Thread: Mod'ing broken router table

Are you refering to the outer bearing track on the RTA300?

Without this track in place, you cannot use the sliding MDF plate, Biscuit Joiner or Finger joiner. The effective surface area of the table top would also be greatly diminished.

Without the sliding MDF plate, you would be unable to use the mitre guage for the Router table.

If none of these issues affect your wood work, it sounds like you mainly do edge work, or work on smaller pieces. This being the case, you may not notice the loss.

Structural integrity of the table without the bearing channel is outside my comfort zone.

Steve

Originally Posted by TritonJapan

Are you refering to the outer bearing track on the RTA300?

Without this track in place, you cannot use the sliding MDF plate, Biscuit Joiner or Finger joiner. The effective surface area of the table top would also be greatly diminished.

Without the sliding MDF plate, you would be unable to use the mitre guage for the Router table.

If none of these issues affect your wood work, it sounds like you mainly do edge work, or work on smaller pieces. This being the case, you may not notice the loss.

Structural integrity of the table without the bearing channel is outside my comfort zone.

Yep, that outer bearing track's the dooverhickey I jiggered.

My biscuit joiner won't fit the table; it's an earlier model and has been relegated as a dust-collector to the top shelf. I don't finger joint as I prefer hand-sawn dovetails and I don't use the mitre. Not from lack of need but because I've found it's just not accurate enough when I do need it. This is part of the reason I'm thinking of making mods.

You're right about the remaining table surface being too small, but I found the table too small even when it was still attached! This is partly why I'm considering making an entirely new tabletop to replace the original and not just bolt over it, as in the mod on the Triton website. I'm hoping to use the existing base assembly, wanting to retain its' portability, but with at least an extra 6" overhang or so on all sides.

I'm not saying I dislike the original table, mind, more that I've outgrown it. It has served me faithfully on many a job and I think it'll still serve me well when xferred over to the workcentre 2000 for crosscutting rabbets, etc.

Just out of curiosity, will you have a hole in the new table so it can take your old biscuit joiner?

I really liked the old swivel type. I had the sort that I had to drill my own hole in the router table to hold it in place with a bolt and a wing nut. Fiddly to get on, but great to use.

Originally Posted by TritonJapan

Just out of curiosity, will you have a hole in the new table so it can take your old biscuit joiner?

I don't think so... since the biscuit joiner has been shelved I've become quite adept at doing without it. Actually, I've worn out a couple of the router-bits since then!

For picture frames and similar 45o joints I usually use dowels instead, bur I use biscuits quite extensively when making faceplates, etc. for cabinet carcases. I dry-fit/clamp the pieces to be biscuitted in place to mark out the joints, then 'tis a simple matter to rout the joints by eye on the table, centering the mark on the bit and feeding towards the fence, which controls the depth of cut of course.

No need for the jig, it'd only slow me down most of the time, but the router bit I wouldn't want to do without!

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

What I'd like to know is if anyone has had any success with modifications to raise a plunge-router, to enable easy bit-changes. Preferably with improvements on dust extraction. I've seen both topics mentioned a few times in various threads but nothing about them actually being done. Not on the same unit, anyway.

Anyone got any hints/plans/URLs to a site where it has been done?

Yeah, a few have, and posted. Search posts by Sturdee - he's definitely done it.

Also, check out the Router Raizer http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm

Originally Posted by stuart_lees

Yeah, a few have, and posted. Search posts by Sturdee - he's definitely done it.

Also, check out the Router Raizer

Thanks Stuart, but the raizer (and ilk) isn't quite what I had in mind. I don't want something to adjust the router height but to lift the entire router inc. the base. On my unit it's the only practical way to get at the collet.

As for dust extraction, well... I don't seem to have much luck with searches. And I did search before posting. The best I've seen was a pic of a hose going under the table, presumably to a router with an existing dust port. That's not even remotely applicable to my beasty, so it looks like I'll have to muddle on and find my own way around the problem. [shrug]

One good thing; at least I managed to stumble upon Sturdees' dust-bucket. I'd seen references but never the how-to's...

As said - see Sturdee - his solution does lift the entire router.