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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default New Triton owner - WC2000 with saw, bevel edge, depth adjustment and router table

    Hi all, emerging from lurking as I have now got what I feel is a complete workshop for a beginner. This comes after I picked up a Triton Work Center 2000 and a bunch of stuff at a great price. It’s all in really good shape and I’m yet to lay it all out, blow the dust off it and learn how everything goes together.

    i got a very brief run through when we pulled it all down for transporting and I’m pretty excited as I’ve been without any kind of table saw (I have a miter push saw and an old circular saw) and only a hand held plunge router.

    so I have the workstand with the side bevel attachment, the triton 235mm saw, blade depth and angle adjustment, dust bag and various bits and pieces, the router table top and a hitachi router with a full set of bits.

    the router table will have to be fitted to the stand as it does not have its own legs.

    im downloading manuals and reading widely about this and it has become my preferred option due to space and need to move things around constantly in my workshop.

    I expect I’ll have many questions but I thought I’d post to say gday and see if anyone had any advice for initial setup and tuning of these as I know they are notorious for requiring a good setup to perform properly.

    cheers,
    will

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    828

    Default

    Hi Will,

    Given that its your first saw having precise accuracy is probably the least of your issues. Plus being a portable saw every time you move it, it'll need a check to make sure its still cutting square.

    If you don't have a dial indicator, just do a test cut and check it for square and adjust if required.

    Make sure you kick all the legs out fully otherwise you'll introduce flex into the table which does affect your accuracy, and finally make sure you check fence to blade distance both front and back. Due to the design of the fence it makes it possible to cut tapers obviously not something you want if you're trying to square something up.

    Also get yourself a dust extractor, the "dust bag" is not a dust extractor. I'd recommend getting atleast a 2hp unit.

    Set it up first and have a test run, they are not that difficult to setup getting accurate repeatable cuts is the hard thing. The other biggest variable is yourself as getting accurate cuts requires more than accurate tool setup.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    ...
    Posts
    7,955

    Default

    When I had a Triton MK3, predecessor to the WC 2000, I used this method to ensure that I had an accurate cut. Hope it helps.

    Peter.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Thanks guys!

    I’ve had a successful session today getting everything that came with it to make sense fitting together.

    I’ve pulled down all the manuals and schematics and everything seems to be well put together by the PO and after a thorough blow it with the compressor and brush down it has come up almost like new.

    IMG_0702.jpg

    IMG_0706.JPG

    IMG_0712.JPG

    This plate will fit my jigsaw too so that’s a bonus!

    IMG_0710.jpg

    The alignment of the saw to the slots and the fence zero point is bang on what the manual says - blade scraping the fence at 0,0 front,back.

    The cutting depth is awesome compared to what I’ve had before.

    As for dust extraction - I hear you - I have a shop vac but it will need upgrading I due course.

    Anything you guys can see obviously missing.

    Going to make my first cuts soon.

    There are a few things I’m not clear on.

    Some might apply to the router and jigsaw table unit I have and there may be some minor bits missing.

    First off could anyone identify this piece? It’s a large steel bracket about the size of the length of the table...

    IMG_0707.JPG

    It has windows with pointers that look like the indicators in the router fences.

    And what is the use of these bevel fences - stop blocks on the outfeed...

    IMG_0705.JPG

    Cheers!




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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    828

    Default

    To use the jigsaw more effectively you'll need the jig saw arm, it stablises the blade and reduces the liklihood of snapping blades.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Triton-AJA3.../dp/B002Z138EM

    The steel bar kinda looks like the fence for when you use the saw upside down (Cross cut mode) and acts as a stop for your lumber. You'll normally have a sacrificial board attached to it so when you cut through it it'll reduce blowout similar to a zero clearance fence.

    Triton 2000 Series Workcentre

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Wow! Great link thanks man.

    That metal piece is definitely the cross cut fence - minus the face and I can see from the pics it mounts to the table on the lower shelf. So much choice!

    I pretty much got everything working just now and made some very satisfactory cuts - square and clean and within 1mm of my marks and the fence guides - really very impressed.

    Admittedly I was only ripping up common 12mm ply but with the vac attached and proper eye, ear and foot protection I was away!

    I cut some ply, shaped a push shoe on the scroll, switched the saw out for the router and did a couple of bevels to test the adjusting and swapping out bits for the hitachi and finished with a quick sand.

    IMG_0726.JPG

    Very happy chappie.

    A lot of learning to do now but I think at last I have enough hardware to start really tackling some projects.

    IMG_0719.JPG

    IMG_0721.JPG

    Final question, the fence seems to be mounted on the left - I checked on manuals and in videos - is it usual for the fence to be on the left? The only tables I’ve used had the fence and adjustment settings all from the right.
    For some reason it seemed strange...
    Even if it can be fitted from the right which I expect it can there would be less table available wouldn’t there?

