Thread: JOF001 collet won't loosen

I have the quarter inch collet in mine and I have to use a punch to get the bit out of the collet. Not sure if it just due to being almost new or just made that way.
I don't have a reducer like yours. However perhaps if you remove the collet entirely and use a punch to eject the bit then perhaps you would have more luck unscrewing the reducer?

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Originally Posted by DaveVman

I don't have a reducer like yours. However perhaps if you remove the collet entirely and use a punch to eject the bit then perhaps you would have more luck unscrewing the reducer?

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Thanks for the teply.

How would one go about removing the collet entirely?

If you can't loosen the collet, you won't be able to punch the bit out IMO. If someone doesn't come up with a solution, look for "rayintheuk" on this site and send him a PM. He's the Triton guru.
Now I know this is not your case, but there is a warning if you tighten a Triton collet with no bit in the collet, you will not be able to undo it so I'm wondering if this could happen with a smaller than usual OD reducer then overtightening?? I use a 3/8" reducer in my MOF001 and, fingers crossed, haven't had a problem yet. I always use the 1/4" collet for 1/4" bits, never a reducer. For 8mm bits, I bought a 8mm collet assembly from Triton.

Mine is a MOF001. You wind down the plunger all the way and it locks the spindle. Then you can use a single spanner to unscrew the collet entirely from the router. Then I use a nail punch followed by a nail and tap very gently with a little brad hammer to get the bit out with minimal force. The collet looks the same as yours so I assumed it comes off the same way.
I have 2 different collets like Lappa so I don't use a reducer either. If you really can't get the reducer out then perhaps buy a new half inch collet and you'll end up with the same outcome.


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Sorry I don't think I used the correct terminology. I can't actually loosen the nut whatsoever in order to get the collet out.

Im about to go drop it off to trade tools to see if they can get it off. I figure they'll be better equipped. I'll see how they go.

Have you tried heating the collet nut? At worst it might be a case of cutting a v groove in the collet nut and using a nut splitter. Better to have to replace it than risk damaging the thread, especially if the reason it's tight is the nut has cross threaded.

To avoid damage to the router shaft lock get some soft jaws for a vise, put the router bit in the soft jaws and tighten the vise to hold it securely. Now you can lean on the spanner properly to undo the chuck without putting load on the router shaft lock. If you have no regard for the bit just lock that in the vise without the soft jaws.

Yeah, as Chris said, the bit is sacrificed.

I'd make up a socket to fit the nut and attach it to the rattle gun.... raaazzztttt... its amazing.... but it will put a lot of stress on the little lock shaft at the bottom.

Have you tried a penetrating oil yet? WD or machine oil? Give it a light torching to heat it up a bit?

I would have locked the spindle, put the spanner on the nut and gave the end of the spanner a short sharp wack with a steel hammer. Doing this hasn't broken spindles or their locks yet, which to be completely honest I am a tiny bit surprised but it is what it is.

+1 for Kuffy; get a real spanner on the nut and give it a wallop.

If that frightens you though you can remove the entire chuck from the shaft like this:

1. Clamp the router down onto the bench with the chuck overhanging the edge.
2. Wrap a thin strip of cloth about a meter long around the chuck clockwise. Pretend it's an old Victa mower with the knotted string...
3. Firmly pull the cloth strip to start the mowe.. I mean spin the router round as fast as you can. As soon as you have reached your best speed... firmly and decisively engage the spindle lock. Yes, really!
4. This immediately jams the chuck but the heavy motor wants to carry on spinning. The shock breaks the threads free and the chuck just falls off as soon as sufficient threads have been undone.
5. Now you have the assembly free and you can explore further ways to dissassemble it without the router body being in the way.

Your router should have come with two seperate nuts and collets; a 1/2" an a 1/4". This isn't the first time a reducing bush has caused a Triton 1/2" collet to jam; the lesson to be learnt here is to not use a reducing bush. If you don't have the 1/4" collet + nut then I highly recommend you buy one.

Originally Posted by Kuffy

I would have locked the spindle, put the spanner on the nut and gave the end of the spanner a short sharp wack with a steel hammer. Doing this hasn't broken spindles or their locks yet, which to be completely honest I am a tiny bit surprised but it is what it is.

I have done that with a 9" Metabo angle grinder when the retaining nut was jammed on the same as this router and exit one locking tab as it just got bent and twisted with the impact hence why holding the bit and effectively the shaft is a better way to go.

Once again, thanks for the replies.

I did go out and get a big ar*e proper spanner and gave it whacks with a hammer but nothing would budge. Good news is I just picked it up from Trade Tools and the gent there was able to get it off for me. The bad news is I'm not sure how so I can't share sorry.

I got my router a few years ago and I've never needed to use a 1/4inch bit until now so I'll admit I didn't even realise the router came with it's own 1/4 inch collet and that's why I used the reducer. I've gone looking through the original box just now though and there it is so I'll be using that instead of the reducer from now on.

Thanks for your help. For anybody reading this in future - don't use a reducer, use the 1/4 inch collet.

Hi when you put the router bit into the chuck did you have it all the way down,I found that when I did it was harder to undo,saw a tip that suggested that having the bit all the way in was not desireable
Two things were suggested 1,put a small amount of silicone into the bottom of the collet this makes a bit of a cushion
2,put rubber "o"rings around the bit shaft so it doesn't bottom out
I do and not had a problem but I never had an issue like you have

No it wasn't all the way down. I've known not to do that in general. Not sure what went wrong really.