to the table top. The fence has to be exactly 90 degrees to the table top. I adjusted mine by putting shims between the fence and the ruler/arms to get the angle correct.
Before I did that, I used masking tape as shimms to make the table top fit into it's frame when the catches were engaged. From the factory, when the top was latched in place, it could be rattled or moved up & down slightly, which is not good for accuracy.
If you put enough time into it, and assuming nothing is bent, you can make these thing extremely accurate.
I built my kitchen using my 2000, and the joints are perfect, but I did spend many hours tuning the 2000 first.
Probably your best bet would be to leave the frame bolts a little loose, not too much, then insert the top and engage the catches, then tighten the frame bolts evenly all round. Make sure it is on a flat surface before you start though.
Hope this helps.
Cheers.
PhillT
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29th May 2011, 05:13 PM #3
At one stage, while travelling to an on-site job, mine flew out of the back of a ute at speed. I'm sure you can imagine that it was significantly out of true on recovery.
Luckily, the table top itself survived the experience, so it was basically just a case of disassembling the frame, straightening one of the ally channels and then reassembling/tweaking as per usual.
I'll admit to having some alignment problems when converting the table to docking saw mode, (ie. crosscut) but I very, very rarely ever do that anyway. I've tweaked it for accuracy in table-saw mode and it works quite well at that.
They're quite robust little units.
- Andy Mc
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29th May 2011, 05:23 PM #4Retro Phrenologist
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It may NEVER have been set up correctly. I have seen some that are just awful.
As long as nothing is bent, it should be OK.
Take your time setting everything up square, starting with the alloy rails. As someone else said make sure you start on a flat surface.
They can take a fair bit of time and sometimes it is a case of re-doing things a number of times because one adjustment can affect another.
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29th May 2011, 05:25 PM #5
I almost never use mine in cross cut mode now because I got a drop saw, however, I previously tuned mine in that mode by placing shims between the metal and the wood parts of the fence/back-rest whatever it is called. It took some time but to get it right, and it was pretty damned close, but was never going to be as accurate as the table-saw mode.
I haven't chucked mine out of the back of a moving ute as yet, but I agree that they are a tough unit.
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29th May 2011, 06:02 PM #6New Member
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Thanks guys
I didn't have a great deal of time yesterday, (I live in the UK so there's a time lag before I see responses) but I tried a simple loosen everything up put the top on and then tighten up exercise and things seemed a whole better. I haven't cut anything yet but it looked better.
However as soon as I took off the top and tried to it on again it was out again, but only 10mm time. Clearly it's only the top that's holding it roughly true. Really struggled to get it into cross cut mode, needing a rubber mallet to help.
Sadly I don't have space to keep it made up, but from remarks I've read I might not ever have it bang on in any case. I'll have another go tomorrow and perhaps post some photos.
The point about the fence and saw blade being true is perhaps the saving grace. I can build a sled for cross cut work. It was going to be my first 'project in any case. I'm not sure the wife would ever let me loose on a kitchen, but it good to know it's got the capability.
It got the old style router table with it but that looks a really odd thing, just lump of metal Cant even see how to mount the router. Going to buy the newer model a some point. I even bought the extension legs and height winder, so you can understand why I'm cross.
You'll have to help me out with what a ute is. Is it an animal?
I 'll keep you posted.
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29th May 2011, 08:04 PM #7
Ute = SUV in USA terms, a cab with a tray back or well-body behind it, ala Toyota Hilux
This might be a great help for you
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f15/al...01/#post586255
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30th May 2011, 09:53 AM #8New Member
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Phil
Thanks. I saw that post even before I got the WC2000. didn't understand it much but will have another go tomorrow. Perhaps it'll make more sence with the 2000 in front of me.
What troubles me is that I know as soon as the top comes off it swings out of true.
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16th June 2011, 09:05 AM #9Intermediate Member
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You don't say wether you got the official set of instructions with it when you purchased it? They would help greatly in allowing you to follow the correct assembly procedure, albeit in reverse, and identify any problems.
My advice would be dissasemble it all, go back to the start and work from there. It should only take half hour at most and you'd learn a lot. Check things with a straight edge and look for any signs of buckling.
This workcenter can be an absolute nightmare to get setup properly, as i'm sure a lot of people on here will attest to. And if something has been twisted or bent in transit then you will have to identify the part/parts before rectifying the problem. As Avery said, one thing will have a knock on effect and throw something else out. But it can be done, with perseverence, and it can produce some very accurate cuts when set up correctly.
Personally, I couldn't do any woodwork without it as its portability for me is its strongest point. I have nowhere to store it when it's not being used in the winter months here in old blighty so it all gets broken down, taken apart and packed away.
Anyway, if you have anymore problems, post them and i'm sure somebody will have an answer.
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16th June 2011, 09:36 AM #10
If you need a copy of the assembly manual, I've uploaded one for you here. HTH
Ray
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19th June 2011, 01:42 AM #11New Member
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Guys
Thanks again. I've been way for a couple of weeks but have decided to the thing.
Ray, thanks very much for the instructions.
Now if I could find an online copy of the how to videos I'd be a very happy chap
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27th July 2011, 11:58 PM #12waiting to hack wood
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Have a look on you tube I'm sure I've read somewhere they are all on there. Just do a search on Triton.
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