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Thread: Mitring plywood

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Mitring plywood

    Hi Everyone,

    First time post, long time lurker

    I have a bevel ripping guide and a router table and need to cut some mitre joints on a 17mm plywood board.

    Whats a best method of doing this? Using the vee groove bit? or using the bevel ripping guide on the triton wc? Any tips on using either methods?

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Sorry, I meant a bevel cut along the board.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Personally, if the saw can do it, I'd pull the saw from the wc and set it up to rip at 45 degrees freehand (using the saw's own guide). This way you are moving the saw through the job and not the job through the saw.....so the plywood can be clamped to a bench and be nice and stable which it may not be if you are wrestling with it over the wc.

    Ditto with the router....

  5. #4
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    Default

    If you are not already familiar with manoevering big bits of timber over the Bevel Ripping Guide, then I'd recommend SBD's post about using the/a saw with a guide clamped to the sheet. If you have the router table top, then you could use a 45 degree bit in the router to put the final 45 on a precut piece.

    I have found if you are not totally in control with the BRG, then the timber can rock a bit and you get a far from perfect edge, and the taller the piece the more likely it is to happen.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Personally...

    I rip the timber to width, and then put it through the router table with a big chamfer bit. The work stays flat (well as flat as a RTA300 can get), and your back in control. I know is double handling, but its safe and accurate.

    Dohboy

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks everyone.

    I know it can be done on the bevel ripping guide (seen it done by a demo guy) but I think I need a lot more practice before I can get anywhere near the consistency I require.

    I think I'll go get a chamfer bit and give it a go. Also having the mini-extension table, I guess I could easily mitre long pieces that way.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dohboy View Post
    Personally...

    I rip the timber to width, and then put it through the router table with a big chamfer bit. The work stays flat (well as flat as a RTA300 can get), and your back in control. I know is double handling, but its safe and accurate.

    Dohboy
    Ditto here. I had to build 3 box columns for a kitchen breakfast bar, about 10 inches square from 18mm MDF. Ripped the MDF to width on the WC, then used 45 deg bevel bit to bevel the edges to 45 deg on the router table. Perfect square columns resulted, found I had absolute control over the work this way. Final box column then had 3 vertical flutes routed in each side using handheld router.

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