Router table mod

**minvec** · 15th January 2007, 07:31 AM

Hi Everyone.

After the success (after some help) of the triton dust bucket cyclone mod, (Still can't believe how well it works by the way) and the cross-cut sled (where would i be without it?), I've decided to mod the router table. I have been able to get fairly decent results but like others, I have been annoyed more than once by the flexible plastic insert creating slight differences in height.

I have been reading the router mod upgrade, and one thing I have noticed in the pics is that the measurement markings on the table is covered up by the aluminium. How do you guys get around this?

**Landseka** · 15th January 2007, 09:16 AM

I never used the markings on my table before I did the mod so saw no issues with covering them up.

I have not missed them since.

The benefits far outweigh any percieved disadvantages so "go for it". You will not be sorry.

Regards

Neil.

**minvec** · 15th January 2007, 09:25 AM

Hi Neil,
If you don't use the fence markings, how do you line up the fence so that its parallel? Or if you want an edge rebate of say 10mm, how do you quickly set this up without the marking? It would be great to do without it and go ahead with the mod, but at the moment (probably because I don't know better) I use the markings all the time.

**I_wanna_Shed** · 15th January 2007, 10:29 AM

Before I made my aluminiun table top (here), I wondered about the markings. I thought that I could just widen the slots in the aluminium to show the markings. I thought about how often I had used the markings so far, and couldn't really think of a time when I depended on them.

If you are using the fence as a guide, it doesn't have to be 'parallel' with the table. It will be parallel with the bit no matter what angle it is. The only time it would have to be parallel with the table is if you are using it as guide with the sliding MDF board.

If I want a rebate of say 10mm, I measure out the fence with a rule, and make a test cut, and adjust the fence as necessary (even when I had the markings I would make test cuts, it would never be spot on first go I found).

The aluminium table top is a great mod.

**minvec** · 15th January 2007, 11:17 AM

Hmm.. I use the sliding guide quite alot and I would like to keep the markings as I have got it close to perfect. I like the idea of just setting the fence and rebating away.

I had a look at perhaps making a second slot for the measurement readings. Smaller than the main slot (Only need the mm measurements). Has anyone done this with success?

**I_wanna_Shed** · 15th January 2007, 11:24 AM

Originally Posted by minvec

I had a look at perhaps making a second slot for the measurement readings. Smaller than the main slot (Only need the mm measurements). Has anyone done this with success?

Should be easy to do.. just cut 4 slots instead of 2. The only catch is because the arrows will be elevated above the markings, it may be harder to line them up exactly.

**Stuart** · 15th January 2007, 02:03 PM

Originally Posted by minvec

Hi Neil,
If you don't use the fence markings, how do you line up the fence so that its parallel? Or if you want an edge rebate of say 10mm, how do you quickly set this up without the marking? It would be great to do without it and go ahead with the mod, but at the moment (probably because I don't know better) I use the markings all the time.

I NEVER use the markings - who cares if the fence is parallel to a point cutter?

I measure the distance from the edge of the carbide tip to the fence. When it says 10mm, I know it will cut 10mm.

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