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Thread: Best jig for Triton Workcentre?
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16th February 2011, 02:38 PM #1
Best jig for Triton Workcentre?
So what do you reckon is the best jig for the Triton particularly the Table saw in overhead mode. Which jig do you keep coming back to time and time again? I made up a cross-cut sled and have used that a bit, what about you?
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16th February 2011, 05:44 PM #2
The crosscut sled is the ultimate IMO. Since I built mine for the MK3, I haven't had the saw in docking mode.
Chris
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Life isn't always fair
....................but it's better than the alternative.
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16th February 2011, 05:55 PM #3
Yeah, it's pretty good. I remember spending a whole day with the miter gauge trying to get consistent square cuts. I had just seen the triton dvd and George proclaimed how accurate and square his cuts were but I could never replicate them.
You've never had to go back to docking mode, that's a nice feeling .
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16th February 2011, 06:03 PM #4
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16th February 2011, 06:39 PM #5
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16th February 2011, 10:30 PM #6
2nd best jig?
Okay, maybe I should have written what is the second most useful jig after the cross-cut sled?
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21st February 2011, 01:20 PM #7
Thin ripping jig
I make and use the thin ripping jig fairly often. Basically a bit of ply or other scrap that has parallel sides and I attach a heel to rip thin strips off a wide piece. Fast, easy and accurate, with all bieces coming out the same width.
The other ones are more a range of stop blocks clamped onto sliding tables or other equipment so repeatability is maintained. Thing to be wary of is making it so offcuts are not trapped between spinning blade and a fixed stop.
The other frequently used jig is an offcut that is the same width of the kerf cut by the blade. Use this to space first cut for a housing joint, and a scrap of the timber to be fitted to space the second cut. Gives a tight finnish, without having to measure and mark every time.
Made a few jigs for the superjaws, to help attach and remove bearings from motor armatures. They work well, but the jobs aren't needed often.
FWIW
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21st February 2011, 01:43 PM #8
Thanks, TJ, some good ideas, actually thought about making a thin ripping jig and now I probably will. Thanks for sharing.
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4th May 2011, 05:32 PM #9New Member
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Ok guys, complete novice question here - recently dusted off the 2000 that has been in storage.
Can someone steer me in the direction of a guide to building the much vaunted sled?
TIA
Neal
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4th May 2011, 06:42 PM #10
Hi Neal,
Coincidentally I came across a great video about building one last night. I've linked to it in this post here
Should do the trick.
Nathan.
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5th May 2011, 12:36 AM #11
I suffered too many scraped knuckles from trying to use my Mark 3 Triton in cross-cut mode. I now have a 12" Makita SCMS. Much better!
However, the best thing that the Triton had going for it in crosscut mode for me was using the router sled. It was very good for routing dados.
I still use the Mark 3 Triton as my table saw, however. It has limitations and the circular saw is noisy but it still works for me after many years.
.
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6th May 2011, 12:58 AM #12New Member
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Crosscut Sledge for the Triton
Hi
I'm new around here, and though i've got a 2000 on order, as well as the dust bucket, router top, extension.
The crosscut sledge really interests me and Nathan's link to the wisperer's video was good. However I didn't know the 2000 had twin channels for the sledge runners
So any there tricks to building one for the 2000. Photo's would help.
PS I'm Uk based so don't hold that against me please!
Ian
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6th May 2011, 04:53 PM #13
Hi Ian,
Hopefully this makes sense.....
The runners in the Workcentre do not accept the standard rectangular runners from the usual guides/jigs/etc that are on every other table saw. This is my biggest 'bummer' with the Workcentre.
The grooves also stop before the ends. That is, if you put something in them you cannot slide it off the end.
However, you can still certainly make a sled. Instead of using some hardwood inside the Workcentre grooves (like they do on normal tablesaws), you can use them as runners on the outside edged of the Workcentre.
So instead of slotting inside grooves, they make the sled 'straddle' over the table.
Does this make sense?
Nathan.
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6th May 2011, 05:03 PM #14New Member
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Nathan
That makes perfect sense. I assume then that the table edges are perfectly square and I guess you'd need the table top off the work centre to make the sled in the first place.
Another solution would be to replace the top all together, with something that has proper grooves.
Then again perhaps it's asking too much of the work centre.
Thanks
Ian
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6th May 2011, 06:35 PM #15Senior Member
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I made some hardwood runners which just fit in the slots and I can cut a board up to 280 wide.
I'm about to make a new sled. This time I won't take the runners right to the ends so I get a comfortable 300 plus which is all I really need.
The sled just hangs on the table, on the other side from the fence so I can just switch between the two, which I do many times a day.Cheers, Glen
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