    Cheers
    Will


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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    From memory the fence can be fitted from both sides

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,296

    Default

    The fence can be fitted on the right for exceptional circumstances, but your scales won't read correctly.
    Left is normal.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Posts
    1,268

    Default

    Look very carefully on each end of your table top, there you will find 0.5mm indexing marks. When you use the fence, by careful usage, you can and will be able to do a cut within a 0.5mm tolerance factor. If you look end on, that is you squat down at the end of the bench where the power switch is, you will see two U shaped markers, along with lines indicating the 0.5mm marks; they are on both ends.

    My Triton 2000 work centre is a wonderful machine, not as good as a better table saw, not as good as a contractor saw, but, they are wonderfully easy to use, transport and add accessories too. If you ever find the maxi sliding table available for a reasonable price, then acquire it. Having the maxi sliding table will allow you to saw material that is 2400mm x 1200mm in one piece. I will agree that when re-sawing that sized material, the Triton isn't as good as a table saw with a sliding table, but it isn't that bad either.

    Attached are two pictures using the Maxi-Sliding Table accessory fitted to my Triton Work Centre. The first shows the material being cut to an exact size, then the corners are trimmed with a 45º cut to a predetermined length with the intention that this material will fit exactly into a special window frame frame until new glass is cut; it was a perfect fit.

    With time and practice you will possibly be able to do many things with a Triton work centre, but as with all things, you must be accurate. The Triton work centre isn't as flash as current stuff available, but it is far better if used well than many people realise.

    My unit has dust extraction on the top and bottom, in the bottom part, I have constructed a catch box, which, when I saw, I pretty much have nothing to very minimal dust around the workshop. If you look carefully in one of the pictures you can see some sawdust on the table top; which is all of the visible dust that was not caught by the system from those eight cuts. This does come at a cost, I can no longer easily convert the Triton to a cross cut saw, instead, I use a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw (SCMS). I use my SCMS for cutting lengths of planks and pretty much anything up to around 300mm; I can do 340mm but...

    The really best part about the maxi sliding table, is that I hang it up on the wall in three pieces when I'm finished, completely out of the way. One can and I have, taken the whole lot to an onsite job as easy as anything.

    Mick.


    Maxi_001.jpg Maxi_002.jpg

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,402

    Default

    When the unit was new it would have come with two silver stickers with an arrow on each of them; these were stuck onto the sides to act as markers for the fence scales to allow the fence to be fitted on the right hand side. If you truly feel a need to have the fence on the right then you can scribe new marks onto the sides to line up with the scales at zero; but to be frank thousands and thousands of users got used to the fence being on the left; and so will you!

    Tonzeyd's reference to the jigsaw stabilising arm won't work for you as you have an early series 2000 router table; this short-lived table was superseded by the RTA300 router table and the AJA300 jigsaw attachment only fits that unit. It doesn't actually do much anyway other then provide a sort of safety guard above the blade and provide overhead dust extraction. It's all plastic construction so doesn't add much rigidity to the set up.

    As for dust extraction; well... you won't achieve any. People have managed to completely box in the saw and run a DE to it but you lose the ability to swap to overhead mode. Even fitting the dust bag collection system is a PITA because again you can't swap modes; or use it with the router table. Unfortunately this machine works best used outdoors with the prevailing wind taking the dust away from you. If you use it indoors; wear a quality dust mask all the time you are working, wear coveralls that can be hosed down before being brought into the laundry and don't allow anybody else in the shed all day while you're working.

    My set up is this; I have one permanently set up in normal mode with the dust bag set up and chip collector bucket; all hooked up to a shop vac (with a 2" cyclone as a future project). I have a second unit permanently set up in overhead mode with a saw and a router, this gets wheeled outside for the rare occasions I need to use it. And many pairs of overalls to hand with a couple of decent canister filter dust masks and a spare washing machine.

    If you feel like splashing out buy the blade height winder kit; this allows you to dial in cuts above the table using a little winder handle. You loose about 5mm depth of cut is the only drawback but by crickey it's the best add-on bit for the Triton ever made.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia, Sydney
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Thanks guys. It’s been a good few days making some jigs and getting used to the table, switching the router and saw in and out a dozen or more times.

    I’m very pleased with it and the accuracy has impressed me when I’ve taken my time to dial everything in.

    The dust is a problem and I’ve been using a mask.

    It does have the height adjustment which has been magic with my newly made sled and dado jig!

    Will


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  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Ross, Tasmania
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Somewhere on here there is a thread with the stick on pointers you can print out. I've been looking but can't for the life of me find it. Someone else might have an idea where they are located.

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