Thread: Modern routers in MK3 new series

Originally Posted by Chrism3

30mm will be plenty - even 25mm will do.

Thanks for that Chris. I take it that I just need to get the four cup head bolts for securing it to the base?

Originally Posted by Skilsaw

Thanks for that Chris. I take it that I just need to get the four cup head bolts for securing it to the base?

Yes. the originals used nylock nuts

Originally Posted by Chrism3

Yes. the originals used nylock nuts

Good as gold Chris I will get some nylock nuts to go with the bolts

All clamped in big thanks to @Chrism3 for sending those RTA300 clamps

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I am sure though that something is missing from this fence
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Can you give us a pic of the entire fence and top?

If you are talking about the large gap around the router bit, you screw a wooden sacrificial fence on to the metal fence that either comes up to the bit in 2 halves or a one piece fence and cut into the wood with the bit if you want a zero clearance.

Originally Posted by Chrism3

Can you give us a pic of the entire fence and top?

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What treecycle said. Instructions here for a slightly later model, but fence is similar.
http://www.tocact.org.au/manuals/Rou...2000-Jul95.pdf
regards
Chris

Even though mine is not a Triton anymore this is the same as what you need. 2 halves that can be set close to the bit or a solid piece. Doesn't have to be fancy as long as the timber is straight. My normal ones are just made from MDF but I have coated them to prevent moisture making it swell over time. The other one is just a piece of Pine which gets holes cut in it to suit a number of bits and if it gets too scraggy just throw it away and make another one.

Router-table-fence_1.jpg Router-table-fence_2.jpg Router-table-fence_3.jpg

Thanks for that Chris and Treecycle I happen to have some spare timber I can use for that plus I am also nutting out an idea to make a router lift I was initially thinking about a scissor jack to use for raising and lowering but looked at that junky ryobi copy of a workmate and going to take one of the assemblies off it that opens and closes the top of it and see if I can set that up to use to raise and lower the router. I have also taken the plastic plate off the bottom of the router base to give make up for the lost height from the clamps.

Can't you re position the clamps so that you don't loose any of the plunge capacity. The original clamps didn't cause this problem so I wouldn't have thought they would take a backward step with the new style.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Can't you re position the clamps so that you don't loose any of the plunge capacity. The original clamps didn't cause this problem so I wouldn't have thought they would take a backward step with the new style.

No unfortunately because that is the only way I can get this router to fit in the clamps any other way and there is nothing for the clamps to grab onto due to the width of the base.