Thread: Triton MK3 Orig. slide chassis

I still have my old MK3 and use it occasionally and agree that the original saw chassis is not the strongest, but I've only ever used it in the TS mode so it isn't relevant how strong the chassis is.

Had a 91/4 " Makita before upgrading to a Triton saw but in both cases never needed the stabilising bracket.


Peter.

If you can , try getting the chassis upgrade for your Mk3 . It was the best thing I did , plus you can also get the height winding kit for it . It made a world of difference for me . Then when I upgraded to the WCA2000 , I just put the upgraded chassis straight on to it .The chassis that came with the WCA2000 is now on my old Mk3 , & stays set up as a cross cut saw .

Thank you all for the prompt replies.

Peter, as I used the saw in the docking (cross-cut) mode recently, the motor sag gave me poor results; is Cam's suggestion best considering I want to use the saw in both modes for some upcoming projects? <O

Sorry another question just came to mind, as I only use the saw with the blade at ninety degrees, should I drill-out the rivet (Makita) of the height adjusting slide and permanently fix it with a nut and bolt? My saw seems to have a fair amount of movement in that joint. Ian

Ian not sure excalty which rivot you refer to, but have you tried to squash the rivet a bit to make it tighter? or replacing with a bolt and nyloc nut would help to remove slack and still allow some movement.

A chassis upgrade and a height winder will set you back about $100, whcih may be better put towards a 2nd hand WC2000, depending on you budget.

Thanks, Brian. Your suggestion re bolt and nyloc is exactly what I had in mind. Better your second suggestion, I think. Thanks once again, Ian.

I had a good look at the original MK3 saw chassis today and I agree that it is not as strong as the upgraded type WC2000 chassis.

If you don't want to go to the expense of the upgrade, and you seem to be handy, then you can fix the saw chassis by bolting onto the bottom a thin steel plate with a slot cut out for the saw blade.

The steel road speed signs are the right type, not too thick yet allowing for the bolt head to be countersunk and it's still strong enough. You can usually get discarded ones for nothing from the local council depot as it is cheaper for them to replace defaced ones than to fix them.


Peter.

Thank you so much, Peter. A great suggestion and one I can try quickly as our access road is now under reconstruction. Means there'll be new road signs too, so when the stop/go guy halts me in the morning I'll see what I can fiddle.

You know, all you guy's astound me with your almost instant assistance and helpful advice. Isn't it great to know the Australian 'Mateship' attitude is still alive and well?

Thanks everyone... Ian